I neeed detailed info
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DiGiTaLD
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zomg wiki search!!!11!!!111!!1
http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Pro_93/95/96_Tap
Get a piece of shielded cable, i.e. mono headphone cable. My PRO-93 is tapped with a piece of mono headphone cable with a mono 3.5mm plug on the end that plugs right into the line in on the back of my computer.
Solder the shielding of the cable onto the silver box pictured in the link, the center conductor onto TP4, and you'll have a tap. Run your piece of headphone cable out the battery compartment of your 93 and plug it into your PC for discriminator decoding action fast! If you want to install a jack, you are looking at more parts and a more involved mod, but if you can figure out how to take the radio apart you should be able to figure out how to put a jack in it.
http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Pro_93/95/96_Tap
Get a piece of shielded cable, i.e. mono headphone cable. My PRO-93 is tapped with a piece of mono headphone cable with a mono 3.5mm plug on the end that plugs right into the line in on the back of my computer.
Solder the shielding of the cable onto the silver box pictured in the link, the center conductor onto TP4, and you'll have a tap. Run your piece of headphone cable out the battery compartment of your 93 and plug it into your PC for discriminator decoding action fast! If you want to install a jack, you are looking at more parts and a more involved mod, but if you can figure out how to take the radio apart you should be able to figure out how to put a jack in it.
First of all thank very much for the info.
, I am not technically inclined when it comes to messing with the insides of a scanner & soldering.. When & if I can find some one nearby to do one I will give it a try, I had questions about some say a resistor will be needed or a capacitor etc etc. that got me even more lost & confused
Thanks
Paul
, I am not technically inclined when it comes to messing with the insides of a scanner & soldering.. When & if I can find some one nearby to do one I will give it a try, I had questions about some say a resistor will be needed or a capacitor etc etc. that got me even more lost & confusedThanks
Paul
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DiGiTaLD
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PRO-93 Tap
Nah, its no big deal doing one of these. I've never needed any additional components in my tap setup on my 93, and its been working reliably for over a year now. YMMV based on your audio card setup, however.
Basically all you'd have to do to put a jack in is use a piece of shielded cable without an end on it, drill a small hole in the back of the case in a suitable position, put the jack in that hole, and solder the ends of the cable that aren't soldered to TP4 and the on-board shielding to the appropriate spots on the jack.
This is what I mean about using a piece of mono headphone lead. I got this off the back of an older piece of stereo equipment, it was a remote control signal pickup from one component feeding another component in a multi-unit system. Any similar piece will do. All you really need is a piece of shielded mono cable, you can get connectors of whatever size you want to put on it. This was just convenient for my needs at the time when I did the tap job.
The shield of this cable is attached to the "silver box" shielding RF components on the 93's board, and the center conductor is attached to TP4. I used some hot glue to hold it in place inside the radio, and just ran it out where the battery terminals are located. Of course this keeps you from being able to easily use a battery, but that didn't matter to me because this is a tapped radio feeding discriminator audio to a PC 24/7 and it is connected to an external wall wart power supply. I cut a crude notch in the battery cover to accomodate the tap wire, so I could still use the battery cover and keep the radio sitting upright more easily. The last pic is pretty self explanatory, showing the end of the tap line plugging into the back of the PC.
Mods, this could probably be moved to the Radio Shack Scanners section.
Nah, its no big deal doing one of these. I've never needed any additional components in my tap setup on my 93, and its been working reliably for over a year now. YMMV based on your audio card setup, however.
Basically all you'd have to do to put a jack in is use a piece of shielded cable without an end on it, drill a small hole in the back of the case in a suitable position, put the jack in that hole, and solder the ends of the cable that aren't soldered to TP4 and the on-board shielding to the appropriate spots on the jack.
This is what I mean about using a piece of mono headphone lead. I got this off the back of an older piece of stereo equipment, it was a remote control signal pickup from one component feeding another component in a multi-unit system. Any similar piece will do. All you really need is a piece of shielded mono cable, you can get connectors of whatever size you want to put on it. This was just convenient for my needs at the time when I did the tap job.
The shield of this cable is attached to the "silver box" shielding RF components on the 93's board, and the center conductor is attached to TP4. I used some hot glue to hold it in place inside the radio, and just ran it out where the battery terminals are located. Of course this keeps you from being able to easily use a battery, but that didn't matter to me because this is a tapped radio feeding discriminator audio to a PC 24/7 and it is connected to an external wall wart power supply. I cut a crude notch in the battery cover to accomodate the tap wire, so I could still use the battery cover and keep the radio sitting upright more easily. The last pic is pretty self explanatory, showing the end of the tap line plugging into the back of the PC.
Mods, this could probably be moved to the Radio Shack Scanners section.
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ok, again thanks for all the info & help. I've save all this to my HD & wil pass it to some1 I think may be able to do it. I may feel enough to try it myself, The scanner is just laying in a drawer not being used at all right now
Paul
Paul
FlashSWT
Member
Alabama, don't be scared to give it a try. I had absolutely zero soldering experience before I tapped a Pro 92 and Pro 93 last year. I watched my brother in law try it first but we didn't have a good ground so I had to open them up again and fix it myself. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be.
I'll try to open them back up next week and take some good photos on my setup in case anyone else would find them useful. That was the one thing I forgot, documenting it as we went along.
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I'll try to open them back up next week and take some good photos on my setup in case anyone else would find them useful. That was the one thing I forgot, documenting it as we went along.
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slicerwizard
Member
That may be so, but it's still bad advice. A direct connection isn't good for the scanner, the sound card, or the decoding software.
OK, Apppreciate it.. I may give it a try this weekend, But I need a solder iron tho... right>??
slicerwizard
Member
I would suggest not hammering the sound card with the full strength discriminator signal. Isolating the scanner's internal circuitry from the outside world is also a good idea. Just wire it as shown:
Resisitor values are not critical; try R1=47k, R2=20k.
C should be a 10 uF tantalum capacitor. It keeps any DC voltage on either device away from the other. The negative lead goes to the sound card.
Test your completed tap by tuning to a strong control channel and then examine the waveform on your PC with either a realtime scope program or an audio recording application. The digital levels should be clearly visible (2 levels for a 3600 bps Motorola control channel, 4 levels for a 9600 bps P25 control channel)
Code:
discriminator----R1----+----C------------------------->
|
R2 shielded cable sound card (mic in)
|
ground-----------------+------------------------------>Resisitor values are not critical; try R1=47k, R2=20k.
C should be a 10 uF tantalum capacitor. It keeps any DC voltage on either device away from the other. The negative lead goes to the sound card.
Test your completed tap by tuning to a strong control channel and then examine the waveform on your PC with either a realtime scope program or an audio recording application. The digital levels should be clearly visible (2 levels for a 3600 bps Motorola control channel, 4 levels for a 9600 bps P25 control channel)
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Dang, it looks like a I need to go in a change one of my discrim taps. Didn't add a cap. And this sound card is no cheapy.
Unitrunker comes with Uniscope that could be used as well.
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Science-CAD/Oscilloscope.shtml
Unitrunker comes with Uniscope that could be used as well.
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Science-CAD/Oscilloscope.shtml
fmon
Silent Key Jan. 14, 2012
Tap at TP4 off pin 9 of IC8.
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