Barrier Strip Question

[KB0VWG]

This is probably a stupid question but I will ask anyways.

Where should I install a barrier strip inside the cab or under the hood? Or does it really matter?
Most of the wires are already ran to the battery but I am not able to hook them all up directly to the battery, (too many wires of course) So that's where the barrier strip comes in.
I will be running a Yaesu ft100, Motorola m1225 and a Dual band mobile.
73's
Happy New Year
kb0vwg
wqoi992

 

[ka4gfy]

You might do better with something like a Rig Runner. The problem is you can't get spade lugs large enough around the screws in the barrier strip to handle the current you need. I would guess the FT 100 draws close to 20 amps at full power. You can only get small lugs and small wires on a barrier strip. The wires will become overheated and fail.

I use #4 wire from the battery to the Rig Runner located in the back of my SUV and then my radios are fed off that. Everything is fused.

Some people don't care for the Anderson PowerPole, your milage may vary.

Take a look at K0BG.com. Alan has alot of great stuff on setting up your mobile station.

73 and good luck setting up your mobile station.
Rich, KA4GFY

 

[LtDoc]

I would suggest those 'Anderson PowerPoles' too. I've used them for a couple of years in two different vehicles. Basically a heavy line into the passenger area and a distribution 'block' (also a 'PowerPole' thingy) , then an individual power line to each device. Those 'PowerPoles' come in several different sizes, surely one should 'fit' your needs. (There's no reason not to use the larger ones for lower current applications.)
Oh well, if it works, it works.
- 'Doc

 

[AK9R]

Where should I install a barrier strip inside the cab or under the hood?

To answer your question, inside the cab is probably a better location. The engine compartment of a modern automobile is an inhospitable place. Heat is the primary culprit, but you also have the potential of moisture and road salt which will both promote corrosion in your terminals.

To give you some alternative ideas, you may want to look at a fused distribution panel such as the previously-mentioned West Mountain Radio Rig Runners or this:

ATO/ATC Fuse Panels - Waytek, Inc.

or this:

BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ST Blade Fuse Blocks at West Marine

 

[K9WG]

W9RXR is correct.

Also the heat and fumes from the engine will attack the plastic over time.

 

[Cheesedoff]

W9RXR is correct with the fuse blocks. The waytek ones are very common in large vehicles. I see them used a lot in school busses and other industrial vehicles. Just remember to use a mega fuse on the fuse block if the feed to the distribution were to short to ground you would have a big problem on your hands.
The use of a breaker like this would be wise.
Resettable Circuit Breaker Cooper Bussmann

It allows for an easy disconnect well servicing or when the car is in storage so standby currents don't drain the battery.

 

[zz0468]

You might do better with something like a Rig Runner.

A rig runner is a poor choice for a mobile environment. The connectors can pull or vibrate free, and the stress on the connectors in the Rig Runner itself will evenually cause them to fail. Ever mobile application of these that I've ever seen has ended up with radios that blink off and on again with every bump in the road.

The problem is you can't get spade lugs large enough around the screws in the barrier strip to handle the current you need. I would guess the FT 100 draws close to 20 amps at full power. You can only get small lugs and small wires on a barrier strip. The wires will become overheated and fail.

Not true. You can get barrier strips in a variety of sizes. I use barrier strips big enough to accommodate #8 wire and lugs with no problem.