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700p Case

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TDR-94

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Hi,

I'm new to the forum.Does this radio require a special tool to open it? Does it use tamperproof screws?

Thanks
 

com501

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yep, you are correct, I had to dig one out of the junk pile. Do you torque your case screws according to spec or just tighten them like everyone else?
 

TDR-94

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T6 Torx driver. Available anywhere tools are sold.

8 screws need to be removed, from the back, and that's it.
I'm also thinking about possible replacing the whole front cover with a new one from NLT.Is there anything special required to go about doing that other than the normal ESD pre-cautions? Does a new cover include the PTT, monitor and option buttons? The NLT pic is small and it looks like the buttons are on it.

Thanks for any help that can be provided.
 

TDR-94

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I forgot to mention that I'm referring to a P7100 not 700P.

Thanks
 

ElroyJetson

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They're substantially different radios. No information regarding the cover is accurate for the cover of the other radio.

The 7100 needs to have the belt clip cover removed first. Remove the belt clip, remove the one screw behind it, carefully pry the cover off the back of the radio from inside the battery well with a flat bladed screwdriver. Then remove the eight T6 torx screws then pop the cover straight off.

If you don't have a new gasket and a new cover, there's hardly any need to worry about exactlly retorqueing the screws. Just snug them up without trying to crush anything.

The 700 cover also requires that you detach and then reattach a flex circuit. The 7100 doesn't.


The cover for a 700 won't fit on a 7100, and vice versa. They are not interchangeable.

A new 7100 cover does include everything. It should even include the little rubber "zebra strip" microphone connector which fits in the slot in the back side of the front cover. Without that your radio won't have any TX audio via the microphone.
 

com501

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Unless, of course, when you unpack the new cover, you peeled the zebra strip (packed in its little ziploc bag) off the back of the front cover where it is taped, and forgot to put it in the slot.....
 

TDR-94

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I'm guessing the new cover (if it's actually factory new) doesn't include a new gasket.Is retorqueing the screws with a new gasket absolutely necessary to water tightness? I'm new to these radios and the in's and out's of their construction. I've assembled avionics gear in the past,but there were no gaskets in the units I ever assembled to take into account when closing them up.

Does anyone know of any pictures showing one of these disassembled?I've only seen pictures of the main circuit board,but nothing showing the speaker,the gasket, how everything is connected, or the inside of the housings. I've seen a youtube video showing the disassembly and the internals of an EJ Johnson and a Motorola XT series radio,but not one of these.

 

ElroyJetson

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They're very simple. The speaker is already glued into the housing. The gasket fits on the frame and won't fall off or become dislodged with reasonable handling.

Harris will not guarantee that the radio meets its water resistance rating if you do not use a new gasket and use new screws (which have their own individual gaskets) and torque them to spec. Reusing any of these parts MAY result in a radio that isn't water resistant.

Probably it'll be fine if you use used screws and a used gasket and/or don't have the torque specs and a torque screwdriver.

It won't matter anyway if you don't have a Harris service contract and/or enter the radio yourself. Even if you bought all new parts, and the torque driver, and you did the work yourself, Harris would not warranty the radio due to the fact that an unauthorized person worked on the radio.

I found a very light bodied silicone potting compound that I have used on a few radios to weatherproof them, applying a bead of the stuff in addition to or instead of the original gasket. I specify that I used a light bodied product (I don't know the brand name because I can't read Japanese, sorry) because regular silicone sealant will make too strong a bond and make it VERY hard to diassemble the radio at
a later point in time. But the light potting compound serves well to effectively weatherproof the radio while still being easy to defeat when it comes time to open the radio for any reason, such as housing replacement.

Word of caution: The 7100 housing is notorious for cracking right next to the metal attachment ring lug right under the accessory connector. This is likely to happen eventually even if the screws are all at the proper torque specs. If you go easy on the screws that are nearest this area, the housing will last longer without cracking.
 

Radioman96p71

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These radios are pretty simple to operate on.

Take the all the screws out of the case and pop the cover off, check that the 2 "zebra strips" are in place still. One will be in the case itself (usually) right above where the keypad buttons are, the other is larger (about 1 inch long) up towards the top above the display. 9/10 times they will stay in place but you need to make sure or you can cause some issues.

From there you are presented with a PCB with the button membranes and the LCD module, if you are just replacing the cover stop here. You just need to verify the parts above are where they should be and put the cover on, no ribbon cables or anything else.

If you need to tear it down further, 4 #00 Philips head screws on the PCB come out, then gently pull up on the LCD end to pop the connector on the back of it free. 2 more philips screws on the aluminum piece at the top and bottom and you can remove that as well.

That leaves you the main PCB itself, 2 screws on either end of the PA module towards the upper-middle and you can pull up on the board gently. Odds are it will be stuck very firmly to the gasket that competes the shielding on the bottom, it will take a bit of force, i use a plastic pry "stick" in the open gap at the top where you can see under the board into the bulging part of the aluminum case. CAREFUL! there is a SHORT ribbon cable connecting the knob set to the board, DON'T PULL on it, the way it sets in there makes it pretty darn easy to tear it right where it comes to the connector on the PCB, grip the large foam block on the backside of it and use that to pull straight out, from there you are pretty much done.

Assembly is the reverse of that, you can't really mix up wires or screws as they don't fit anywhere else. Only 2 "gotchas" i can think of are make sure you line the pins up properly on that knob ribbon cable and be careful putting the top LCD PCB back in as you can knock it off the board pretty easily by just bumping the plastic clips too hard.

For what it's worth, the main board from a 700p is physically identical to a 7100 except for the logic components, and you can swap them between chassis.

Hope that helps!!
 

TDR-94

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Well it's a used unit and I just wanted to make it look a little more cosmetically acceptable.It's a personal preference of mine.I just hate looking at a beat up radio face lol!

As far as the gasketing goes.I just don't want to compromise the radio's "weatherproofing" if torquing the screws to spec is the only way to insure that it remains intact,then I may just leave it alone.Of course,since it's used,there is no guarantee it is intact now.

Thanks for all the additional info and helpful tips guys,much appreciated!
 

com501

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I sometimes use the self leveling RTV that you use to seal a new speaker into the cover to seal the chassis. Its hard to find but has a very low adhesion factor and comes out easily.

Not sure if even the manual mentions it.
 

LMR_Dude

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I'd add that when I reassemble the P7100 I start with one of the screws by the speaker first just to ensure the speaker contacts are aligned with the points that extend from the body. Then I move to the screws at the top of the radio and complete the rest of the screws in a diametricly opposed sequence to keep the body flush to the case. Its not a critical matter but a personal preference.

The spec for torquing the body screws is 3.45 in/lb so you dont have to crank on them. More force than that and youll start damging the heads of the screws by ripping out the torx portion.
 
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