I’ve never used these and wondered if they are good/safe. One end plugs to the fuse box and it has a place for two fuses. Why two? The package came with 15A fuses. The fuse I am looking at tapping into is 20A. Can I safely use a 20A fuse with this
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Fuse Tap Adapter Question
- Thread starter tglendye
- Start date
I would generally use them only for ignition sensing, not for pulling any real power from. Maybe 1 or 2 amps max. draw.
Let me rephrase that: I might tap off of a 20A fuse location, but I wouldn't try to draw 20A thru this itself.
A scanner? Probably not a problem.
Let me rephrase that: I might tap off of a 20A fuse location, but I wouldn't try to draw 20A thru this itself.
A scanner? Probably not a problem.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
One fuse is for the original circuit you've tapped into. The other fuse is for the newly added accessory.
Good/safe is debatable. Some have no issues using them and are happy with a quick install.
You need to be sure whatever source you are tapping into has a sufficient supply side that will support the original load plus the new load.
It might be sufficient for a scanner, but probably not for a new transceiver.
You also need to be careful about the noise that you might let into your radio from the existing circuit. Is it a "quiet" power source, or is it something that is going to create a lot of rf interference?
As for 20 amps, if the original circuit was rated for 20 amps, then you'd probably be OK since it's just using the fuse tap. Whatever you add to the new circuit needs to be considered.
These things are really sloppy in my book. Fine for tapping an ignition sense circuit for a radio, or for some very low draw applications. It's a short cut to adding a new circuit and isn't ever going to be as good as a proper radio circuit off the battery. I don't use them, and I prefer to power radios directly off the battery.
"Your milage may vary".
Good/safe is debatable. Some have no issues using them and are happy with a quick install.
You need to be sure whatever source you are tapping into has a sufficient supply side that will support the original load plus the new load.
It might be sufficient for a scanner, but probably not for a new transceiver.
You also need to be careful about the noise that you might let into your radio from the existing circuit. Is it a "quiet" power source, or is it something that is going to create a lot of rf interference?
As for 20 amps, if the original circuit was rated for 20 amps, then you'd probably be OK since it's just using the fuse tap. Whatever you add to the new circuit needs to be considered.
These things are really sloppy in my book. Fine for tapping an ignition sense circuit for a radio, or for some very low draw applications. It's a short cut to adding a new circuit and isn't ever going to be as good as a proper radio circuit off the battery. I don't use them, and I prefer to power radios directly off the battery.
"Your milage may vary".
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
OK that helps.
Probably would work fine.
However, if you start noticing a lot of RF interference on the radio, consider the source circuit and the shared load as a possible source of that noise.
If you don't have the skill/ability/tools to power it off the battery directly, then this may be an economical solution. They do come with drawbacks, though.
They are safe as long as people understand how exactly it all works.
If you tap off for instance, a 20 amp fuse that's draws 15 amps, and add another 20 amp fuse (tap) and that device is drawing 15 amps, that's now a 30 amp draw being put on that line. If the wire going to that (before the fuse) is rated less than 30 amps, you will start melting insulation before the fuses and possibly the fuse socket.
In your case with adding a scanner, there is not much concern as the scanner does not draw much.
If you tap off for instance, a 20 amp fuse that's draws 15 amps, and add another 20 amp fuse (tap) and that device is drawing 15 amps, that's now a 30 amp draw being put on that line. If the wire going to that (before the fuse) is rated less than 30 amps, you will start melting insulation before the fuses and possibly the fuse socket.
In your case with adding a scanner, there is not much concern as the scanner does not draw much.
I diagnosed strange CAN communication issues on a GM truck where the ‘installer’ used a ScotchLok on pin 16 of the OBDII connector to power a radar detector.
