2018 Ford F150

[KG5HHS]

Hello everyone,
I am the proud new owner of a 2018 Ford F150 XL (with the STX appearance package). I originally planned to take the console out and replace it with a Havis Console. However, I have decided against that. I have decided to go with a handheld control head for radio and light/siren controller. I currently have an XTL2500 VHF radio with the 05 control head. As far as I know, there is no "easy" way to convert that to work with a HHCH.
I am looking into an Astro Spectra VHF with a W3 control head (Model Number: T04KLH9PW3AN) to get me by for now, plus I will be able to put this in another one of my vehicles that doesn't leave my home county once I find my preferred radio. The county that I live in does not use encryption. however, the county that I work for uses ADP encryption (I am authorized to use it as well). My preferred radio would be an XTL5000 VHF that can do ADP Encryption with a W3 or O3 HHCH. I have looked online and have been unsuccessful. Although I'm sure one will surface at some point.
If there are other options as far as radio that can support HHCH and ADP encryption, can someone please make me aware? Also, I am not sure what handheld control unit I will be using for my lights/sirens. I plan on mounting both units under the back seat, I may explore behind the back seat to see if there is room back there. the last vehicle of mine that I worked on (Which was the newest at the time) was a 2010 Ford Explorer, So I'll need lots of direction on how to complete this install. Attached are some pictures of the console so hopefully someone can give a suggestions on how to run cables and such. There is a little cubby area on the lower side of the console where the HHCH could be stored.

 

[mmckenna]

You didn't say what kind of cab it was...
Assuming it's an extended cab or crew cab, there is space behind the rear seats. Releasing the seat backs takes some effort, but there's tutorials on line about how to do it. Basically put the seat pan up, reach behind the seat and find the latch, there's a part on there you have to pull up.
Anyway, it's pretty easy to mount radios back there. I did that on my 2011 F150 and my 2018 F350 crew cab trucks. My work truck, a 2017 F350 is a regular cab, but still plenty of room behind the seat to make it work. Interiors are remarkably similar.
The radios will need to stand on edge or on end to fit well, but that's not hard to do. I put a length of uni-strut between two of the seat bolts on my 2011 and fabricated a bracket to mount the radio to. Worked very well. I cut a piece of 3/4 ply to mount on the uni-strut to hold the fuse block, ground block, Lind timer and the other stuff. I had two RF decks mounted back there with remote heads on the lower part of the dash.

To get power to the radios, it's pretty easy. I ran a 6 gauge cable off the battery to a 60 amp circuit breaker. From the circuit breaker I fed the #6 down to the grommet on the firewall, passenger side. There is a nipple on there that you can cut off on the engine side. It's just big enough to get the #6 through into the cab. From there, I ran the #6 down under the door sill plates. They just pull up and snap back down. Plenty of room for the wire and the remote cables. From there I ran to the back of the cab to the plywood and onto a fuse block. Made adding radios really easy. Ground was picked up off the seat mounting bolt and run to a separate distribution block.

Not sure about the 1/2 tons, but on the 3/4 and 1 tons, theres an upfitter connection on the passenger side front seat foot well that has a 5 amp ignition switched connection. I used that to drive the Lind timer and used that to control the radio ignition sense circuits. You can check the Ford Fleet upfitter guides. Google search should find it easily.

Routing coax up the back of the cab is pretty easy too. I pulled the trim off and made sure I got it well secured and routed around the air bag module.

 

[KB4MSZ]

I put a length of uni-strut between two of the seat bolts on my 2011 and fabricated a bracket to mount the radio to.

Now there is an idea. Cool, thanks

 

[KG5HHS]

Awesome mounting idea, thank you!

 

[KG5HHS]

I'm getting closer to getting the Astro radio. Just a few things to verify. Other than the radio, hhch and power cable, I will also need the Extension Y cable (HKN6096B) and Speaker/Ignition sense cable (3080091M01)? Is there any other extension/accessory cable? I'm not able to find the one listed anywhere!

 

[mmckenna]

This is my current F-350. The 2011 F-150 was a similar install, but I mounted 3 lengths of uni-strut going across all 4 seat bolts.

The current install is wired for several radios, but I only have a single Moto CDM-1550 VHF installed.

The work regular cab F-350 has a Kenwood NX-700 and an NX-900 installed:

The work F-350 has a service body with a 60 amp feed to it for radio charger, inverter and some cigarette lighter outlets. The circuit breakers are mounted on the firewall, passenger side. The radio power feed runs into the cab using the previously mentioned path in the grommet. The feed to the service body runs down and under the cab.

If you are feeling adventurous, there's a lot of room behind the AM/FM radio to mount a speaker. This is in my personal truck. There are existing threaded studs (6mm x 1) that you can use to mount the bracket to. Works really well, plenty loud enough, and no one knows it's there.

Work F-350 again. No center console, so easy to hang the radios under the dash:

 

[mmckenna]

Personal F-350. No center console, either. CDM-1550 head mounted under the dash.

 

[KB4MSZ]

Great. That's just great. Now I can't post my wimpy installation pictures

 

[KG5HHS]

You didn't say what kind of cab it was...

