CB Mount Location Ideas for 2017 Ford F-250

[drew1985]

I have 2017 Ford F-250 and am having a tough time finding a good location to mount a CB. I am trying to get ideas first and then order a radio that will be best regarding dimensions. Do any of you have any thoughts? I think the newer F-150's are similar in the layout. Mine is a King Ranch Ultimate package so I don't have many spots that are open/clear. Thanks for your input in advance.

I've been reading this forum for a couple years and this is my first post and I can seem to upload a picture because it's saying the file is too large.

 

[mmckenna]

Avoid mounting the radio on the top of the dash. While there are companies that make mounts that install in there, and it can work, having your radio sitting there baking in the heat isn't a great plan.

Some install them inside the center arm rest area. If you don't need to mess with the controls very often, this can work just fine. You'd need to add a suitable external speaker. We've done this with a few VHF radios on newer GM trucks with full center consoles.

Other option is to use one of the Uniden hand held remote head radios. The RF deck can be put somewhere out of the way and the controls/microphone just plug in. All you need to do at that point is to figure out where to put the microphone. CMX760 Bearcat Off-Road Compact CB Radio with Mic Display

I used to use one of the Uniden CMX-560's in my 2011 F-150. I was using it for listening on a long road trip. It worked well enough for my needs. I mounted the RF deck behind the rear seat with the VHF radio deck. Since the mic/control head cable is just a simple 4 pair cable with RJ-45 on each end (Ethernet cable), I just made up an extension cable with a male RJ-45 on one end and a female RJ-45 jack on the other.
The small speaker in the microphone is pretty quiet and doesn't sound great, so adding a larger external speaker really helps.

Just make sure you pull your power directly off the truck battery. Avoid the temptation to use cigarette lighter plugs or tapping into any existing wiring. That's the quick way to introduce unwanted noise into your radio.
And put a lot of effort into your CB antenna. If you want this to work well, you need to focus on the CB antenna. No cheap $20 antennas….

 

[drew1985]

Avoid mounting the radio on the top of the dash. While there are companies that make mounts that install in there, and it can work, having your radio sitting there baking in the heat isn't a great plan.

Agree I'm definitely not going to do that.

Some install them inside the center arm rest area. If you don't need to mess with the controls very often, this can work just fine. You'd need to add a suitable external speaker. We've done this with a few VHF radios on newer GM trucks with full center consoles.

My only issue with this is the lack of access to the controls. I did consider it though.

Other option is to use one of the Uniden hand held remote head radios. The RF deck can be put somewhere out of the way and the controls/microphone just plug in. All you need to do at that point is to figure out where to put the microphone. CMX760 Bearcat Off-Road Compact CB Radio with Mic Display

How reliable and solid are these radios? Do you lose much quality in performance/receive etc by going this route?

I used to use one of the Uniden CMX-560's in my 2011 F-150. I was using it for listening on a long road trip. It worked well enough for my needs. I mounted the RF deck behind the rear seat with the VHF radio deck. Since the mic/control head cable is just a simple 4 pair cable with RJ-45 on each end (Ethernet cable), I just made up an extension cable with a male RJ-45 on one end and a female RJ-45 jack on the other.
The small speaker in the microphone is pretty quiet and doesn't sound great, so adding a larger external speaker really helps.

Regardless of what I decide on I'm going to add an external speaker. Typically I have always had one but nothing fancy. In my other truck I have a cheap Midland speaker and it gets the job done but I've heard a lot of people recommend the DSP Clear Speech speakers so I'm considering one of those for this setup. Any thoughts on their benefits?

Just make sure you pull your power directly off the truck battery. Avoid the temptation to use cigarette lighter plugs or tapping into any existing wiring. That's the quick way to introduce unwanted noise into your radio.
And put a lot of effort into your CB antenna. If you want this to work well, you need to focus on the CB antenna. No cheap $20 antennas….
[/QUOTE]

I agree completely. I always run my power directly to the battery and have always been overkill with my trucks grounding etc. I am running a Larsen NMO 27 in my other truck and it works great. My only issue in this Ford is that I don't think I can run that same roof NMO 27 setup due to a Sunroof that covers the whole top of my roof. Also the new Ford has the aluminum body so that leads me into another problem I need to figure out regarding antenna setup.

