• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

2020 Ridgeline

k9wkj

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2015
Messages
372
Location
where they make the cheese
trying to understand where to grab power in this thing
with the start/stop deal is it safe to grab power off the nice terminal on the battery
and ground from the chassis?
looks to be simple enough to get thru the door harness grommet and right up into the
engine compartment thru the fender
but am a bit leery of all the weirdo electronics
not to mention the 2 other fuse boxes under the hood
I counted over 40 fuses in this rig !!
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
14,674
Location
SNCZCA01DS0
Commercial radio manufacturers will instruct to pull your positive power directly off the battery, or in some cases, the starter connection (yes, the engine starter, to get connections away from the acid/corrosion that can happen around the battery).
Ground to the chassis/body.

Here's why:
The radio wants clean power. Only place to get that is directly from the battery. Tapping into existing wiring can be a source of RFI, or overload existing circuits. Only time you'd want to do that was if you were running an ignition sense lead for the radio.

Fuse taps are a bad idea for anything that draws more than an amp or so. Ideally, avoid them all together.

Grounding to the chassis/body will give you a clean path back to the battery, and not bypass the Hall effect sensors that many newer vehicles have as part of their power management systems. It also keeps you from having a long 'antenna like' return path for any noise.

As always, fuse as close as reasonably possible to the positive battery terminal. Keep your wiring away from other noisy vehicle wiring.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
14,674
Location
SNCZCA01DS0
If you'd really like to geek out on this stuff and want to do some light reading, this is one of the better sources of well thought out wiring specifications I've found:
 

k9wkj

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2015
Messages
372
Location
where they make the cheese
thanks mmckenna
I will have him use the handy terminal right on the battery clamp
and grab ground from a seat bolt (he is probably mounting the radio body under the drivers seat
neither of us had delt with the newer management systems
and its alot easier to find upfitters info for traditional type vehicles
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
14,674
Location
SNCZCA01DS0
thanks mmckenna
I will have him use the handy terminal right on the battery clamp
and grab ground from a seat bolt (he is probably mounting the radio body under the drivers seat
neither of us had delt with the newer management systems
and its alot easier to find upfitters info for traditional type vehicles
Yeah, I hear you. 20 something years ago when my wife and I got married, she had a Honda. Took me a long time to get comfortable working on that car. Not what I was accustomed to.

Using the method I described will get you around all the sensors safely. Biggest issue I see is when people start doing fuse taps or tying into existing wiring. Usually the source of hair pulling type issues.

Seat bolt may be an option, but look around for other points. Not uncommon to find other grounding points inside the cabin.
 
Top