It is a crew cab.

 

[KG5HHS]

I appreciate all the pictures as well. They are giving me several Ideas! I am still deciding on siren/light controllers and a radio. Since this thread is more for the installation process, I have created a new thread for my radio questions. Once I find a controller and a radio, I will be hitting this thread hard and heavy. Thanks again for everyone who has already posted.

 

[mmckenna]

It is a crew cab.

OK, then what I did pretty much applies.
Releasing the rear seat is pretty easy once you see it done. Lots of room back there if you get creative. I mounted my radios heatsink up. Not that I talk a lot, but it does make it easier to get to antenna and power connections.

 

[jeepsandradios]

As reference to date i have not found any stub wires for ignition on my 2017 or 2018 F150. My work truck is the 2018 crew cab and went thru all the ford documentation and still searching. Also if you have the plow prep (as my 2017) does most places list the orange/red wire behind the light switch, however that works via the plow mode switch and not true ignition. I actually use that for some warning lights as it saved me a switch.

Once it warms up i need to dig more into this as its getting old turning 4 control heads on and off.

Also if not seeing the head, the center console will actually hold 2 XTL dashmount radios. MY 2017 has the same console you show and thats my "temporary" location thats 2 years in now. I need to yank them out and get my APX installed once the weather is better. My plan is the O7 head in the cubby at the front of the console so i can close it and it will disappear.

 

[mmckenna]

This is for the F150 "responder" model. Likely you don't have that, but there's still some very useful information in it:
https://madocumentupload.marketinga...9f356667f35fe7729b1e509059225d509364&v5=False

There are some sections that contain info on Delayed Accessory Power, which your civilian model F150 will have.
There's some -really- good sections on proper wiring methods, how to ground, accessing power, etc. Really worth the time to read if you have one of these trucks.

 

[KG5HHS]

Thank you all for replying and all the information. I have decided to go with installing the Motorola XTVA for a radio solution and most likely the Feniex Typhoon handheld light/siren controller. I am also thinking about installing the Uniden CMX760 handheld CB via diplexer or triplexer if I can find the right antenna solution. I am wanting to mount all of this behind the seat (I will install the rear seat release kit), but I haven't measured to see how much space is back there. I think the thickest piece of equipment will be the xtva which is measured at 2.80inches via the spec sheet. does anyone by any chance happen to know how much room is back there?

Also, I am wanting to install thermal circuit breakers as shown above and a charge guard (finding an ignition sense wire would be awesome). How much of this if any would affect the factory warranty for this pick up?

 

[mmckenna]

Should be plenty of room back there for the XTVA. I think there is 4 or 5 inches at the base of the seat, and tapers up gradually to zero. I had no problems running a 110 watt XTL2500 back there on my 2011. I don't think much has changed on the newer ones.

Should not be hard to find an ignition switched circuit in the truck. Check the documents I linked to above. If that does work, theres a couple of other approaches.
On an older truck, I used the moon roof wiring. My truck didn't have that option, but the wiring was there. I tapped into the taped off wire in the A pillar and popped a fuse into the fuse box.
Other trucks I've found unused circuits that are on the accessory power. You might have to spend some time with a meter under the dash to find one.

Last resort would be to use a fuse tap.

 

[KG5HHS]

Hello again everyone! I have gone back and forth and have finally decided on what I will be putting in this vehicle and have started purchasing everything. I just have a few "small" things left to order like the charge guard, circuit breakers and wiring. I have decided I will be installing an XTL5000 110watt VHF with O3 handheld control head AND an XPR5550 40watt UHF with handheld control head, connected to a diplexer and a dual band antenna mounted on the headache rack. The speaker for the XTL5000 mounted in the driver side cubby of the center console (No speaker mounting for the XPR5550 as the HHCH has a built in speaker). A Uniden CMX760 handheld control head CB radio connected to a Firestik FS-4BK mounted to the front driver side hood mount via the Procomm PCA40. I am also wanting to install a Uniden BCD436HP on a panavise dash mount depending if I can find a way to mount an antenna. I will also be installing a Speed Tech Vireo handheld light/siren controller in the sliding compartment of the center console.

I do have a concern with the antenna setup for the VHF/UHF radio's. My headache rack is painted and I plan to use an NMO antenna with an L bracket NMO mount. I'm not sure if I should just scrape away the paint or run a ground wire from the L bracket. I am planning on putting the antenna on the passenger side of the headache rack. I am also wanting to put an antenna for the scanner on the driver side of the headache rack but I'm thinking that's not going to be an option due to distance.

Also, does anyone know where I could find a step by step guide to removing the center console?

 

[KG5HHS]

This is my current F-350. The 2011 F-150 was a similar install, but I mounted 3 lengths of uni-strut going across all 4 seat bolts.

The current install is wired for several radios, but I only have a single Moto CDM-1550 VHF installed.

The work regular cab F-350 has a Kenwood NX-700 and an NX-900 installed:

The work F-350 has a service body with a 60 amp feed to it for radio charger, inverter and some cigarette lighter outlets. The circuit breakers are mounted on the firewall, passenger side. The radio power feed runs into the cab using the previously mentioned path in the grommet. The feed to the service body runs down and under the cab.