Thanks for your input

 

[mmckenna]

How reliable and solid are these radios? Do you lose much quality in performance/receive etc by going this route?

It was a basic radio without a lot of features. For what I needed, it was fine. Main use for it was to listen. I think I only talked to people on it a few times.
The short coming with it was the small speaker, and that was an easy fix.

I've heard a lot of people recommend the DSP Clear Speech speakers so I'm considering one of those for this setup. Any thoughts on their benefits?

I used an old Motorola speaker I had already installed for a different radio. With the larger speaker, it sounded just fine.
I've heard others talk about the DSP speakers, and it should improve audio. For what I was doing, and the few times I actually heard usable radio traffic, it wasn't worth the investment.

I agree completely. I always run my power directly to the battery and have always been overkill with my trucks grounding etc. I am running a Larsen NMO 27 in my other truck and it works great. My only issue in this Ford is that I don't think I can run that same roof NMO 27 setup due to a Sunroof that covers the whole top of my roof. Also the new Ford has the aluminum body so that leads me into another problem I need to figure out regarding antenna setup.

Thanks for your input

OK, good. Clean power is important. Too many take the quick/easy no effort way of just using a cigarette lighter plug.
I ran an NMO-27 with mine, and was happy with the performance. I already had the NMO mount installed from a previous 800MHz radio, and I already had the antenna (same CB antenna I've had for nearly 30 years), so it was easy. Just had to change the connector on the coax.

The mount I had was on the rear of the cab, just in front of the 3rd brake light. My VHF antenna had the prime real estate in the center of the roof. The antenna worked fine and showed a low SWR in that position.
I'd still go with that location with your sun roof. Put in a permanent NMO mount and be done with it.

 

[slowmover]

On road experience is that what I hear in the big truck it’s no longer a surprise that the roof mounts always have it over the other locations.

The exception is connecting some huge amp. But that’s a crutch to avoid, IMO. Pointless to get out farther tha you can hear:

DSP is mandatory in my experience. What these radios should have had a decade ago (among some other features). No other change (past quality install) does as much.

Get over that one has to cut, drill or change the truck. There’s millions of them out there. Yours (mine) isn’t unique.

What IS unique is the decision to have very best 11-Meter performance. As you are the eyes of the other drivers not privy to what you can see, take this all the way: I am responsible.

That others will be grateful for your efforts is — I can assure you — a daily and weekly event.

DSP means you can hear those distant or marginal rigs. 50W+ means they can hear you.

“Perspective” is what’s missing in CB discussions. The world just doesn’t give a damn you have an IPhone 12. Or a $900 scanner. Nothing will ever come of that unless your immediate neighbors can share in it.

On-road and with some level-headedness, your timely actions WILL make a difference.

But only if you can hear, and be heard.

NMO-roof is a great start.

 

[drew1985]

It was a basic radio without a lot of features. For what I needed, it was fine. Main use for it was to listen. I think I only talked to people on it a few times.
The short coming with it was the small speaker, and that was an easy fix.




I used an old Motorola speaker I had already installed for a different radio. With the larger speaker, it sounded just fine.
I've heard others talk about the DSP speakers, and it should improve audio. For what I was doing, and the few times I actually heard usable radio traffic, it wasn't worth the investment.




OK, good. Clean power is important. Too many take the quick/easy no effort way of just using a cigarette lighter plug.
I ran an NMO-27 with mine, and was happy with the performance. I already had the NMO mount installed from a previous 800MHz radio, and I already had the antenna (same CB antenna I've had for nearly 30 years), so it was easy. Just had to change the connector on the coax.

The mount I had was on the rear of the cab, just in front of the 3rd brake light. My VHF antenna had the prime real estate in the center of the roof. The antenna worked fine and showed a low SWR in that position.
I'd still go with that location with your sun roof. Put in a permanent NMO mount and be done with it.

This may be a dumb question but since it's an aluminum body would the NMO mount still work correctly? I do have a small area (I'm guessing about 12") between the sun roof and the third brake light that I could drill but was under the impression that the aluminum body would cause a ground issue. I might be completely wrong on that.

 

[mmckenna]

This may be a dumb question but since it's an aluminum body would the NMO mount still work correctly? I do have a small area (I'm guessing about 12") between the sun roof and the third brake light that I could drill but was under the impression that the aluminum body would cause a ground issue. I might be completely wrong on that.

