CS800D No Holes Radio Install In A Tahoe

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popnokick

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After turning in my leased vehicle we were left with one vehicle in the garage: “her” Tahoe. I previously had my CS800D in my leased vehicle and now wanted to move it to the Tahoe. My better half initially said, “No holes, no wires, no antennas, and no visible radio stuff” in the Tahoe. But she is a wonderful partner and I was able to negotiate her to a compromise of “no holes, no wires” but it was still going to be a tall order for me to figure out a minimalist, unobtrusive install of the CS800D. This is the tale… with pictures… of what I’ve done.

Doing this type of VHF/UHF mobile radio install is made possible with these significant components and design factors. Much of it is probably applicable to other types of vehicles -
  • The Connect Systems CS800D is one of the few (maybe only) dual-band VHF/UHF FM and DMR radios that has a Control Head that can be separated from the Main Body of the radio.
  • The separation cable to the Control Head is standard Cat6 Ethernet cable and can be quite long… mine was 25 feet (but probably could have gotten by with 20 ft).
  • A Tram 1911 Thru-Glass mount antenna made the “no holes” antenna possible. I’ve had four of these with four different vehicles in the last 15 years and they’ve all worked just fine.
  • Dashboard mounting was accomplished with adhesive-backed magnetic mounts designed for cellphones, GPS, and other mobile accessories.
TOOLS and parts you will likely need -
  • Multimeter to check for 12V power, vehicle ground, and continuity of the connections to the terminals and power leads that you make
  • A plastic spudger or other not-sharp tool to carefully push the flat Ethernet cable into place under trim and carpet
  • Wire cutters and terminal crimpers
  • 14 ga or larger 2-conductor wire
  • Assorted ring terminals
  • Connectors for the 12V power cable (I used Anderson PowerPole because they are quick disconnect / connect, but other butt connectors could be used)
On to the pictures!

CONTROL HEAD - The radio Control Head was placed on the dashboard to the left of the instrument cluster, and is invisible from the passenger side. The head is held in place by the magnet base on the dash and a small plate that adheres to the bottom of the Control Head. This allows easy removal of the head for “aesthetic” reasons if necessary. (Yes, I do need to find a better place for the mic. Probably another magnet mount on the lower portion of the dash below the lighting controls.)

IMG_2277.jpeg

MAIN BODY - The Main Body of the radio is located in a sub-floor compartment in the back left of the cargo area. It is connected via Cat6E flat Ethernet cable carefully tucked into floor / door / carpet molding edges from the dashboard down and all the way back to the compartment in the back. No cutting, no visible wires.

IMG_2282.jpeg

POWER - For the initial “proof of concept” I used a 12V outlet on the left side of the 3rd row seat. Ugly and subject to disconnect or breaking.

IMG_2264.jpeg

Thanks to the Tahoe PPV Upfitter’s Guide, I was reminded that there was a fuse block behind the left-side panel in the back that houses the tire jack. The better solution was to open that panel and use an Add-A-Fuse adapter. There were plenty of open sockets. A bonus was that there was also a threaded bolt connected to the vehicle ground conveniently located near the fuse box. Use the multimeter to ensure any bolt you select is in fact connected to the vehicle ground!

IMG_2278.jpegIMG_2280.jpegIMG_2279.jpegIMG_2281.jpeg

ANTENNA - is a Tram 1191 thru-glass mount 2M / 70cm dual-band antenna. Careful… there is another Tram that is made for VHF / UHF commercial bands (Tram 1192) and one for just VHF high band (1189). Should it be mounted higher on the glass closer to the roofline? Yes! No question. However even at this height I get a little “tap” of the antenna tip on the overhead transom of my garage door every time in or out. Any higher would be a “sproing” and probably bent / broken antenna. The CS800D has an “N” connector (not PL-259) for RF, so rather than use an adapter I had a custom length of LMR-240 made up with an N-connector on one end a matching connector for the antenna on-glass box (RP TNC or TNA… check first). The antenna comes with a tiny plastic tuning alignment tool. After you finish the install connect your SWR meter and apply the tuning tool to the capacitor slot in the center of the box. Adjust it as you watch the SWR meter on transmit (or use a VNA). Mine didn’t “swing” too far even at limits of the cap’s travel. But I have had them be very touchy in the past. 2M SWR was about 1.3 and UHF about 1.7.