If you are feeling adventurous, there's a lot of room behind the AM/FM radio to mount a speaker. This is in my personal truck. There are existing threaded studs (6mm x 1) that you can use to mount the bracket to. Works really well, plenty loud enough, and no one knows it's there.

Work F-350 again. No center console, so easy to hang the radios under the dash:

I like the idea of using Unistrut to mount all of the equipment on. I will absolutely be doing this! I also plan on using thermal circuit breakers. Where would be a good place to get #6 wire?

 

[mmckenna]

I do have a concern with the antenna setup for the VHF/UHF radio's. My headache rack is painted and I plan to use an NMO antenna with an L bracket NMO mount. I'm not sure if I should just scrape away the paint or run a ground wire from the L bracket. I am planning on putting the antenna on the passenger side of the headache rack. I am also wanting to put an antenna for the scanner on the driver side of the headache rack but I'm thinking that's not going to be an option due to distance.

A couple of things I'd recommend:

Headache racks don't make good ground planes. You can make it sort of work with a 1/2 wave antenna, but I've never seen a dual band that's ground independent (at least not a "real" antenna). NMO mount on the cab is a much better solution.

I have (somewhere) a similar CB to that one. You'll want an external speaker, unless you always have the AM/FM radio turned down, never roll down the windows while driving, etc. The speaker is pretty small. -also- you can use a standard RJ-45 patch cord to extend the reach of the cable between the control and the RF deck.

I'd personally recommend the Larsen NMO-27 for the CB. I've had one of those for about 30 years, good antennas. Will look better than the firestick especially mounted up on the fender. With the more flexible whip, less issues with a thin bracket mount held in with a couple of small sheet metal screws. I had one on my F150, and it worked really well, but it was mounted with a permanent NMO mount on the roof.

If you use a decent NMO mount with good cable, you won't have an issue with the scanner. Even with a crew cab, you'll not have much cable to worry about.

Depending on which is your most popular radio to use, I'd really recommend doing a permanent mount on the roof. It really does look and work better. I've got a headache rack on both my work and person F-350's, but I still mount on the roof. You really do want that ground plane.

 

[mmckenna]

I like the idea of using Unistrut to mount all of the equipment on. I will absolutely be doing this! I also plan on using thermal circuit breakers. Where would be a good place to get #6 wire?

For small quantities, Amazon. But make sure you get the SAE-J1127 rated stuff. It's got the right jacket for automotive use, will resist oil/gas and is a very fine strand so it flexes easily. You can select from various lengths here:

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-WC0474-40-Welding-Battery-Copper/dp/B01JMNK1LS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Temco+6+gauge+wire&qid=1578435597&sr=8-3

Proper crimp lugs and heat shrink are the way to go. Get the marine grade heat shrink, it has a hot melt adhesive on the inside that seals the connection really well. Also works as a nice strain relief.

Don't forget you need a negative to a grounding point. I ran mine to a seat bolt, cleaned off the paint, and added a couple of washer and a new nut, so I didn't remove/replace the existing nut. It's metric, but I forget which size.

 

[KG5HHS]

A couple of things I'd recommend:

Headache racks don't make good ground planes. You can make it sort of work with a 1/2 wave antenna, but I've never seen a dual band that's ground independent (at least not a "real" antenna). NMO mount on the cab is a much better solution.

I have (somewhere) a similar CB to that one. You'll want an external speaker, unless you always have the AM/FM radio turned down, never roll down the windows while driving, etc. The speaker is pretty small. -also- you can use a standard RJ-45 patch cord to extend the reach of the cable between the control and the RF deck.

I'd personally recommend the Larsen NMO-27 for the CB. I've had one of those for about 30 years, good antennas. Will look better than the firestick especially mounted up on the fender. With the more flexible whip, less issues with a thin bracket mount held in with a couple of small sheet metal screws. I had one on my F150, and it worked really well, but it was mounted with a permanent NMO mount on the roof.

If you use a decent NMO mount with good cable, you won't have an issue with the scanner. Even with a crew cab, you'll not have much cable to worry about.

Depending on which is your most popular radio to use, I'd really recommend doing a permanent mount on the roof. It really does look and work better. I've got a headache rack on both my work and person F-350's, but I still mount on the roof. You really do want that ground plane.

I think I will take your advise on mounting to the roof. Would you recommend mounting the VHF and UHF antenna separately on the roof or the dual band Antenna (ran through the diplexer to the radios) to the roof? I'm thinking the headache rack would still be okay to mount the scanner antenna since there will be no transmitting.

I will look into an external speaker for the CMX760. I only plan on using the cb on road trips when on I10 and such during heavy traffic. I plan on using it mostly just to monitor, I don't see my self transmitting on the thing unless its an emergency (Even then I don't know that I would). I will consider the NMO-27 antenna if I don't like the performance of the Firestik/Hood mount (It was already purchased a month ago, other wise I would look into that now). The hood mount is the only thing showing at the moment. My plan is to keep the antenna and spring in the tool box when I'm not traveling.