I am removing the two M120 UHF Motorola radios and I need to know which would be the better radio to upgrade to. 1-M1225 UHF 2-CDM1225 UHF 3-CM300 UHF. Also which one would be in the rick book? or were would I find the information on any of these three radios.
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GR300 Upgrade Radio Help
- Thread starter conehead
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WB0VHB
Member
The CDM would be my pick. However I don't think they will physically fit inside the GR300 housing without modification. I would stay away from the M1225 and CM300 as transmitter radios since their PA heatsink cooling isn't very good. Motorola used to have a notice on the M1225 price pages warning not to use the M1225 series in a repeater configuration.
I don't think you will find any of these radios in the RICK setup manual since the manual was written before these radios were even made. However you can find the RICK setup mentioned in the CDR750 repeater manual since Motorola supported the use of the CDM750/CDM1250 mobile in a repeater configuration. They call it a "basic" controller.
I don't think you will find any of these radios in the RICK setup manual since the manual was written before these radios were even made. However you can find the RICK setup mentioned in the CDR750 repeater manual since Motorola supported the use of the CDM750/CDM1250 mobile in a repeater configuration. They call it a "basic" controller.
RKG
Member
Hooking up a R*I*C*K to CDM 1250s or 1550s is quite simple. However, they, too, have a duty cycle limitation when used as repeater transmitters.
scottp1111
Member
I'm upgrading my gr500 to two cdm750s ... It's mounted in my shack.. I would go with CDM model...
While you are upgrading your GR300 change out the RICK. The Motorola R.I.C.K has several shortcomings. The ID-O-Matic II in the configuration shown in the link not only gives you the necessary CW ID, but it also processes audio and has all the timers you'd need for making a repeater with a pair of MaxTrac, Radius, GM300, or CDM mobile radios. This article shows some circuit improvements and how to wire the accessory connectors.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/maxtrac/files/id-o-matic-rick-rev2.pdf
http://www.repeater-builder.com/maxtrac/files/id-o-matic-rick-rev2.pdf
WQWG712
Member
Help
Hello, I traded my GR1225 Repeater for a GR300 Repeater with 2 M120 radios inside.
Ask me why, Idk it was a good friend and I thought if i Trade i would get a repeater i could later use the Power Supply and Case also easy replacement if a radio died.
I ran into Trouble once i swapped and picked up at local dealer for Duplexer/radio tuning.
The Dealer told me that the Controller on the GR300 repeater was bad. M120 radios inside GR300 BTW.
This being said i said no problem i have a spare Controller at my house that came out GR300 with 2 GM300's inside.
The dealer said it may work, He doesnt know but told me to give it a Try.
I went home and tested repeater and worked great!
Then i swapped out the Controller off M120 and Used GM300 Controller Turned on and radios never came on.
Tested radios with diff PSU and DEAD!
Is these 2 M120 Radios fixable?
I dont suspect Fuse blowing cause The Cords dont have Fuse plus the 16 Pin Cord had Voltage going into it so
I suspect the circute board to be fryed.
Any ideas??? Thanks!
Hello, I traded my GR1225 Repeater for a GR300 Repeater with 2 M120 radios inside.
Ask me why, Idk it was a good friend and I thought if i Trade i would get a repeater i could later use the Power Supply and Case also easy replacement if a radio died.
I ran into Trouble once i swapped and picked up at local dealer for Duplexer/radio tuning.
The Dealer told me that the Controller on the GR300 repeater was bad. M120 radios inside GR300 BTW.
This being said i said no problem i have a spare Controller at my house that came out GR300 with 2 GM300's inside.
The dealer said it may work, He doesnt know but told me to give it a Try.
I went home and tested repeater and worked great!
Then i swapped out the Controller off M120 and Used GM300 Controller Turned on and radios never came on.
Tested radios with diff PSU and DEAD!
Is these 2 M120 Radios fixable?
I dont suspect Fuse blowing cause The Cords dont have Fuse plus the 16 Pin Cord had Voltage going into it so
I suspect the circute board to be fryed.
Any ideas??? Thanks!
There is an internal fuse also, on the printed circuit board. Green and looks like a little peanut. On the PCB back by the 16 pin connector. First place I'd look. If they did blow, I'd be checking your controller and cabling to make sure they're all correct.
Project25_MASTR
Millennial Graying OBT Guy
Just out of curiosity, are you using the basic RICK or some of the more advanced Zentron i series controllers (also called RICKs when marketed with GR300/500 repeaters).
WQWG712
Member
M120 Dead
How would you know this exactly?
To be sure... These are 2 Motorola Raduis M120 radios.
Is the Fuse something sold over counter some where? If not where could i buy the fuse from and could you send me a picture of it on the motherboard if possible?
To rephrase what happened, I swapped the controllers out.
Here is 2 photos of the repeaters i have same as pictures show for each repeater.
The switch was bad on the M120 Controller so i changed to GM300 Controller and some how Killed both M120
Radios when swapped.
How would you know this exactly?
To be sure... These are 2 Motorola Raduis M120 radios.
