Desperate for volume/squelch pot - Pro 197

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dustul

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I have searched high and low for info on this but I don't see where anyone has actually found a solution. My Pro-197 has had a scratchy volume pot for years. Now it's to the point where I am losing audio in the first part of the pot's range - which we all know takes you from no volume to blaring.

Does anyone know of a source for replacement pots, or a replacement of the sub-pcb that carries the pot and the 3.5mm jacks?

Alternatively, does anyone have the specs (size, values) so I can search for a possible replacement? Thought I had a hit on a Chinese part from ebay and it turned out to be a rotary encoder instead of a squelch pot. :(

Think it would be possible to put a traditional pot in an enclosure and sit it on top of the unit?
(I know, that's ridiculous but that shows how desperate I am!)
 

6Paul21

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Try Gerry at G & G. I have done a lot of business with him and he is great. Does Whistler have a similar model then you might try them?
God Luck Ed
 

Nasby

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You can fix it. Mine had the exact same problem. The issue is dust and oxidation accumulating inside the pot.

I removed the volume and squelch knobs and sprayed a small amount of WD40 into the pot.

Then I put the volume knob back on and rapidly turned it off and on to get the lubrication down into the parts.

I read about this fix here on Radiorefernce. Some suggested using WD40 and others suggested Deoxit.

I used WD40 on mine over a year ago and the problem has been 100% cured without any issues!
 
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simmsrep

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Service manual shows=
Potentiometer, Volume 50 kohm(A) Squelch 10 kohm(B), W/Switch
Mfr's# RG82BS-2A1-B103-OEC2
or- GE-03D-0200
or- GR-08D-1220
Assembly PBC, VOL/SQ/Headphone/PCIF Mfr's #GA-07D-2880
Hope this helps.
 
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Cognomen

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If the pot has an opening, spray electrical contact cleaner into it and rotate it back and forth a few times.
 

902

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Got to say first that I don't have a specific source, but I plugged in "concentric pc mount potentiometer" into a search engine and looked at the images tab and saw a couple that look like they might be usable in GRE equipment based on my Pro-2096 which kinda looks like it could use the same part. I don't know if they have the off detent and switch, but it might be worth a look if cleaning the pot doesn't work.

Good luck!
 

dustul

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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Looks like this is the same road many other have gone down without a lot of success. Scary because my handheld is newer and its getting scratchy now too.

(1) The part numbers everyone has are either GRE specific or are custom parts that were made for them. I get a hit from Union Electronic Distributors (UED.net) on part RG82BS-2A1-B103-0EC2. Unfortunately, the order minimum is 1000 parts at $9.80 each - think we can mobilize another 999 GRE/RS/Whistler owners(actually make that 998 because I'll take 2)???

(2) G&G emailed me back yesterday saying he could put a part in that would fix the volume - but replace the squelch pot with a rotary encoder. Then he would hard-set the squelch internally (with a resistor I presume). I just don't see myself losing all squelch control and spending $69 to do it.

(3) I've been searching online and I have a hit on a seemingly identical pot with a 50k audio taper and a 50k linear taper. From what I hear the audio taper would be perfect on volume. I'm not an electronics expert, but does anyone think some resistors could be added in parallel to correct the 50k squelch pot down to the proper 10-ish? This could work...
 

trp2525

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Same radio as a Whistler WS1065. Just get it from them.
I have been told by Whistler that they only repair Whistler brand scanners and they do not sell any scanner repair parts other than the scanner parts/accessories listed on their webpage: https://whistlergroup.com/collections/scanner-accessories

The only exception that I have read about here on RR was Whistler making available for sale the removable head with the keypad used on the WS1098 (and later the TRX-2) scanners. IIRC there was some interest in separately purchasing the head with the keypad used on the WS1098 to mate it with a WS1095 chassis which would essentially "upgrade" the radio to a WS1098.
 

Nasby

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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Looks like this is the same road many other have gone down without a lot of success. Scary because my handheld is newer and its getting scratchy now too.

(1) The part numbers everyone has are either GRE specific or are custom parts that were made for them. I get a hit from Union Electronic Distributors (UED.net) on part RG82BS-2A1-B103-0EC2. Unfortunately, the order minimum is 1000 parts at $9.80 each - think we can mobilize another 999 GRE/RS/Whistler owners(actually make that 998 because I'll take 2)???

(2) G&G emailed me back yesterday saying he could put a part in that would fix the volume - but replace the squelch pot with a rotary encoder. Then he would hard-set the squelch internally (with a resistor I presume). I just don't see myself losing all squelch control and spending $69 to do it.

(3) I've been searching online and I have a hit on a seemingly identical pot with a 50k audio taper and a 50k linear taper. From what I hear the audio taper would be perfect on volume. I'm not an electronics expert, but does anyone think some resistors could be added in parallel to correct the 50k squelch pot down to the proper 10-ish? This could work...
Did you try the lubricant repair?
You really have nothing to lose.
If you have the skills to remove and replace the volume assembly, you could certainly manage to give the lube repair a try.
 
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trp2525

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Did you try the lubricant repair?
You really have nothing to lose.
If you have the skills to remove and replace the volume assembly, you could certainly manage to give the lube repair a try.
...Do not use WD40 on electronic assemblies. Deoxit is a much smarter choice.
I used Radio Shack Control/Contact Cleaner and Lubricant #6400148 on the volume and squelch pots on an old crystal scanner that I was cleaning/restoring and it totally resolved the noise (and "dead" spots) that I was getting from the volume and squelch controls. It's available on the shelf at my local Radio Shack store so it MAY also be available at your local Radio Shack but YMMV.

Here's the link to the Radio Shack Control/Contact Cleaner and Lubricant on the Radio Shack website: https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-control-contact-cleaner-and-lubricant
 

northzone

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Do not use anything other than an electronic cleaner of some type. Lubes collect dirt and will do more harm than good in the long run.

If the carbon trace has worn off the pot nothing will fix it.

There was a guy on ebay selling the assembly with the pots and jacks mount on the small pc board with wires and a plug. (it was about 30 bucks).
 

dustul

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So I opened her up this morning to take a look. The pot is mounted on a sub-assembly PCB, sitting sideways, and up against the corner of the faceplate. Probably requires disconnecting the ribbon cable that connects the face to the main board too. If I can get the correct part or that sub PCB somewhere I'll risk it - otherwise no way.

Tried some contact cleaner but it was evaporating quick enough that I don't think it will penetrate a "sealed" pot by running down the shaft.

I scored a 2ml tube of Deoxit liquid on ebay pretty cheap - figure I'll stand it up on its back and put a couple of drops on the shaft. Maybe after some cycling and soaking time it will get in there.
 

dustul

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Final Results!

Thanks again for everyone for all the advice - and to Adam - 14 for finding that tutorial on cracking the pot open. Saw that years ago but couldn't dig it up until you sent the link.

Gaining access to the pot is tough on the base/mobile units. You literally have to disassemble the entire unit including separating the face into 3 pieces. It's worth it in the end. You end up holding a little PCB with the pot on it and the input/output jacks. I scraped a hole in the pot, put in some deoxit, taped up my hole, and voila brand new scanner again!!!

As long as they don't up and go phase 2 on me I'm all set.
 

KevinC

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Finally used some DeoxIT D5 on my GRE-based volume/squelch pots. Worked wonders.

Also used it on noisy external speaker jacks, cleaned those up as well.
 
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