• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Amateur hour with NMO hole saw and 2016 Silverado

Status
Not open for further replies.

guttapercha

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
143
I had finally gotten up the courage. I had my checklist:

1) Laird HS34
2) Blue tape, tools and such
3) Compressed air to blow away metal filings
4) Safety glasses
5) Comtelco 3/4" NMO assembly

I measured..measured again.. and measured again.

I proceeded to drill. It worked! There was a little nubbin of metal at the bottom of the hole that could have used some deburring, but the mount seated just fine, as I was able to check the base through the dome light.

Two problems:

1) Chipped 2 teeth of the HS34 on the first use.


2) Took 2 hrs to get the seatbelt guide assembly back onto the B pillar. Here's a helpful hint for others using the B-pillar on this vehicle: The assembly might not come out in one piece and will separate into two layers of seatbelt guidance plus the outer piece. Make sure to grasp the outer piece plus the one directly underneath before pulling to get the clip out of the body.

Unfortunately I have one more hole to drill and using the saw with the missing teeth on a vehicle seems risky.

To be continued..
 

Attachments

Last edited:

clbsquared

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
572
Location
Isle of Wight County
How fast were you drilling? Take it slow. Don't force it. Let the bit do the work. I have that same hole saw and it has done close to a hundred holes.

Sent from my HTC One A9 using Tapatalk
 

guttapercha

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
143
How fast were you drilling? Take it slow. Don't force it. Let the bit do the work. I have that same hole saw and it has done close to a hundred holes.

Sent from my HTC One A9 using Tapatalk
I was going for about 6 revolutions per second (the instructions stated 460 rpm max) but definitely possible that I got anxious and sped up.
 

jonwienke

More Info Coming Soon!
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
12,132
Location
VA
Not just smart, mandatory when cutting metal (except for a few cases using carbide tools to cut aluminum).
 

Mark

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jan 14, 2001
Messages
5,860
Location
Northeast Maryland
That would have been smart. Watched too many youtubes with no lubes (on people's hole saws, that is).
Yeah done some work with hole saws 1" and larger at work on dry brittle stainless steel
1/16th and thicker.Slow speed and lots of cutting oil..Gets smoky buts saves bit for a while.
Even with that hole saw blades don't last long on stainless metal.. A few holes is most you get before they are done..
 
Last edited:

guttapercha

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
143
Yeah done some work with hole saws 1" and larger at work on dry brittle stainless steel
1/16th and thicker.Slow speed and lots of cutting oil..Gets smoky buts saves bit for a while.
Even with that hole saw blades don't last long on stainless metal.. A few holes is most you get before they are done..
Sage advice. Thanks.
 

FFPM571

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Messages
1,253
Location
Chicago area
Not just smart, mandatory when cutting metal (except for a few cases using carbide tools to cut aluminum).
I've drilled thousands of antenna holes in 20 years in the upfitting and 2 way business, never used cutting oil. Steady even pressure and an a constant speed. If you are missing a tooth or two its fine . That first tooth on the blade always seems to be the one that gets lost first.
 

FFPM571

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Messages
1,253
Location
Chicago area
Yeah done some work with hole saws 1" and larger at work on dry brittle stainless steel
1/16th and thicker.Slow speed and lots of cutting oil..Gets smoky buts saves bit for a while.
Even with that hole saw blades don't last long on stainless metal.. A few holes is most you get before they are done..
Silverado roofs are not stainless steel
 

jonwienke

More Info Coming Soon!
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Messages
12,132
Location
VA
It's mandatory if you want to maximize cutting tool life, and also helps keep the cuts cleaner. A properly-lubricated cutting tool lasts longer, and chatters less. Particularly when cutting steel.
 

R8000

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 19, 2002
Messages
747
I've drilled thousands of antenna holes in 20 years in the upfitting and 2 way business, never used cutting oil. Steady even pressure and an a constant speed. If you are missing a tooth or two its fine . That first tooth on the blade always seems to be the one that gets lost first.
Same here. Been doing it for 13 years myself.
 

Mark

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jan 14, 2001
Messages
5,860
Location
Northeast Maryland
Green Lee whole punches work much better and are considerably faster than a hole saw.
Yeah Green Lee's are nice when you can get the space..
Electricians at work use them to punch conduit holes in their electrical box panels.
Great tool.
 

FFPM571

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Messages
1,253
Location
Chicago area
It's mandatory if you want to maximize cutting tool life, and also helps keep the cuts cleaner. A properly-lubricated cutting tool lasts longer, and chatters less. Particularly when cutting steel.

Yea because using cutting oil on a hole being drilled in a roof so it can drip into the vehicle's headliner and stain.. Not needed when drilling a body panel that is less than 1/8 in thick...
 

12dbsinad

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
1,222
Thousands of NMO holes here as well, no oil either as I don't want to be responsible for telling the owner of a brand new 75,000 + vehicle why there is a large oil stain in the headliner. Blades last a long time if you proceed slow and let it do the work.

Eventually you'll need to replace it like any cutting tool, but should last forever if not drilling holes on a professional level, especially with the new aluminum bodies. You can pretty much spin the saw backwards and make a decent hole.
 

n3obl

Ø
Database Admin
Joined
Dec 19, 2002
Messages
1,060
Location
PA
I keep spare blades on hand. And you need a nice slow speed with not too much pressure. Drilled hundreds and only issue i ran into was not checking the underside when i drilled hole one time and found a hidden crossmember. Made a chore running the coax.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top