Is the Fuse something sold over counter some where? If not where could i buy the fuse from and could you send me a picture of it on the motherboard if possible?
To rephrase what happened, I swapped the controllers out.
Here is 2 photos of the repeaters i have same as pictures show for each repeater.
The switch was bad on the M120 Controller so i changed to GM300 Controller and some how Killed both M120
Radios when swapped.
Attachments
WQWG712
Member
M120 wont turn on
Thanks, I did check the Cables and did see a disconnected Blue wire which came out some how, but i did placed wire back inside where it belongs and used fresh zip tie.
I checked the M120 Cable color codes, and it did match the GM300 color codes cables....
From my reseach everyone is saying that the 16 Pin was put on backwards or Shorted out with different pin.
Its fixable if i replace internal Fuse like you say. Thank you so much!!!
here is a link
Motorola GM300 Not powering up - Batboard
Thanks, I did check the Cables and did see a disconnected Blue wire which came out some how, but i did placed wire back inside where it belongs and used fresh zip tie.
I checked the M120 Cable color codes, and it did match the GM300 color codes cables....
From my reseach everyone is saying that the 16 Pin was put on backwards or Shorted out with different pin.
Its fixable if i replace internal Fuse like you say. Thank you so much!!!
here is a link
Motorola GM300 Not powering up - Batboard
WQWG712
Member
who is Rick?
Sorry, Very inexperienced with GR300 ect... I just use it for GMRS.
I took the controller out of the M120 GR and used a GM300 Controller with Circle Buttons and it killed both my radios.
I took my radio to the shop dealer and the Internal fuses was blown. Will send pics soon
Project25_MASTR
Millennial Graying OBT Guy
There are a few differences between the logic on the masked board radios (M120) and 16 channel GM300s. Repeater Builder had the GR300/500 manuals.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WQWG712
Member
just trying to clarify what your saying....
will the controller off the CDR700 or M120 radios work with GR/GM300
will the controller off the CDR700 or M120 radios work with GR/GM300
There is no "controller" per say in the GR300, and other variants.
The R.I.C.K., Radio Interface Communications Kit., is just an simple interface that goes in between the two radios. That is the top 'unit' in your photo. Same dammed R.I.C.K. was used with the Maxtrac, GM300, M120 and CDM radios, kind of a very piss poor design, I mentioned that many years ago in this topic. And IS KNOWN to kill radios.
Step ONE test each radio separately with a regulated FUSED power supply. You will need the 16 pin jumper in the back of the radio.
For the first step use a ONE amp fuse, see if the radio turns on. Second step you can go to a 3 amp fuse, check the receiver by holding the MON and receiver should un-squelch.
Do NOT connect the radios to the 16 pin cables yet and let me know if the radios work.
I can walk you thru the fix for the cables.
The R.I.C.K., Radio Interface Communications Kit., is just an simple interface that goes in between the two radios. That is the top 'unit' in your photo. Same dammed R.I.C.K. was used with the Maxtrac, GM300, M120 and CDM radios, kind of a very piss poor design, I mentioned that many years ago in this topic. And IS KNOWN to kill radios.
Step ONE test each radio separately with a regulated FUSED power supply. You will need the 16 pin jumper in the back of the radio.
For the first step use a ONE amp fuse, see if the radio turns on. Second step you can go to a 3 amp fuse, check the receiver by holding the MON and receiver should un-squelch.
Do NOT connect the radios to the 16 pin cables yet and let me know if the radios work.
I can walk you thru the fix for the cables.
WQWG712
Member
Attachments
WQWG712
Member
While we still on this topic of the Green internal Fuse....
Where can i buy this fuse?
if not sold any idea how to repair this so i can blow fuse again if something goes wrong. I sure hate to solder
and for this to happen again and toast radio.
Thanks!
Where can i buy this fuse?
if not sold any idea how to repair this so i can blow fuse again if something goes wrong. I sure hate to solder
and for this to happen again and toast radio.
Thanks!
Well you found the fuse, good. However in your picture it shows the fuse cut and lifted. This is done to enable ignition sense. When this is done, not only do you have to power the red lead, but you also have to apply 12 volts on pin 10 of the accessory connector to get the radio to come on. Swapping the controllers may not give the 12 volts on pin 10 that you'd need. This would look like a dead radio.
Use an omelet to see if it's still good. If it is, just tack solder it back onto the board. Now you don't need worry about pin 10.
If it is a bad fuse, I just went to Amazon and searched "Pico fuse" and a bunch came up.
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
Use an omelet to see if it's still good. If it is, just tack solder it back onto the board. Now you don't need worry about pin 10.
If it is a bad fuse, I just went to Amazon and searched "Pico fuse" and a bunch came up.
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Mmmmm, omelets......
Don't you just love spellchecker.
He meant ohm meter. Check for continuity from one side of the fuse to the other. If you want to try a couple of eggs instead, that's none of my business.
:lol:
No no no. Remove the fuse and insert into an omelet. If there is current flow between the bell pepper and the ham you can deduce the fuse is good.
No no no. Remove the fuse and insert into an omelet. If there is current flow between the bell pepper and the ham you can deduce the fuse is good.
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