What frequencies do garage door openers operate on? I know that's an odd question, but I was just wondering :lol: . And while we're at it, what frequencies do those remotes that you keep on your keychain that unlock your car doors operate on?
Garage Door Openers...
- Thread starter CSL126
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My car key operates on 319.4xxxx MHz. It's just a very short data burst.
nd5y
Member
There are several frequencies between about 315 - 390 MHz for
those devices.
those devices.
N
N_Jay
Guest
CSL126 said:
310, 390, 418, 433
There may be some others.
I have seen some on 390Mhz; but I'm sure there are other freqs too.
I used one once to turn on and off lights at a softball field, cause the girls didn't like to unlock the door to the circuit breakers in the dark.
Used the door remote to trip a ratchet relay that operated a 200 amp lighting contactor
I used one once to turn on and off lights at a softball field, cause the girls didn't like to unlock the door to the circuit breakers in the dark.
Used the door remote to trip a ratchet relay that operated a 200 amp lighting contactor
nd5y
Member
You can look up the FCC ID number on the device here
http://www.fcc.gov/oet/fccid
and see if the documentation lists the frequencies.
http://www.fcc.gov/oet/fccid
and see if the documentation lists the frequencies.
Thanks for the replies everybody!
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I looked up my -GE- wireless transmitter schematic and found a part there I never heard of.
What is a Saw resonator? It says to-39 saw, I Have not much of an idea.
Schematic can be found here from the -FCC- site.
Another question I have is why do they use encryption when viewing the info.? So I don't know if the link will work for you or not.Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
What is a Saw resonator? It says to-39 saw, I Have not much of an idea.
Schematic can be found here from the -FCC- site.
Another question I have is why do they use encryption when viewing the info.? So I don't know if the link will work for you or not.Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
gr8amp
Member
poltergeisty said:
A SAW resonator is a device that is used much similarly to a crystal, but can be inexpensively manufactured for use at much higher frequencies. The TO-39 is simply the package type of the SAW (little metal can a little smaller than a dime).
nd5y
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SAW = Surface Acoustic Wave
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Thanks so much. TO-39 package number. What was I thinking. 
:lol:
It looked like a number for tuning it or some other factor.
Now is a -SAW- better then a crystal or not much a difference?Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
:lol:It looked like a number for tuning it or some other factor.
Now is a -SAW- better then a crystal or not much a difference?Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
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N_Jay
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poltergeisty said:Thanks so much. TO-39 package number. What was I thinking.
It looked like a number for tuning it or some other factor.
Now is a -SAW- better then a crystal or not much a difference?
Better? Better for who?
Cheaper is the main improvement.
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For me I would like to build one.Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
gr8amp
Member
poltergeisty said:
You will want to use a SAW device. It is difficult to build a simple (single transistor) transmitter at 400 MHz (or whatever freq. it uses) with a crystal. If you look into crystals you will find that the maximum fundamental frequency averages around 50 MHz (they can be found higher). SAW devices can be found, relatively cheap, well into the 900 MHz range and beyond.
If you really want to build one, you may be better off first playing around with some of the RF transmitter modules available. Just find one on the frequency you need, there are many available, just do a quick search on google.
The encoder IC looks very much like a Holtek device (the pin assignments seem to line up). Motorola makes similar encoders (the protocol is slightly different though). Look into the Holtek HT12 series, that might be the exact chip. Finding the correct encoder is vital as any differences in the protocol (data format, preamble, etc.) simply wont allow the system to work.
Have fun.
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Thanks much, a -SAW- device it is. :wink:
I own a transmitter already however, I would like to build a second one and would like to learn more about this. Maybe incorporate it into some kind of security system. :idea:
I actually have most of the house on wireless remote, including my radios. The bad thing is I can't use the receivers with a fluorescent lamp because of the circuitry involved after the -AC-because it will start a fire if I did this. I was thinking of using a relay scheme to bypass this. So I would activate the receiver and then the relay would connect the 120 to the lamp. The coil of the relay would be 12v via a transformer connected to line in.
It operates at 315 MHz. I wasn't sure until I found this link and typed in the -FCC- ID. So naturally I entered it into my scanner and heard the data bursts as I pressed on or off. It sounds better in WFM, is this the primary modulation of this type of data output? Or is FM used as well?
When I think about it there is a lot of wireless data applications out there. I remember when I got RC cars for Christmas. I experimented with them and heard the data pulses when held the controller next to one of those standard kids walking talkies. I know now that one of the frequencys for them to be on is 49.860 MHz. :lol:
I can also hear these same kind of pulses used for cordless phones. When hanging up there is a data burst, pressing channel, picking the phone up and when the phone rings. I also attached one of those phone taps that receive the electric fields through the phone on to a -TV- remote and heard the pulsing of the infrared -LED-. So do remotes use a encoder chip similar to this I guess? I'm not sure.