Not a problem.
The ground plane just needs to be an electrically conductive material. Aluminum works just fine.
They've been using aluminum on fire engine and ambulance bodies for years. Aircraft use aluminum skins. Lots of newer Fords out there with antennas mounted on them.
Aluminum is actually a better conductor than steel.

 

[drew1985]

Not a problem.
The ground plane just needs to be an electrically conductive material. Aluminum works just fine.
They've been using aluminum on fire engine and ambulance bodies for years. Aircraft use aluminum skins. Lots of newer Fords out there with antennas mounted on them.
Aluminum is actually a better conductor than steel.

Thanks for the clarification. I don't know why I was thinking that regarding Aluminum but either way I will probably go with the NMO mount and do either a Larsen or Laird. Thanks for your time and input I appreciate it.

Looking at the truck yesterday I'm thinking about mounting it somewhere under and to the right of the steering wheel column. There is a decent size piece of plastic trim there and I checked to see if it was close to my legs and it's not a problem. I think I can run the wiring and coax under and then behind that trim towards the firewall. It's the only spot in the truck I could find that's out of the way and doesn't look ridiculous that I can still see/adjust the controls. I used a President Ronald radio as a fitment test. It's fairly small and would be similar in size to anything I would choose for that truck. I'm actually considering getting another one of them and using it for the radio choice.

 

[mmckenna]

Looking at the truck yesterday I'm thinking about mounting it somewhere under and to the right of the steering wheel column.

There's a feed through on the passenger side firewall just behind the underhood fuse box. It comes out behind the glove box, so kind of a pain to get to from the inside, but easy from the engine side. There's a nipple on the grommet that you can cut the end off and get your power feed through. I had no issues getting a 6 gauge wire through.

 

[wheelerg]

For the F250 they now sell a mount that goes in between the third brake light and cab that gives a mounting shelf for antennas. Would likely need a ground plane kit with radials I think 🤔. Not cheap. $200

 

[mmckenna]

For the F250 they now sell a mount that goes in between the third brake light and cab that gives a mounting shelf for antennas. Would likely need a ground plane kit with radials I think 🤔. Not cheap. $200

Those products are for people that want the antenna, but don't want to drill the hole. It comes with drawbacks (pretty major ones if you ask me). Considering the cost and the performance impacts, it's a lot of money for what it is.

It will create a lopsided ground plane under the antenna, which will result in a very lopsided radiation pattern, and may result in problems getting a low SWR.

 

[drew1985]

For the F250 they now sell a mount that goes in between the third brake light and cab that gives a mounting shelf for antennas. Would likely need a ground plane kit with radials I think 🤔. Not cheap. $200

Do you have a link to this mount?

 

[drew1985]

Those products are for people that want the antenna, but don't want to drill the hole. It comes with drawbacks (pretty major ones if you ask me). Considering the cost and the performance impacts, it's a lot of money for what it is.

It will create a lopsided ground plane under the antenna, which will result in a very lopsided radiation pattern, and may result in problems getting a low SWR.

I understand your point on the location being offset to the back but if I have the full Sunroof that basically covers almost the entire roof area. If I drilled a hole it would basically have to be very near that same general area due to the Sunroof. With that being the case would you think this mount might be good or is there another reason you don't think it's a good option?

 

[mmckenna]

With that being the case would you think this mount might be good or is there another reason you don't think it's a good option?

Biggest reason is the $329.00 or more cost. Super Easy 2-Way Radio Antenna Mount

For $329 you can buy an NMO hole saw and an NMO mount and have a better install. Heck, you could by yourself a brand new Milwaukee cordless drill and still come out ahead.

While I'm sure the mount will work, it is way over priced. The only benefit I see is that for those that really don't want to drill a hole in their truck, but $329 and up?

 

[slowmover]

Mount works well, or it doesn’t. (It’s not, “hey, 80% as good!”).

Coming thru Louisiana yesterday on IH20 heard of a wreck 12-miles ahead. (I confirmed the mile marker and direction-of-travel thru the overwhelming amount of Skip present on AM-19.)

I diverted around using US80 just a couple of miles north (the old main road) by getting off nine miles early. There was no exit within a few miles of the accident.

