Heavy Duty Scantenna

[y10kiscoming]

In the next few weeks I plan to purchase and set up the Heavy Duty Scantenna:
http://www.antennawarehouse.com/Scanner/Scantenna.htm

I am wondering about the mast... I've read that using a metal mast causes the antenna to become semi-directional. My current plan is PVC pipe. Are there any specific types that I should use? How long can I make the mast without worrying about stability? I live in a very hilly area (unfortunately near the bottom of one of them) so I want the antenna as high as possible (within FCC and FAA limits of course). Also, I have seen that people "weatherproof" the connection from the cable to the antenna... is this required?

Anyone else with tips about mounting a Scantenna would be appreciated.

BEWARE RUBBER DUCKY, YOUR DAYS ARE NUMBERED!!!

-Mark

 

[Al42]

Since the antenna comes down 55" from the mounting point, you could use a 55" piece of PVC (plus about 15" to allow for 3" above the antenna mount and 12" to connect to the rest of the mast) to eliminate directionality, then go to heavy-duty aluminum for the rest. I wouldn't make the mast any longer than 10 feet above the topmost guy wires, but check the specs on the mast material you'll be using for maximum longitudinal load and weight/foot. Set it up with a lot less load than that - that's a maximum figure.

Waterproofing the connections is only required if you want them to last. If you're okay with replacing the cable every year you don't have to waterproof it.

 

[fuzzymoto]

I have the ST-2 which looks like it is the same antenna. I reinforced the vertical element with an old bicycle flag fiberglass mast because of the weakness many of the older scantenna demonstrated. I have mine on the roof on a 10-foot mast with no guy wires. I think the higher you go the more you will need that sort of support. Practical height depends on your situation (wind, mast setup, weather...). I have mine mounted half way down the 10-foot mast with a RS 20-176 at the top of the mast. I don't see any obvious directional indications in mine but I'm not sure I'd be able to tell. I did aim it toward the south which crosses many of the agencies I want but agencies in other directions still seem to come in fine. Most of what I listen to is in the 150-160 range but I do listen to quite a bit in the 450-470 and 40-50 ranges with no problems.

I would think even heavy PVC beyond a certain height will flex but I don't have any experience with that.

As far as weatherproofing absolutely YES. I used Radio Shack coax seal. It's like tape but sort of rubbery like tar. I've read way too many stories about signal loss because of water penetration so be sure to seal EVERY connection. I sealed the connection to the antenna and the connection to both sides of my grounding block also. This is a step you do NOT want to leave out.

By the way my ST-2 came from eBay and was cheaper with shipping than the one you listed. Perhaps it is a different antenna but I believe most of them are exactly the same.

I've been very happy with mine. It works great.

 

[y10kiscoming]

I sealed the connection to the antenna and the connection to both sides of my grounding block also. This is a step you do NOT want to leave out.

That was my other question... grounding... how exactly do you go about that with the Scantenna?

By the way my ST-2 came from eBay and was cheaper with shipping than the one you listed. Perhaps it is a different antenna but I believe most of them are exactly the same.

Yes and no. It's the same type, probably made by the same place, but the one I linked to is a newer version, made with thicker parts for durability. I'm willing to pay for it. None of the other sites I found have the "heavy duty" version of it.

-Mark

 

[RISC777]

Wonder why they never show the thing with the balun (or/and any feedline)?

Strap tape (metal roll, with the holes in it), or a hose clamp. Clamp the bar and run your ground line down (if you're going the PVC mast route). Otherwise, just ground the mast.

 

[fuzzymoto]

Actually I think they are the same....the ST-2 is the version of the Scantenna with heavier elements also....at least I think they all come from the same place.

I ran one grounding wire from the antenna mast to a grounding rod. I ran a second grounding wire from a grounding block to a grounding rod. The grounding block is F-type with female connectors on both sides. I have a F-type RG6 coax from my antenna to my grounding block and another longer cable from the grounding block to my scanners.

I STILL DISCONNECT MY SCANNERS IN THE SUMMER! Just to be safe since I live up pretty high and I'm sure my level of gronding will not survive a near miss.

 

[trooperdude]

In the next few weeks I plan to purchase and set up the Heavy Duty Scantenna:
http://www.antennawarehouse.com/Scanner/Scantenna.htm

First thing to do is get rid of the cheap RG-6 cable that comes with it and invest in some Quad-shield RG-6 that's rated for 2 ghz.

I sprayed mine first (after masking the electrical connections) with a coat of clear urethane.

Make a good electrical connection and wrap all contacts with coax tape.

Make a rain loop in the coax and wire tie it all the way down the mast.

I actually WANTED directionality on mine because of a high-level transmitter site on the hills behind my house, so I used 20 ft of aluminum mast. I would NOT go any higher without guy wires.

The antenna survived a nasty California winter with heavy winds with only one of the side elements folding in on itself. Easy to remedy with 10 minutes of time and a fiberglass shovel handle to bend it back in place.

We will see if it survives another winter.

 

[n4voxgill]

I had to build a non-radiating support for a dipole antenna. I bought the light weight PVC, 2 inch, and bought treated 2X2. You have to take a knife or plane and trim down the four corners of the lumber and then it will slide inside the PVC pipe and make it rigid.

 

[gbeck41]

PVC pipe

I would not recommend using pvc pipe unless like the others said to re enforce the inside of the pipe. I am a electrician. Even tho the NEC says that you can use non-metallic rigid pipe on serivce, most states wont allow it due to its cracking in cold weather or flexible in high winds. They do make 2 types of pvc schedule 40 and 80. Schedule 80 is stronger and more money.

 

[N_Jay]

1) The metal mast will not make it directional enouygh to worry about.

2) I don't know the quality of the RG-6 that comes with it, but "quad shielded" is not needed for a receiver (and is no assurance of quality either).

3) If you want 800 MHz, then get GOOD cable from a reputable manufacturer.

4) Secure the cable with good tape, not wire ties (unless it is truly hard-line)