I'm curious to know if there's a computer program that will show the binary of these data protocols? By using a receiver and an audio line connected to the sound card for decoding.
I would like to learn more about this encoding. Whats a good web site you may know of?
I have sampled the data bursts of my remote. :lol: The first you hear is on and the second off. I had to put the MP3 into a zip file because this site does not allow an upload of any type of audio. I recorded it at a 56K bit rate @ 22,050 Hz. mono.Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
I own a transmitter already however, I would like to build a second one and would like to learn more about this. Maybe incorporate it into some kind of security system. :idea:
I actually have most of the house on wireless remote, including my radios. The bad thing is I can't use the receivers with a fluorescent lamp because of the circuitry involved after the -AC-because it will start a fire if I did this. I was thinking of using a relay scheme to bypass this. So I would activate the receiver and then the relay would connect the 120 to the lamp. The coil of the relay would be 12v via a transformer connected to line in.
It operates at 315 MHz. I wasn't sure until I found this link and typed in the -FCC- ID. So naturally I entered it into my scanner and heard the data bursts as I pressed on or off. It sounds better in WFM, is this the primary modulation of this type of data output? Or is FM used as well?
When I think about it there is a lot of wireless data applications out there. I remember when I got RC cars for Christmas. I experimented with them and heard the data pulses when held the controller next to one of those standard kids walking talkies. I know now that one of the frequencys for them to be on is 49.860 MHz. :lol:
I can also hear these same kind of pulses used for cordless phones. When hanging up there is a data burst, pressing channel, picking the phone up and when the phone rings. I also attached one of those phone taps that receive the electric fields through the phone on to a -TV- remote and heard the pulsing of the infrared -LED-. So do remotes use a encoder chip similar to this I guess? I'm not sure.
I'm curious to know if there's a computer program that will show the binary of these data protocols? By using a receiver and an audio line connected to the sound card for decoding.
I would like to learn more about this encoding. Whats a good web site you may know of?
I have sampled the data bursts of my remote. :lol: The first you hear is on and the second off. I had to put the MP3 into a zip file because this site does not allow an upload of any type of audio. I recorded it at a 56K bit rate @ 22,050 Hz. mono.Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
JnglMassiv
Member
It seems an amazing coincidence that this is coming up at this particular time.
This morning was my college graduation commencement excercises. Yesterday was our senior project presentation and exhibit. My partner and I put together a project using SAW filters AND the Holtek HT12E/D encoder/decoder chips.
I'd just as soon not get into the specifics of the project but we used Infineon TDA5101 315MHz FSK (link is for ASK variant) transmitters. We saw about 5-10dBm from the radio chips (we had several transmitters). The Holtek and Infineon parts got along wonderfully! The crystal the radio chips wanted to see wound up being about 10.17MHz. Suffice to say, this would have worked great for a garage door opener.
I don't think I'm giving much away with this photo (Because I cropped it on purpose..and it's fuzzy not-on-purpose). It's our board (our own layout, all etched and soldered by hand) with board populating in progress.
For the receiver radio and decoder section shown, the parts being discussed are pretty clear. The Holtek HT12D is clearly marked and the Infineon TDA5211 is the fine pitched IC. The SAW filter is the through-hole part on the far right with a red paint dot just barely visible. The 10.17xxx crystal was soldered to the pads to the left of the Infineon chip. We never got around to a full range test but it never failed in an array of environments and we spec'ed it at 100-300 foot range. Flourescent lights never posed a problem.
This morning was my college graduation commencement excercises. Yesterday was our senior project presentation and exhibit. My partner and I put together a project using SAW filters AND the Holtek HT12E/D encoder/decoder chips.
I'd just as soon not get into the specifics of the project but we used Infineon TDA5101 315MHz FSK (link is for ASK variant) transmitters. We saw about 5-10dBm from the radio chips (we had several transmitters). The Holtek and Infineon parts got along wonderfully! The crystal the radio chips wanted to see wound up being about 10.17MHz. Suffice to say, this would have worked great for a garage door opener.
I don't think I'm giving much away with this photo (Because I cropped it on purpose..and it's fuzzy not-on-purpose
). It's our board (our own layout, all etched and soldered by hand) with board populating in progress.
For the receiver radio and decoder section shown, the parts being discussed are pretty clear. The Holtek HT12D is clearly marked and the Infineon TDA5211 is the fine pitched IC. The SAW filter is the through-hole part on the far right with a red paint dot just barely visible. The 10.17xxx crystal was soldered to the pads to the left of the Infineon chip. We never got around to a full range test but it never failed in an array of environments and we spec'ed it at 100-300 foot range. Flourescent lights never posed a problem.