Heard the guys with the backup radios — as usual — wondering why there was a two-mile backup as I rode past — alone — on the parallel route. (Some of whom had good-sounding radios, but didn’t have the ears I’d had a dozen miles back).

Think of the desperate situations for which you’d pay any price to get away. (It only takes ONCE of being in the wrong place at the wrong time).

If Radio is backup to a Jesus-phone, one has things in wrong order.

Your brothers either have valuable on-the-spot information . . or they don’t.

It’s that simple.

Joining a community of like-minded individuals (11-Meter Radio) entails a comparatively small fee; a one-time expense: DO IT ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT.

IMO, it isn’t by accident you are on this forum learning what questions to ask. (So follow through).

I’m on my third big truck install (brand & model) and have found it’s not likely to keep the up-front expense under $1,000. A pickup or SUV could or should be lower (component parts, not tools or supply). Maximum highway range is not the same as “good performing CB”.

Once an install is done it’s with gear that should last ten years in daily use. Antennas may break and coax may fail, but the rest soldiers on. So spread the expense over those ten years.

One should be able to Hear, and to be Heard.

The spread between my Kenworth and those around me — in performance terms — is far greater than the extra dollars spent.




.

 

[slowmover]

You can learn why the traffic has stopped by getting out of your pickemup and walking over to a big truck driver. Happens to me on a regular basis.

If this is the equivalent of your CB rig . . might think it through a little harder as to gear and effort expended.

— Saving a few steps of walking sure ain’t much of a radio.

“Avoidance” is a subset of Choice.

A pickup (or what-have-you) is potentially FAR better as a mobile rig than nearly any big truck. But that’s next to impossible to find in operation.

Why?

Because 11-Meter is not taken seriously. Joke radio rigs with joke antenna systems.

4WD, lift kit, winch, mud tires, etc ($15k) ain’t worth beans for choices about Routing when it matters.

“Hey, look, a riot with three shoot-outs! Think I’ll drive right on up there to get within range!”

Get out your crayons and color-in why choice has value. (Forewarned is Forearmed).

Save the off-road truck capabilities for when adrenaline and desperation aren’t in effect.

The race is not to the swift. (Nor will it be to those in the left lane more than 3-4 times per 100-miles).

Objective assessment:

— How to use a radio rig is the practice of doing so on a regular basis. Goals to accomplish and feedback as to practicality.

— Being a conscious, consistent participant means ignoring the babble. There are PLENTY of others just like you.

.

 

[kermit1]

As far as mounting location, I ran into a similar problem with my Ham rig. The short term solution was to mount the radio in the center console and I ran the control head to the windshield. The permanent solution (when I get home) is to mount the radio behind the dash and run the control head to a hard mounted spot down by the trailer brake control. As far as CB, I guess it really depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to run SSB, you need to be able to manipulate the controls much more often. How visible do you want it, or do you care? How tall are you? An option could be on either the drivers side or passenger side of the center console on the outboard side if the seats don't have to go too far forward.

As far as the third brake light mount, I've seen them for less. I also have the full sunroof, but that isn't my biggest reason for wanting alternate antenna mounting points. I just don't want to drill the hole. I ended up using a fender mount with an NMO and get 1.1:1 in the middle of the 2m band for swr and it seems to work pretty well...though I'd love it to be higher. Maybe I will change that when I get home, too.

 

[drew1985]

As far as mounting location, I ran into a similar problem with my Ham rig. The short term solution was to mount the radio in the center console and I ran the control head to the windshield. The permanent solution (when I get home) is to mount the radio behind the dash and run the control head to a hard mounted spot down by the trailer brake control. As far as CB, I guess it really depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to run SSB, you need to be able to manipulate the controls much more often. How visible do you want it, or do you care? How tall are you? An option could be on either the drivers side or passenger side of the center console on the outboard side if the seats don't have to go too far forward.

As far as the third brake light mount, I've seen them for less. I also have the full sunroof, but that isn't my biggest reason for wanting alternate antenna mounting points. I just don't want to drill the hole. I ended up using a fender mount with an NMO and get 1.1:1 in the middle of the 2m band for swr and it seems to work pretty well...though I'd love it to be higher. Maybe I will change that when I get home, too.

So I don't plan on ever using SSB. Also for anyone telling me their opinions on why I need to have SSB I don't personally have a need for it. I have a President Ronald in my other truck and am extremely impressed with it overall compared to any other radio I've owned. I would like to stick with the President brand because I personally feel like they are very well made and simple.

