Gorund Plane help?
- Thread starter crazyboy
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fmon
Silent Key Jan. 14, 2012
Yup, but won't last long due to oxidation. Stainless is your best bet.
N
N_Jay
Guest
crazyboy said:
What band?
I like 1/4 copper tubing.
What area of VHF?
If you go into the lower end of the band the element will get to be prety long. You will either need something to support it or just some copper tubing wil lstand up fine.
But ya an inside antenna with coat hanger elements wil work just fine.
If you go into the lower end of the band the element will get to be prety long. You will either need something to support it or just some copper tubing wil lstand up fine.
But ya an inside antenna with coat hanger elements wil work just fine.
Hi crazyboy and readers,
Once again for those who missed several of my previous posts. (;->)
A very good groundplane (worked for me) can be made from a flanged, chasis mount SO-239 connector and 5 19" lengths of 1/16" dia brazing rod. (You'll need 5 lengths to begin with, you can't make more than one element from one rod.)
Bend a small hook in the ends of 4 for the radials and solder them in, where and how they go is pretty obvious. (;->) Next file the protruding tips and any solder from the side where the PL-259 screws in, you want it flat. Cover the insulator with a gob of silicone bath tub caulk and let it set overnight. Congratulations, you have a groundplane that works very well on VHF (1/4 wave) and UHF (3/4 wave) for transmitting (for 2M/70cM make the elements 20", SWR < 1.5:1) as well as receiving.
Now you want to mount it. However you do it, a plain old 10" length of TV mast (Rat Shack) is ideal. Just shove the coax up through the mast and screw the PL-259 on, then spiral wrap with electrical tape beginning about 2" below the connector and cover it all the way up to the flange, stretching it as you go. Then one complete turn to cover exposed threads and back down again, leave the last turn un-stretched. This relieves tension so when the tape tries to shrink back it won't come loose and the end flap in the breeze. The weight of the coax will hold the antenna straight and firmly in place atop the mast.
"well I soldered the center conductor on, but couldn't get the radials to stick. any other ideas to connect them besides soldering?"
I saved the best for last, you forgot to prep the metal! Before soldering to the flange you must clean the surface. I found the best way is to use the file that you'll smooth out the bumps with when you solder the radials to it. Oh dear me, I see some of you need soldering lessons, I recommend Datatek School of Metal Bonding sometimes called Flux U. (;->)
BTW, at first using coat hangers seemed like a good idea, they solder well (if you do it right) and are fairly stiff so they won't bend. That is until a few months went by and they rusted. That was the second one I built, the first was made with 14AWG copper wire, that one morphed into a spider in the wind. The third was brass, that one held up nicely for several years, worked MIR and ISS on 2M with it as well as terrestrial stations for 30 miles around 5/9. (Ya gotta be a ham, hi.)
Now if you're building a VHF Lo Band antenna, that's another story, better cut down a CB antenna and be done with it.
Once again for those who missed several of my previous posts. (;->)
A very good groundplane (worked for me) can be made from a flanged, chasis mount SO-239 connector and 5 19" lengths of 1/16" dia brazing rod. (You'll need 5 lengths to begin with, you can't make more than one element from one rod.)
Bend a small hook in the ends of 4 for the radials and solder them in, where and how they go is pretty obvious. (;->) Next file the protruding tips and any solder from the side where the PL-259 screws in, you want it flat. Cover the insulator with a gob of silicone bath tub caulk and let it set overnight. Congratulations, you have a groundplane that works very well on VHF (1/4 wave) and UHF (3/4 wave) for transmitting (for 2M/70cM make the elements 20", SWR < 1.5:1) as well as receiving.
Now you want to mount it. However you do it, a plain old 10" length of TV mast (Rat Shack) is ideal. Just shove the coax up through the mast and screw the PL-259 on, then spiral wrap with electrical tape beginning about 2" below the connector and cover it all the way up to the flange, stretching it as you go. Then one complete turn to cover exposed threads and back down again, leave the last turn un-stretched. This relieves tension so when the tape tries to shrink back it won't come loose and the end flap in the breeze. The weight of the coax will hold the antenna straight and firmly in place atop the mast.
"well I soldered the center conductor on, but couldn't get the radials to stick. any other ideas to connect them besides soldering?"
I saved the best for last, you forgot to prep the metal! Before soldering to the flange you must clean the surface. I found the best way is to use the file that you'll smooth out the bumps with when you solder the radials to it. Oh dear me, I see some of you need soldering lessons, I recommend Datatek School of Metal Bonding sometimes called Flux U. (;->)
BTW, at first using coat hangers seemed like a good idea, they solder well (if you do it right) and are fairly stiff so they won't bend. That is until a few months went by and they rusted. That was the second one I built, the first was made with 14AWG copper wire, that one morphed into a spider in the wind. The third was brass, that one held up nicely for several years, worked MIR and ISS on 2M with it as well as terrestrial stations for 30 miles around 5/9. (Ya gotta be a ham, hi.)
Now if you're building a VHF Lo Band antenna, that's another story, better cut down a CB antenna and be done with it.
Al42
Member
One word, Warren - Krylon. I have a 2 meter wire hanger GP that's about 20 years old and not a sign of rust.kb2vxa said:
jas0nr7272
Member
I use a maxrad mobile to base adapter: http://www.maxrad.com/cgi/maxrad_products_ind.cgi?product=10167&catalog=10003
Hi jas0nr and all,
On several occasions I have fabricated inverted L brackets using sheet aluminium, NMO (or other) mounts and rod stock for radials. Oh, a Budd box works, waterproofing is a bit easier but bracketing it to a mast has it's problems.
I. M. Cheep (but resourceful).
On several occasions I have fabricated inverted L brackets using sheet aluminium, NMO (or other) mounts and rod stock for radials. Oh, a Budd box works, waterproofing is a bit easier but bracketing it to a mast has it's problems.
I. M. Cheep (but resourceful).
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