IMG_2268.jpegIMG_2265.jpeg

Not bad for an “Amateur”! 73 & SK
 

ems55

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Nicely done !! One question: how stable is the control head in case of an accident??? Does it still stay after being in the sun and getting hot ???? I've had stuff become unglued after being in a hot car with the sun washing the dashboard !!!!
 

popnokick

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We’ll see how well the adhesive works on the dash. I’ve experienced the same heat-deterioration with Velcro-type mounts in the past. But not yet with the Scosche mounts I used. Time will tell. As for coming loose in crash: not very likely and it weighs only a couple ounces despite the appearance of metal (it’s plastic). I expect an airbag deployment from the steering wheel or side curtain would be the main objects “flying” in the occupant spaces.
 

03msc

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If your goal is no-holes then you succeeded for sure. So good job on that.

In my personal opinion, and the opinion of many others, adhesive or other 'non-permanent' (i.e. bolted) mounts on dashes are a no-no. The airbag deployment (and there are airbags in the a-pillar) could/would make that head a flying object at very high speed in an accident. Sadly, even if the accident wouldn't normally injure a person, a radio head to the face at over 100mph certain can...and it may not be the driver/user but a passenger or other driver). I understand the goal and the why but I would strong recommend trying to get that control head to the center console (even inside the armrest) and off the dash for this reason alone. A minor change that could save potential injury in the future. But, that's my opinion but based on historical facts. Maybe sharing that with her would get her convinced that safety is better than trying to go no-holes. k0bg.com goes into all of this quite extensively.

If you're happy with the performance of that antenna then that's good but I rarely hear any positive results from through the glass antennas on today's modern vehicles due to the makeup of the glass, etc. But, it seems like your SWR is certainly acceptable so maybe you got lucky on that. A 1/4 wave black 2m whip on the center of the roof (drilled nmo of course) would be even less noticeable and yield even better performance. Maybe you can convince her of that down the road sometime, especially if range/performance is desirable.

Not dogging on the install as you clearly took time to get a mutually acceptable install and you get kudos for that!
 

popnokick

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Certainly not true with all vehicles, but the GM Upfitter Guide for the Tahoe does not show the Windshield Pillar as an airbag location nor in the Deployment Zone. The location of the Control Head also prevents the driver having to look down at the center console or armrest (or be tempted to do so). And of course, radio equipment should never be operated while the vehicle is in motion.
 

03msc

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To my knowledge there are airbags there on Tahoes. I can’t imagine they’d put them in some and not others but OK.

It’s your install and your decision but I’ll never be convinced that a hard object taped to a dash (regardless of what it is) is a good idea. Your risk to take, though. I wouldn’t do it with myself but especially not if someone else is driving or riding in the vehicle…but, again, your vehicle and not mine. It was just an observation.

@K7MFC I also wondered about the antenna being low but assumed it is because of a clearance issue in a garage or something.
 

popnokick

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Why so low on the antenna? This tells me you must have missed this from the section in the post marked ANTENNA: "Should it be mounted higher on the glass closer to the roofline? Yes! No question. However even at this height I get a little “tap” of the antenna tip on the overhead transom of my garage door every time in or out. Any higher would be a “sproing” and probably bent / broken antenna." What else did you miss? Sometimes when I read the RR Forums on my cellphone I miss portions of the posts due to the smaller screen. Thanks for commenting and I can attempt to fill in other details if requested.
 
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popnokick

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The upfiiter guide shows how to install exterior spotlights with the aiming control arm and handle mounted on and through the windshield pillars. A spotlight handle would certainly be an airbag impediment and hazard. Couldn't be done if airbags were present.
 

bharvey2

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I thought so but wasn't going to continue going back and forth with him over it. Thanks for providing the details.


This is where "trust but verify" comes into play. I've found car (and other manuals for that matter) just straight out wrong. If it were me, I'd take the facia off of the A pillar and look for myself. Having a CS800D faceplate shaped scar on my face and claiming "but the manual said...." just wouldn't do.
 

03msc

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Agree. And hopefully the OP knows and understands that input here is only meant to help and, at least from me, is not intended to be cutting down the install. We simply know things from experience or what we've seen and heard that there may be better ways to do something or things that should be done differently to eliminate or mitigate potential injury or issues.
 
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