I'm assuming you have a very similar truck as mine? I'm 6'5" tall so my legs are definitely a factor.

I would really like to avoid stashing it in the center console if at all possible but don't want it looking ridiculous either. I was considering the President Bill for this truck due to it's extremely compact size. I feel like my mounting options are a little better with it vs the Ronald but I'm not sure. If you are familiar with my truck I would love to figure out possibly mounting it in the long tray type thing on the driver side of my center console. (That spot would be to the right of my right leg and if positioned correctly would allow me to access and see the display)

The President Bill doesn't have the output of the Ronald so if I went that route I'm considering a small Amp to give it a hand getting out.

This isn't directed towards you but anyone else focused on the hole drilling. I'm not worried about drilling a hole in my roof. The problem is that the full sunroof has a secondary visor that retracts after the sunroof is closed. It's between the headliner and the roof. The area that I could actually drill a hole is directly on the spot where all of that visor retracts and somehow rolls up. I can't see exactly the space I have up there but I do know that drilling a hole with anything going through it would either interfere or be extremely close to that visor system. I'm not saying it wouldn't work but it's a $80,000 truck with a lot of intricate parts. Not wanting to create a mess of problems with it.

 

[drew1985]

As far as the third brake light mount, I've seen them for less. I also have the full sunroof, but that isn't my biggest reason for wanting alternate antenna mounting points. I just don't want to drill the hole. I ended up using a fender mount with an NMO and get 1.1:1 in the middle of the 2m band for swr and it seems to work pretty well...though I'd love it to be higher. Maybe I will change that when I get home, too.

On the fender mount you got was that on one of the front fenders?

 

[kermit1]

So I don't plan on ever using SSB. Also for anyone telling me their opinions on why I need to have SSB I don't personally have a need for it. I have a President Ronald in my other truck and am extremely impressed with it overall compared to any other radio I've owned. I would like to stick with the President brand because I personally feel like they are very well made and simple.

I'm assuming you have a very similar truck as mine? I'm 6'5" tall so my legs are definitely a factor.

I would really like to avoid stashing it in the center console if at all possible but don't want it looking ridiculous either. I was considering the President Bill for this truck due to it's extremely compact size. I feel like my mounting options are a little better with it vs the Ronald but I'm not sure. If you are familiar with my truck I would love to figure out possibly mounting it in the long tray type thing on the driver side of my center console. (That spot would be to the right of my right leg and if positioned correctly would allow me to access and see the display)

The President Bill doesn't have the output of the Ronald so if I went that route I'm considering a small Amp to give it a hand getting out.

This isn't directed towards you but anyone else focused on the hole drilling. I'm not worried about drilling a hole in my roof. The problem is that the full sunroof has a secondary visor that retracts after the sunroof is closed. It's between the headliner and the roof. The area that I could actually drill a hole is directly on the spot where all of that visor retracts and somehow rolls up. I can't see exactly the space I have up there but I do know that drilling a hole with anything going through it would either interfere or be extremely close to that visor system. I'm not saying it wouldn't work but it's a $80,000 truck with a lot of intricate parts. Not wanting to create a mess of problems with it.

I've heard good things about the President radios, so I don't blame you for wanting to stick with them. The Bill seems like it would be a good fit for that tray area you're talking about (I have a 2016 F150 Lariat....it has the same interior as yours). I put my external speaker there for the time being. Seems to work fine. The reason I asked about height is because while I'm 6'0", my wife is 5 ft even and has to move the seat way up if she drives, so it would interfere if I mounted something on the outside of the console there.

FCC limits AM CB to 4w and that's what the specs show the Bill puts out, so you shouldn't need an amp. The Ronald lists as a Ham rig, so that's probably why the power is higher. Import radio, maybe? Don't know. Anyway I have the same sunroof you do, and I've heard from others that it isn't hard to route the NMO through there if that's a route you choose to go, but the mount I got was a front fender mount. It bolts to one of the fender bolts on the driver side and is angled to match the truck. I think it was 25 bucks. I got it at HRO, but it could be ordered online if you wanted to. It seems to work well. If I had a taller antenna, I'm sure it would work better, but for what I've been doing right now it seems to be fine.