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Antenna Installation '11-'13 Ford Explorer

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NodrogCop

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I forgot to reply to this...

We use two different ones: the Antenex and the Ripley. Both are gotten from Tessco. Both are great hole saws, but the Ripley is nearly half the price - both have replacement teeth. Good clean holes and you're good to go.

Gordon
 

giguchan

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I'm sure that by now you have already done the install and i know that this is an old post but I have to say this.... Pull down the headliner and use a chassis punch.
Hole saws are messy. I don't care if they are made for making holes... you will find a Chassis punch to be a much much cleaner job.
 

FFPM571

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use what the professional 2 way shops use the saw. Chassis punch is not exactly the correct size hole and will leak.
 

giguchan

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I have never had a leak.
But what I can tell you that I have seen(before I wised up) jagged , un even holes, roofs tear. and all kinds of nastiness.
Yes, of course 2- way shops use them.... They are cheap- chassis punches are not. they also don't require you to bring down the entire headliner- while with the CP you need to have access to both sides of the roof. I have seen 2 way shops install a UHF 1/4 WAVE NMO just forward of the 3rd brake light instead of where the customer wanted it...( in the middle of the roof) because it's so much easier.. and quicker..

I will give you that that a hole saw IS in fact quicker .. but in my own opinion- not better. I mean if you have been using them with no issues by all means carry on with your success, but for my money give me a Greenlee CP every time..

I have even used a CP for the firewall of the truck to install a plastic "feed thru" (hollow tube threaded on both sides) for some wires so they don't chafe up again the metal.
 

CCHLLM

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I would also like to know how a 3/4 inch Greenlee punch makes a different size hole. There are Greenlee 3/4 inch punch tools and there are Greenlee 3/4 inch conduit punches, and they are marked as such. If the punch is marked "3/4 inch conduit" or "3/4 Cond", then the hole will be 7/8 inch diameter to accommodate the threaded portion of 3/4 inch conduit fittings. If the punch tool comes from Harbor Junk or someplace other than a genuine Greenlee source, it's probably a Chinese knock-off, and who knows how it's marked and what size it really is.
 
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giguchan

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Harbor Fright?
No sir!!! Not me... I don't like walking by that place!!! looks dangerous.. I had a buddy who thinks nothing of sliding under one of their floor jacks... not me.... man.

A buddy turned me on to Greenlee. I used to do it the other way... but no more. To make sure I ordered the proper size I did some measuring and some practicing on thin metal and a NMO. when I figured out what I needed I set off to find it.

it works great every time.
 

giguchan

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The local Pd's are using the New explorers(bosses and I think the sector guys). I have not had a chance to get a close look at the Roof Antenna mounts. I'll just go ahead and say that they might be the Typical NMO mounts that have been around forever.

I don't know if the new Explorers have roof vents(HVAC) or any other obstacles in the way.

If you are going to Roof mount(non mag) an antenna I suggest the Proven NMO mount. There are just too many of them around for it NOT to be the perfect solution.

How you get the hole in the roof I'll leave up to you.
 

jim202

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I would also like to know how a 3/4 inch Greenlee punch makes a different size hole. There are Greenlee 3/4 inch punch tools and there are Greenlee 3/4 inch conduit punches, and they are marked as such. If the punch is marked "3/4 inch conduit" or "3/4 Cond", then the hole will be 7/8 inch diameter to accommodate the threaded portion of 3/4 inch conduit fittings. If the punch tool comes from Harbor Junk or someplace other than a genuine Greenlee source, it's probably a Chinese knock-off, and who knows how it's marked and what size it really is.

There is a big difference between a normal hole saw and an antenna 3/4 inch hole saw. The normal hole saw is designed to cut sheet metal to fit the 3/4 conduit and threads. The antenna hole saw is made to make a good, true 3/4 inch hole to fit the NMO mounts.

If the radio shops you have seen are using the normal hole saws, they do in fact make a jagged hole. The antenna hole saw has a very shallow, thin blade and the tool bit has a good sized ridge so that it won't go too far into the roof and hit the head liner of the vehicle. The hole is clean. You also have the ability to change the cutting blades when they get dull.
 

mmckenna

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I think you are confusing "3/4 inch trade size" and true 3/4 inch. 3/4 inch "trade size" is the size chassis punch/hole saw used to make holes for 3/4" conduit fittings. It's actually closer to 7/8".

A true 3/4" hole saw, chassis punch, bit, etc. should be truly 3/4 inch.

I agree, the common hole saws sold in many hardware stores is designed for wood/plastic and some metals. If you are not careful you can make a pretty sloppy hole.
Back when I first started doing this stuff, I used a standard hole saw. If you go very careful you can make it work, but I wouldn't recommend it.

A true 3/4 inch chassis punch is a good option for some installs. I have one in my kit and I do occasionally use it.
 

giguchan

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A chassis punch is like an AMEX card you don't do an install without one.. it's that simple.

I had a friend show me the difference of a hole made with a CP and one with a hole saw that's what sold me

We all know the end result is a hole in the roof so we can get out antenna mounted and go on from there, but I just like the nice clean cut of a cp. Once again in a busy shop where you might have to push out multiple installs or public service vehicles that have 4+ Roof mounts lights and what have you.. I might understand why a Hole saw is a faster option... I didn't say better or neater or cleaner- just faster.
 

mmckenna

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Yes, but there are install locations where you can't necessarily get to both sides, or you are installing on fiberglass, plastic, or thicker metals. Chassis punches will only handle so much before they run out. Hole saws have their place. I think both belong in an installers toolbox. Both have their benefits.
 

KJ6HCB

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Ive read in the Interceptor Utility a standard feature is a "magnetic" quick-drop headliner. Can someone whos done an install on a PI utility explain how that works?
 

FFPM571

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all the Newer ford Explorers have magnetic headliner mounting not just the police. I have worked on both.
 

giguchan

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Magnetic?
is that what they have been up to these days? wow!! I never heard of such a thing... must make roof work a lot easier- and quicker....
Thanks for the reply.
 

KJ6HCB

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So how does that work for dropping the headliner in the interceptors? I imagine there arent so many grab handles, hanger hooks, etc etc that make standard headliners a pain to pop out?

Whats the procedure like for removing one? Im picking one up shortly and it will be getting many antennas. Thanks!
 

Project25_MASTR

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Double walled roofs. Some guys still do new installs in stuff like K series Chevy's. That's a situation where the antenna hole saw comes in handy.

I also think there is a place for both the antenna hole saw and the GreenLee punch. I've done some hole saw (not for antennas) work on aluminum before, I noticed occasionally the aluminum gets gunked up in the teeth. I would imagine the GreenLee punch would work better on aluminum skinned vehicles but I don't know any commercial entities buying the new F150's or I'd ask their up fitters what they are using.
 
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