DIY XG-100M CAN bus terminator?

[fog]

Has anyone built a CAN bus terminator for the XG-100M? I'm having a hard time finding the real deal, and as of Monday it appears this will be the only part I will be missing for my remote CH-721 + XG-100M setup. I'd like to see if I can just jury-rig something in the short term.

From reading a bit online about the CAN protocol in general, it sounds like a 60 Ohm resistor on each of the unused ends might be what's needed? But I somehow cannot find a single reference to this with Harris radios, so I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing. The Power Cable Pinout thread describes the connectors for the CAN ports, but not how to build your own terminator. XG 100M Power Cable Pinout Anyone able to walk me through what I need to do here?

 

[MWW85]

Here is the part you need. New London Technology Online Store

 

[fog]

Thanks! That looks like exactly what I'm looking for.

Until they arrive, anyone know what's going on electrically inside of them so I can try to get something temporary set up?

 

[prcguy]

Thanks! That looks like exactly what I'm looking for.

Until they arrive, anyone know what's going on electrically inside of them so I can try to get something temporary set up?

Have you tried the radio without any terminators? In many cases it will work fine.

 

[fog]

Have you tried the radio without any terminators? In many cases it will work fine.

That's good to know! The control head should arrive tomorrow; I'll give it a try without them for bench testing.

 

[splinter34]

120 Ohms between the "bottom" two pins (the ones horizontal with the flat plastic key)

 

[BMDaug]

120 Ohms between the "bottom" two pins (the ones horizontal with the flat plastic key)

Yep! You can literally just grab a thruhole resistor, fold it over and stick it in the jack… I wouldn’t install it in a vehicle that way, but in the bench, it’ll work forever.

-B

 

[2154]

Have you tried the radio without any terminators? In many cases it will work fine.

huh? I've literally never had one work without a CAN Terminator in place as well. And this is after working with over 400 or so of them.

 

[Forts]

They are available thru other suppliers as well, and a little cheaper than NLT...

MICRO-CON CABLE END #20 SOLDER | Switchcraft

www.switchcraft.com

 

[BMDaug]

They are available thru other suppliers as well, and a little cheaper than NLT...

MICRO-CON CABLE END #20 SOLDER | Switchcraft

www.switchcraft.com

Ya, Switchcraft acquired Conxall in 1999, but they seem to be merging the brands more and more lately.

-B

 

[Teotwaki]

I ended up with way more of those than I need

 

[prcguy]

I ended up with way more of those than I need

The solution to your problem is to buy a bunch more radios so you can properly consume those pesky terminators. From my count that would be six remote mount radios or twelve under dash versions. Of course you can mix and match as long as you buy enough radios to use them all up.

 

[Teotwaki]

The solution to your problem is to buy a bunch more radios so you can properly consume those pesky terminators.

Sure, sell me yours for $350 each

 

[prcguy]

Sure, sell me yours for $350 each

Sorry, I too have spare terminators and am shopping for radios so I can use them up.

 

[AF1UD]

Little bit off topic but where can I get spare can bus cables? NLT?

 

[BMDaug]

Little bit off topic but where can I get spare can bus cables? NLT?

I usually just make them… the cable is 110 ohm AES/EBU cable and the connectors are Conxall. The part numbers are posted in a couple of other threads. I partly build them because I hate the 90 degree connector that Harris puts at one end of the OEM cable. I also like the cables to be roughly the right length instead of having a big coil of cable sitting on top of the brick.

-B

 

[mancow]

I just mocked up the connector in CAD and 3D printed them. Now I can make any connector I want any time. No, sorry, not giving out the file due to patent issues, etc... but it's not difficult. You don't really even need the retaining ring. Mine fit snug enough they aren't coming out without quite a bit of force.

All you need is a 6 or 7 mm tube with a arc at one side and three DB25 sized crimp pins.

 

[Teotwaki]

I just mocked up the connector in CAD and 3D printed them. Now I can make any connector I want any time. No, sorry, not giving out the file due to patent issues, etc... but it's not difficult. You don't really even need the retaining ring. Mine fit snug enough they aren't coming out without quite a bit of force.

All you need is a 6 or 7 mm tube with a arc at one side and three DB25 sized crimp pins.

Power connectors next?

 

[mancow]

Power will be easier due to the much larger size. The only problem I ran into with the CAN is it's so small and support material is difficult to remove but it works. Figuring out a decent cable strain retention method was a bit of a head scratcher but I decided that since there's no real cost involved to just go the disposable route. I'll just backfill the crimp ends area with glue or maybe a 3D filament printing pen and call it a day. Just cut it off if ever needed and throw on another. You end up with a much small overall footprint too since it's a different design as the original and doesn't have that large cable retention locking end.

Sorry to derail the thread

 

[Teotwaki]

Power will be easier due to the much larger size. The only problem I ran into with the CAN is it's so small and support material is difficult to remove but it works. Figuring out a decent cable strain retention method was a bit of a head scratcher but I decided that since there's no real cost involved to just go the disposable route. I'll just backfill the crimp ends area with glue or maybe a 3D filament printing pen and call it a day. Just cut it off if ever needed and throw on another. You end up with a much small overall footprint too since it's a different design as the original and doesn't have that large cable retention locking end.

Sorry to derail the thread

Not a derail at all. Your resourcefulness is appreciated!