Soo thats were im confused, if i connect a speaker to the unit, then i dont have a option for the 20 and pin 10, my thought or theory is to strip the speakers connection, put that into my own 20pin and then wire the ignition sense?
Yes, you can purchase your own connectors and make your own. Finding the 20 pin connectors for these radios isn't as easy as finding the more common 16 pin connectors. But that's not an issue as the 16 pin connector will fit on the 20 pin connector and still give you access to both the speaker and ignition sense circuits.
Real Original Motorola Kit # HLN9457A.
www.ebay.com
<p dir="ltr">Motorola 16-Pin Accessory Connector for speaker & Ignition sense [Fits all 16 pin Motorola radio connectors] including CDM750, CDM1250, GM300, Maxtrac, CDM1550 and many others. Condition is New. Tested. Works perfectly!</p> <p dir="ltr">Made in the USA<br> Happy to answer questions...
www.ebay.com
Speaker pins are 1 and 16. Ignition sense is Pin 10. Easy to do with the above products.
I guess my next question should be, for my 30a fuse from the fuse box, i was gonna use a fuse expander, should i get a 30a fuse expander or do i just need a 2-10a one since for the ign sense off the radio it shouldnt need more than i would guess 4a for the ignition sense.
Don't tap existing wiring/fuses in the vehicle for powering the radio. That's a really bad idea.
-The circuit may not be able to support the additional load of the radio.
-The circuit may introduce unwanted RF interference from existing vehicle electronics.
Instead, power the radio directly off the battery, as Motorola (and every other LMR manufacturer) will tell you.
-Run the positive lead for the radio —direct— to the battery positive post. Install a fuse (15 or 20 amps is plenty for a CDM, 30 amp fuse is way too big for the wire size) as near to the battery as you can. Do —NOT— tap existing wiring. Spend the time to do it right and you'll have a much better setup. Don't cut corners.
-Run the negative lead for the radio —direct— to a body ground near the radio. Do —NOT— run it all the way back to the battery. Most newer vehicles have a current sensor on the negative battery lead that reads vehicle current consumption. Bypassing that with a lead from the radio can screw things up. Running the negative lead to the body ground allows the vehicle systems to work as designed. It also can help reduce/eliminate RF interference by giving the radio a short path to ground.
To tap an existing ignition switched circuit, a fuse tap is an acceptable solution. But -just- for the ignition sense circuit. The radio usually only needs an amp or so at the most, usually much less.