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2015 Dodge 1500 Laramie Ecodiesel Radio Install

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BlueDevil

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Here are some pictures of the radio install I completed yesterday on a 2015 Dodge 1500 Laramie Ecodiesel.

I installed an Icom F5021 VHF Mobile Radio, 2-Piece Equipment Mounting Bracket, Larsen 1/4 Wave VHF NMO Antenna, Larsen NMO Mount with 25' Coax and PL259 Connector, and Chargeguard CG12D Controller.












 
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mmckenna

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Nicely done.
Proper antenna installation really makes a big difference. Taking the time to actually install the radio into the truck really makes it look good. Wiring all well hidden, etc. I love installs where the radio doesn't demand to be the center of attention. Good looking install.
 

BlueDevil

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Nicely done.
Proper antenna installation really makes a big difference. Taking the time to actually install the radio into the truck really makes it look good. Wiring all well hidden, etc. I love installs where the radio doesn't demand to be the center of attention. Good looking install.
Thanks! It was a custom install for a client so I wanted everything to look clean and professional. Being a brand new vehicle my objective was to make the radio look like it was meant to be or in its proper place. I didn't want it to be an attention grabber or stick out like a sore thumb. It helps to take your time and do it right the first time.
 

mmckenna

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Mission accomplished. I do the same thing, I want the radio there, but it should be low key.

On a side note:
I usually avoid making any negative comments about mobile installs I see posted on rr.com. I know many are new to the hobby, so there's a learning curve. What really makes my skin crawl is some of the installs done by people who claim to have lots of experience, or those done by amateur radio operators that should know better. I've seen some crappy installs in my day and I see what happens when corners get cut. Radios placed haphazardly on the dash board, undressed cabling, "compromise" antenna installs, etc. all drive me nuts.
Seeing a nice install like this is always a breath of fresh air on this site.
 

BlueDevil

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Agreed. That is one of the reasons for my post of pictures. I have learned a lot from the different posts and members of RR over the years and I would like to give something back. Hopefully this helps spark ideas and thought by other members on this site. I enjoy feedback and learning opportunities. I still have a lot to learn and wouldn't say I am a radio professional but it doesn't mean I can't strive to be one or at least act like one.
 
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I've been finding application for hand held control heads in a lot of newer vehciles. That install may be an option for my father in his 2014 but time will tell (if he let's me install a radio in his pickup).

My vehicles are all HHCH installs but I know some people want more traditional installs.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
 

AggieCon

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Wow! That is a great install. Looks like it could have arrived that way from the factory.

Do you use a regular metal hole saw to cut through the roof? What's the trick? High RPM and only minimal downward force? Also, do you have to remove the headliner? Or did you run the wires straight back, hence why you removed the third brake light?

I just have a portable scanner at the moment, but I want to mount an antenna and also get into ham. I want it to look right (i.e. it won't be noticed at all...). I've never removed a headliner, but I'm comfortable removing flooring and trim over the wire channels along the side of the vehicle. I have a F150, by the way.

You seem like you sure know what you are doing. I should appreciate any advice you might share.
 

BlueDevil

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Wow! That is a great install. Looks like it could have arrived that way from the factory.

Do you use a regular metal hole saw to cut through the roof? What's the trick? High RPM and only minimal downward force? Also, do you have to remove the headliner? Or did you run the wires straight back, hence why you removed the third brake light?

I just have a portable scanner at the moment, but I want to mount an antenna and also get into ham. I want it to look right (i.e. it won't be noticed at all...). I've never removed a headliner, but I'm comfortable removing flooring and trim over the wire channels along the side of the vehicle. I have a F150, by the way.

You seem like you sure know what you are doing. I should appreciate any advice you might share.


I used a hole saw specific for drilling NMO mounts. You see a picture of a similar version here:


There are several versions of this type of hole saw from various manufactures. In my mind this tool is a must for a good NMO mount installation. I removed the break light to help get a visual of what I could lotus tally be drilling into. I also partially removed and loosened the head liner just enough that I could see back to where I was prepare to drill the whole. I fed the coax down the "B" post and then under the carpet below the driver seat and into the center console. I like to try and keep my power supply and coax coming from different directions whenever possible instead of zip tied together.

If you can operate a screw driver and remove trim then working with the headliner shouldn't be a challenge. Only remove what is necessary to get the job done. Coax can be tucked away behind trim and can be feed through some fairly tight places.

Patience and taking your time is the key to having a nice looking and functioning professional install. If you don't have time to do it right the first time then just don't do it. Or pay someone else to do it right.

I hope that helps!
 

AggieCon

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Brandon, thank you so much for the tips. That hole saw looks a lot better than what I had in mind (punching through the headliner once the metal was finally cut). Does the outer stop ring scratch up the paint/finish bad?

This will be very useful information for me; I really appreciate it.
 

mmckenna

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Does the outer stop ring scratch up the paint/finish bad?
It doesn't unless you aren't paying attention or using too much pressure. Even it if did, it would be under the mount when it gets installed. The outer ring of the NMO mount would cover it up.

Most of us lay down a couple layers of masking tape before drilling. It helps protect the paint, makes it easier to make "drill here" marks, and makes cleaning up a bit easier.

These really are about as fool proof as you can get. Making sure you know what's on the other side is what's important.
 
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It doesn't unless you aren't paying attention or using too much pressure. Even it if did, it would be under the mount when it gets installed. The outer ring of the NMO mount would cover it up.

Most of us lay down a couple layers of masking tape before drilling. It helps protect the paint, makes it easier to make "drill here" marks, and makes cleaning up a bit easier.

These really are about as fool proof as you can get. Making sure you know what's on the other side is what's important.
Drilling at an angle though will reduce blade life though.
 

madrabbitt

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really impressed.

Does the sunroof not interfere with the mount at all?

That era of dodge/ram pickups is what i have my eye on to replace my silverado, and my better half has suggested more then once that a sunroof may be a nice option to look for, and the trim package that i want is usually equipped with the sunroof.
 

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I pulled the headliner down to make sure I had enough clearance so that the NMO mount would not interfere with the sunroof. Otherwise I would have centered up the NMO mount in the middle of the cab.
 
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