N
N_Jay
Guest
The problem with the fluorescent light has nothing to do with the radio and the encoding/decoding.
It has to do with the way cheap AC remote controls switch the AC. The "light" modules are designed to switch resistive loads only using a triac or variac.
Most companies also have "appliance" modules that us a a relay or other method that will switch any type of load.
It has to do with the way cheap AC remote controls switch the AC. The "light" modules are designed to switch resistive loads only using a triac or variac.
Most companies also have "appliance" modules that us a a relay or other method that will switch any type of load.
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Hey N_jay, what could I do to modify the receivers to allow it to switch a fluorescent lamp? Or would the relay idea be the simplest and most effective?
I have to admit I'm not sure what the difference is on a tungsten load vs. a resistive load. The back of the receivers say the following.
Maximum Resistive Load.....................1440w
Maximum Tungsten Load.....................1000w
Is this referring to the a types of light bulbs. I have a feeling resistive load is just that. Not sure what Tungsten is though. I'm confused because I can't use these to switch a fluorescent light.
EDIT: I just did some experimentation on my receivers and found that they do in fact switch a fluorescent lamp. I have took the info. from one manual and applied that knowledge to all my receivers. Because I have other types which are actually light switch types that go in the wall and these will not switch a fluorescent lamp. I tried it to see and it does flicker, not good. This makes sense because of the triac that is used directly rather than a relay. :lol:Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
I have to admit I'm not sure what the difference is on a tungsten load vs. a resistive load. The back of the receivers say the following.
Maximum Resistive Load.....................1440w
Maximum Tungsten Load.....................1000w
Is this referring to the a types of light bulbs. I have a feeling resistive load is just that. Not sure what Tungsten is though. I'm confused because I can't use these to switch a fluorescent light.
EDIT: I just did some experimentation on my receivers and found that they do in fact switch a fluorescent lamp. I have took the info. from one manual and applied that knowledge to all my receivers. Because I have other types which are actually light switch types that go in the wall and these will not switch a fluorescent lamp. I tried it to see and it does flicker, not good. This makes sense because of the triac that is used directly rather than a relay. :lol:Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
N
N_Jay
Guest
Tungsten lamps pull a lot of current while starting.
Other than that they are resistive.
DON'T put a tungten/resistive switch on a flourecent lamp, even if it "seems" to work.
The wave form that come in can cause the ballest to overheat and catch fire.
There are flourescent lamps marked for use with dimmers. These are OK.
Ther relay is the easiest way to do it.
If it is X-10 suff just get appliance modules.
P.S. There are lots of electrical codes that you probably should learn if any of this stuff is wired in rather then plug in.
Other than that they are resistive.
DON'T put a tungten/resistive switch on a flourecent lamp, even if it "seems" to work.
The wave form that come in can cause the ballest to overheat and catch fire.
There are flourescent lamps marked for use with dimmers. These are OK.
Ther relay is the easiest way to do it.
If it is X-10 suff just get appliance modules.
P.S. There are lots of electrical codes that you probably should learn if any of this stuff is wired in rather then plug in.
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I have pictures here to show what two types I have that seem to be alright for this. You can hear the click of a relay inside of them. So it seems that power is not directly going through a triac but rather the relay. There is no flickering when these two types are used. Only with the in wall kind that I tried for the hell off it regardless what the manual told me. :lol:
What is X-10? Are these the camera products out there? Where they can activate a particular device or something?
I will have to contact the city and a electrician about this idea. It's more or less just like wiring up a door bell only the transformer is used for a relay coil, and then there are some door bells that use a relay. I actually have wired many things in my house. Wait, do you smell something burning? :lol:
The only thing that worrys me is we have a 30 year old breaker box and most of the breakers are old. I like to get -GFCI- breakers. There is also some aluminum wiring too. Crappy crappy, can't use regular plugs and switchs and I wonder now if this idea will be acceptable. Copper twisted to aluminum line in. Hmmm.
Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
What is X-10? Are these the camera products out there? Where they can activate a particular device or something?
I will have to contact the city and a electrician about this idea. It's more or less just like wiring up a door bell only the transformer is used for a relay coil, and then there are some door bells that use a relay. I actually have wired many things in my house. Wait, do you smell something burning? :lol:
The only thing that worrys me is we have a 30 year old breaker box and most of the breakers are old. I like to get -GFCI- breakers. There is also some aluminum wiring too. Crappy crappy, can't use regular plugs and switchs and I wonder now if this idea will be acceptable. Copper twisted to aluminum line in. Hmmm.
Boo!-Poltergeisty :-0
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