• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Help

Status
Not open for further replies.

Fromps

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
1
Please help! I have a 102" ss whip on a radio shack ball mount attached to the driver side of my aluminum truck tool box. I have the rg58 attached to the antenna and the grounding braid from the coax attached to the mount. From that same ground mounting point I have ran a 10 g ground wire to the hood of the tool box. From the toolbox hood ground point I continued another 10 g ground wire to the truck frame on the driver side. additionally, I have ran a ground wire from the original ball mount ground point to the truck bed. My Swr reads 3.0 on chan 1 And pegs the meter on chan 40........ It was reading at 3.5 on chan 1 but when I added the hood and truck bed ground it went down to 3.0..... What am I doing wrong? Where else can I ground? My ground wire from the toolbox hood to frame is about 3-5 ft long and that was the closest location to attach to frame. I removed all paint, so there is a good connection. The toolbox is black but again, paint was removed for connection points. I am using a separate SWR reader and not the cb's. It's a cobra 29.. It's the new one with a digital screen. ANy suggestions..... Also, why am I able to pick up NOAA signals but no trucker traffic?

Thanks in advance,
Fromps
 

LtDoc

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
2,145
Location
Oklahoma
The best way of thinking about this is that the whip is only half of the antenna, the vehicle's metal is the other half. So, the center conductor of that coax feed line should attach to the whip, the braid conductor should attach to the vehicle's body (at the ball-mount's attachment to the tool box should be good for that body connection). Since it's mounted to the tool box, then that tool box should be connected to the rest of the truck through the truck's bed etc. That's usually done by the bolts that hold that tool box to the truck bed. Making sure the truck bed is electrically attached to the frame is a good idea, sometimes it may not be. And while you're at it, why not make sure the rest of the truck, the cab, fenders, motor, exhaust pipe, etc, are also attached, or grounded to the truck's frame? (That assumes that the tool box is metal, right?) I've found that using 'star' washers with 'teeth' going in both directions work well for making that electrical connection between things. After that, adding additional wires/cables for a 'better' ground is a waste of time. Shouldn't hurt, but just not necessary.
That 102" whip isn't tuned for 11 meters to start with, it's just a generic length of whip. And depending on the mount, what the antenna is near, and the color of socks you're wearing, it's seldom the right length for 11 meters (CB band). You have to check that, it's part of tuning an antenna (any of them). Just bolting everything together should get a better SWR than a 3:1. So, you have something 'not right' about the whole thing.
The easiest way of checking for the right length using an SWR meter is by making that 102" whip a little longer. Use a piece of wire or solder to do that. Wrap it around the tip of the whip so that it extends a couple or three inches taller. Then, by sliding that wire extension up or down, find the lowest SWR you can. You should find some total length of that whip and extension that will give you a better than 3:1 SWR. If not, then there's a problem in how the whip and mount are put together, or the connections of the feed line, or in fairly rare cases, with the feed line it's self. (It's a good idea to do all that tuning away from stuff, not parked next to the house, or trees etc. that lessens the affect of things near the antenna.)
Don't expect to get a 1:1 SWR, that very seldom happens. But it should certainly be lower than 3:1, and I would expect it to be somewhere around 1.5:1 maybe.
there are lots of possibilities for not having things 'right', so it's just a matter of finding what isn't 'right' and correcting it. That's awful hard to do 'second hand', not being able to actually see what's happening, so, you have to tell us how it goes.
Good luck.
- 'Doc
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top