Bengals_Fan
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Have a broken antenna pin stuck in the BNC input of my 895 XLT, tried prying it out with a straight pin, can't think of anything else to try, any one have any suggestions?
Broken Pin
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Maybe superglue on the end of a toothpick.
or a blast of air from a tire compressor.
or have connector facing downward and flicking with your finger.
and if it gets flicked close enough to the end, duct tape might stick to the end.
I haven't had that happen so I am just trying to guess.
or a blast of air from a tire compressor.
or have connector facing downward and flicking with your finger.
and if it gets flicked close enough to the end, duct tape might stick to the end.
I haven't had that happen so I am just trying to guess.
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Highpockets
Member
I don't know if you know what they are but, try a pair of watchmaker tweezers. I picked up a pair on the internet to keep around for stuff like that.
r_eugene1
Member
Not sure if the pin is aluminum or steel but you may try to use a very small magnet (if it is steel) like the kind that is on the end of a screw driver if all else fails. "AND I WOULD USE THIS AS A LAST RESORT" I don't know what kind of affect a magnet would have on the unit.
This is just a thought, but I would try all other ideas before I would try the magnet.
Good luck.
This is just a thought, but I would try all other ideas before I would try the magnet.
Good luck.
The tweezers like highpockets suggested are only about $6.99 at amazon.com and they sure would come in handy with surface mounted components too.
Bengals_Fan
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It's awful small, tried prying it out with a a couple of straight pins, tried a push pin with a bend in it, thought that may work, tried a very small eyeglass screwdriver, I don't think there is enough room for tweezers, I have a few I may try though.
ecps92
Member
The glue idea that K3HY suggested could work, but I wouldn't use superglue (it flows too easily and will likely just flow into the opening and permanently glue the pin in place). You could try a quick set 2 part epoxy. After mixing it will get very tacky in a couple minutes before hardening. Once it is tacky, you can roll it into a ball (don't use your bare fingers) and use this to try and stick it to the broken BNC pin Use a pin or toothpick to poke through the "epoxy ball" horizontally (or simply stick it to the end of a q-tip) and use it to place the ball over the broken pin, keeping it horizontal (perpendicular to the BNC connector), try to stick it to the pin.
If that doesnt work, then replacing the BNC connector is probably your only option. Good luck
If that doesnt work, then replacing the BNC connector is probably your only option. Good luck
Many of the pins are brass so a magnet will not work.
gewecke's suggestion is the best for sure.
I've "knocked" a few of them out before by smacking the connector on a hard surface a few times. This may prove difficult for a base model though and no idea what else it may "knock" out! I do NOT advise trying this though unless you are really desperate and you do not care if it does further damage which it likely will. Surface mount components start falling off and tuned circuits get knocked out of alignment etc and even worse, you also crack the display! Not a good idea as you can see.
I have pulled broken pins out with the super glue trick with a tiny speck of glue on the end of a pin that I filed partially flat for more surface area. A paperclip was too thick and the needle was too sharp until I filed it flat. A toothpick just absorbed the small amount of glue I was trying. I've also done the same thing extracting broken keys from lock cylinders. I think I've failed though about 95% of the time as the super glues do want to flow to the other parts if it touches anything other than the broken part at all making a bigger problem. Maybe one of the gel type super glues would work better as it is thicker and does not flow as easy.
In reality, you should be able to mount about any chassis mount BNC jack into the 895 as there is a lot of space available for the task if what you buy will not fit the old hole.
Buy a good quality Amphenol jack from Mouser if you do replace it.
They sell them with four hole flange mounts or the barrel kind that are held in place by a large nut from the inside. I don't recall what the 895XLT uses though but it could be the kind that solder directly to the board and are also affixed to the chassis with an external nut or threaded ring nut.
Looking at an 9000XLT sitting here, it does use the type that is soldered to the circuit board and is also held to the chassis for extra support with a ring nut on the external side of the chassis. Any jack would work though but you may need someone to put the new hole in the chassis and also do the needed soldering if you lack the tools and/or soldering experience.
gewecke's suggestion is the best for sure.
I've "knocked" a few of them out before by smacking the connector on a hard surface a few times. This may prove difficult for a base model though and no idea what else it may "knock" out! I do NOT advise trying this though unless you are really desperate and you do not care if it does further damage which it likely will. Surface mount components start falling off and tuned circuits get knocked out of alignment etc and even worse, you also crack the display! Not a good idea as you can see.
I have pulled broken pins out with the super glue trick with a tiny speck of glue on the end of a pin that I filed partially flat for more surface area. A paperclip was too thick and the needle was too sharp until I filed it flat. A toothpick just absorbed the small amount of glue I was trying. I've also done the same thing extracting broken keys from lock cylinders. I think I've failed though about 95% of the time as the super glues do want to flow to the other parts if it touches anything other than the broken part at all making a bigger problem. Maybe one of the gel type super glues would work better as it is thicker and does not flow as easy.
In reality, you should be able to mount about any chassis mount BNC jack into the 895 as there is a lot of space available for the task if what you buy will not fit the old hole.
Buy a good quality Amphenol jack from Mouser if you do replace it.
They sell them with four hole flange mounts or the barrel kind that are held in place by a large nut from the inside. I don't recall what the 895XLT uses though but it could be the kind that solder directly to the board and are also affixed to the chassis with an external nut or threaded ring nut.
Looking at an 9000XLT sitting here, it does use the type that is soldered to the circuit board and is also held to the chassis for extra support with a ring nut on the external side of the chassis. Any jack would work though but you may need someone to put the new hole in the chassis and also do the needed soldering if you lack the tools and/or soldering experience.
OCO
Member
The gel type cyanoacrylic's don't seem to creep like the standard super glues...still a tough job since the pin is being gripped...
k3cfc
Silent Key
Your not going to remove this pin. just replace the bnc connector.
K3cfc is right, you won't be able to remove the pin 99% of the time. Look at the chassis mount BNC and try to find a replacement that is close to what's there now, makes it easier to fit the new one. BNC cable type connectors come in all mounting styles, the easiest to mount on the cable are the type that are crimped. But they need special crimp tools that can be pretty expensive, might be cheaper to pay $20-$30 for a pro to do it.
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