FTM-500D into Nissan D40 Frontier

[KD7RJC]

Starting an installation of a new Yaesu FTM-500D into a 2015 Nissan Frontier.

I chose this radio specifically due to the removable head with integrated speaker. My objective is to make the install clean and relatively unobtrusive. I already have a Scangauge III on a mount on the top of the dash, I want to avoid adding more of that look.

Through the various years of the D40 Frontier (2005-2021), R51 Pathfinder (2005-2012), and N50 Xterra (2005-2015), and even into the D41 Frontier (2022+) variously optioned trucks have had a sunglasses holder integrated into the overhead console just aft of the rearview mirror, in front of the dome/map lights. In the seven years I've owned my Frontier I've never used the compartment.



On a lark this afternoon I pulled down the roof console altogether to have a look and to see about test fitting. With it removed I had access to a surprisingly large open void along with the satellite radio antenna mounting bolt.



The mounting slots at the front are interesting. It looks like the sheet metal was punched to accommodate several different mounting options, but only the longitudinal slots further aft are actually used for my roof console.

I disassembled the console itself and took out the sunglasses mechanism, this was required in order to remove the door without damaging anything. I went ahead and partly installed the console again. I couldn't engage those forward slots, the sunglasses section itself contains the hardware for that.


Holding up the control head for the FTM-500D with the aftermarket clone of the YSK-7800 head separation kit mounting bracket I had fairly ample clearance, but the underlying sheet metal was still visible. I decided to try to use that sunglasses well itself without the door to cover up the hole. I installed the clone mount:


Hopefully the large, flat washers will keep the plastic mount from distorting too much. I used some old electrical mounting tabs on the back side of the sunglass well so to not have my hardware pull through:


The radio installed into its bracket:


Test fitting the sunglasses well into the open cavity, I can see the knobs in the rearview mirror, but not so terribly that it will be a problem. The rear view is effectively unobstructed.


I pulled that down and reassembled the roof console with the sunglasses well and the radio head, and it seems workable:




Now that I have a place for the faceplate I'll need to figure out how to run wire for the head separation cable and the mic, plus get power from the battery to the radio. I expect that the radio is going to go on the inside rear bulkhead of the cab, behind the rear seat, and that the handmic will end up with a cable installed into a jack in a panel-mount on the dash. I want to be able to easily unplug the handmic and take the head and radio body out.

I may also install an aux battery behind the back seat, but I'll need to go with something that isn't known to vent too badly.

Part why I chose this here, I might end up with an LMR that has been provisioned for 6m, it wouldn't have a removable face so it would need to go somehere else that could accommodate.

I'll drive around a bit this week, confirm that the head seems secure enough, before I move ahead with more work. The couple of holes I drilled aren't a big deal if it turns out that I need to do something different.

To be continued...

 

[KD7RJC]

This is what I've come up with as a tentative design for the electrical system:



Constructive criticism would be appreciated. I'd rather not mess up my first proper mobile install.

 

[KD7RJC]

Around three weeks ago I made progress on the install, getting the power, the control cable from the head to the radio body, and the bracket for the radio body installed.

For anyone looking to replicate what I did this is going to be picture-heavy and probably a bit over-simplistic.

I pried-up plastics along the rocker sill and the rear of the cab and started my pull with my cable spools in the rear seat area:


Down and past the C-pillar to the rocker sill:



I used the factory cable management clips where possible, and used a fiberglass cable tech's rod to fish the cables below the interior B-pillar panel up to the rocker area at the driver's door. I also took care to avoid the side-impact sensor.

I had to remove the kick-panel in the driver's footwell and run the cable up the dash, and I had to remove the A-pillar plastic to run the control cable.


For the power cable I found a rubber plug in the firewall up high past the driver's footwell. I took the plug out, drilled a little hole in it and pulled it onto the cable, then pulled the cable in through the hole and set the plug. I also took some yellow corrugated wireloom cover and zip-tied it into place with the cable inside.






Unfortunately I didn't get any photos of pulling the control cable through the A-pillar, across the top of the headliner above the sun visor, and over to the overhead console.

I then closed-up the plastics.


This was a little premature, since I ended up needing to loosen it to install the bracket.

...to be continued...

 

[KD7RJC]

...continuing...

With the overhead console down to pull the cable in I installed an 8P8C bulkhead-mount coupler body through a hole drilled in the sunglass well, after trimming it to fit the curve of the hole and of the compartment:




With the control head installed:


I crimped the terminals on for the battery and put a fuse in-line right at the battery:

yeah, the battery is filthy. It's almost due for replacement.

I also put connectors on the other end at the radio, no pictures, it was approaching 11pm at this point.

Lastly I took a piece of metal and drilled it for the radio bracket and to use the "top tether" LATCH system mount to hold the radio:


I still need to shorten up the wiring to make it tidier, and to replace the antenna cable with something that can be disconnected at the back of the cab.

It's alive:



I also need to figure out where I'm going to install the panel-mount 6P6C coupler for the handmic. Likely in the center console facing the driver:


I may also play with where the radio is grounded for its negative, SWR is not quite as good as I expected, high ones and low twos rather that low to mid ones.

But it works and signal report from another operator on a repeater around twenty miles away at 25W was crystal clear.

 

[ramal121]

Yup, that's how you do it. Not sure about your fuse at the battery though. I'd prefer a waterproof fuse holder or maybe circuit breaker. Who knows, give it a shot and see how long it lasts.

 

[KD7RJC]

Yup, that's how you do it. Not sure about your fuse at the battery though. I'd prefer a waterproof fuse holder or maybe circuit breaker. Who knows, give it a shot and see how long it lasts.

It's on the list of things to work on. It was after 10pm when I got to that stage in the install and I didn't want to stop what I was doing in order to go to a 24 hour auto parts store for a fuse holder.

 

[KD7RJC]

I should add, I ended up not going dual-battery for now either, the radio has automatic power off at half-hour increments up to 2.5 or so, then hour increments thereafter. So using APO to keep from draining the battery will work so long as I'm not operating for an extended period of time with the engine off.

 

[slowmover]

MBRP fuse

Would like to see rubber grommets on sheetmetal penetrations plus anchoring (Adel clamps) on both sides of those.

TESA Wire Loom Tape.

I choose split-loom for every foot of power. Tape joints. Ideally one can remove as an entire harness (guiding idea).

— Dodge (my vehicle brand) recommends terminating 12V Neg to that fender connection next to BATT.

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