Hmmmmmm... Rehashing the `12VDC' and 9VDC' powered scanner `thread' again? {WAN GRIN!} I seem to remember that besides myself there were a couple others who came up with an answer for this before but, I'll run it by again just in case.
First off... Get youself another `rigrunner', or similar, but *without* the `powerpoles' connectors. Standard spaced double Banna plug / binding post connectors are just fine. Next open it up so that you'll be able to have a *good* idea of just how much real room you will have to work with. (You are going to be building a regulator circuit inside.) Figure out what radios you are going to be powering and how much the *maximum* current you are going to drawing at the voltage you are going to be building your regulator for. (Hint! *Resist the urge* to try and `cheap john' this by using one of those `three terminal' IC regulators! You are going to want something that can handle some *power* and even the old TO-3 cased versions won't be able to do so! [5amps *may* seem like a lot but it really isn't all that hard to go over if one isn't careful!]) Do a *very* careful and through search for a circuit that will be able to supply the voltage and current you've come up with that you'll be needing *and* can also handle a fairly wide range of current draw while *still maintaining* it's regulation. (You really *don't* want it to allow the voltage to vary much more than about +/-.5V and +/- .25V is even more desirable.) Next comes the `fun' part {GRIN!}, building the regulator circuit into the `box'. The actual `output' device will have to have decent to danged good heatsinking and while using the metal case itself may be appealing a good finned heatsink is the way to go. (*Don't* `scrimp' on the heatsinking! Except for a very few `special' cases there is no such thing as too much! If you can find a heatsink that'll fit the length of one side and not `overlap' `front & rear' whilst still being able to hold your output device(s), use it!) *Finally*, You are going to have to do something to designate that this power outlet `strip' is *just* for powering devices that take the voltage you designed the regulator for. You should already have *one* `step' done by making it's connectors different from your `12VDC' unit. But, taking the `belt-n-suspenders' approach, it might also be a good idea, if at all possible, to paint the case of the unit a different colour than that of the `12VDC' unit. If you cannot do that another idea would be to get some `double banna plug' connectors, same number as `jacks' on the box is a very good idea, that are some other colour than black or red, I used yellow, and label and tag them someway as to what voltage is being used and then plug one into each jack pair and only remove them if you are actually going to use them to hook up a radio with it to the `box'. (BTW, *good* Banna plug `pairs' happen to have a `polarity' `marker' molded in. Usually one of the plugs will have a raised `rib' molded into the body next to it. If you used yellow like I did then you can take one of those `paint markers' similar to a `sharpie' and mark it black for negative or red for positive depending upon which ever you figure you'll be able to easily remember. Since it was a `line' on the ones I used I marked mine with black.)
Doing it this way means that not only do you have a place to provide power for your devices that happen to use whatever you designed the regulator for but you will also be able to keep the actually `count' of power supplies, whether they are actual `power supplies' or a `battery bank' of some kind down to just a few at one voltage (12VDC?). I *know* it sounds like a lot of work but in the long run it *does* `pay off'. (In being able to run the radios, control, and also in basic `organization' and `looks'.) Now, *if* this seems to be something that is not your `cup-o-tea' about the only other way might be to go with one or two of the RS `high current' wall warts, a few adapta-plug extensions and `Y' adapters plugged into an AC outlet strip and some careful creative `cable tie work' to keep all the wires `under control'. `For what it's worth' I've been both routes and while I was able to somewhat keep the `mess' with the wall warts, extensions, `Y' adapters, ETC. `under control?' the difference between that and actually having something akin to a RigRunner, except that it was for 9VDC, to handle things was, to use a well worn phrase, `like night and day'! (On one of the double banna jack / binding posts I have one of those three outlet `lighter socket' adapters in place so that *if* I *have* to plug in a unit that takes 9VDC *quickly* I can do so *and* I don't have to use a `cord' that's regulated but instead can just use a `standard?' `cord-n-plug' just like I can do with the adapter I have wired to my 12VDC `strip'. The 9VDC adapter is painted bright `electric' yellow and the 12VDC isn't, though I *did* consider painting it `electric' red, painted at all so that I can easily tell which is which at a glance. (It also makes it easier to give someone instructions, too! "You've got a 9VDC radio there? What plug does it use? OK, here's a cord with the right plug. Plug it into the *`electric' yellow* set of sockets.") I'm considering possibly building another power strip for 6VDC and using `electric?' green as the `coding' for it. It'll `hinge' upon whether or not I end up getting more than 1 or 2 6VDC radios. (If I only end up with just a couple I'll probably just use an `adaptaPlug' `Y' adapter off of the appropriate wall wart. {WAN GRIN!})
With a bit of planning and some careful shopping this should be, at the most, a `weekend' project.
