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Icom F6020 HELP!

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csmith423

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We have a 6 year old UHF LMR in the truck that talks to a series of handhelds on job sites as well as other mobile LMRs. Yesterday a worker plugged their DC cooler into the truck socket and blew a fuse. Fuse was replaced, cooler removed, but somehow that circuit issue caused our LMR to crash. No inline fuses were blown on the radio, and it powers up just fine. It will Tx/Rx to a portable that is within 100 yrds/mtrs, but beyond a couple hundred meters it's now a $600 paperweight.

Has anyone else had this issue? Any solutions, Hints? Tips? Tricks?

Thanks in advance
 

mmckenna

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Which fuses were tapped?
Were any of them the accessory/lighter socket? Either for main radio power or ignition sense circuits?

Couple of recommendations:
Go through every inch of the power wire, check and double check every single connection. Pay close attention to any crimp connectors. Pull on them and make sure they are not loose. Pay close attention to the inline fuse connectors, those are notorious for failing. If any of the crimp connectors are questionable, replace them.

Make sure the ground is good. Radio power ground should go to the vehicle body. Make sure the connection is tight. A high current draw from the cooler, if its on the same circuit as the radio, could pull enough through the ground connection to damage something.

Get a watt meter and check the RF output. Make sure all your coaxial connections are good.

If you have a multimeter and are good with it, you may be able to find your fault that way, but actually checking all the wiring/connections is a good idea. I'm thinking that one of the connections went bad, but it could be something else. It's a good place to start looking.

Once you get it all figured out, you really need to address the wiring. Commercial radio manufacturers have pretty rigid specs for installation. Every -reputable- radio manufacturer will train/instruct installers to always pull power directly off the battery. Using fuse taps is a really bad idea, and you won't see them on any good public safety radio installs. Rerun the positive power lead direct to the positive terminal on your battery. Install a suitable sized fuse as close as you safely can to the battery.
The negative power lead for the radio should be run to body steel.

Never tap radio power off existing wiring or from cigarette lighter plugs. At least not if you want it to be reliable.
 

csmith423

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Which fuses were tapped?
Were any of them the accessory/lighter socket? Either for main radio power or ignition sense circuits?

Couple of recommendations:
Go through every inch of the power wire, check and double check every single connection. Pay close attention to any crimp connectors. Pull on them and make sure they are not loose. Pay close attention to the inline fuse connectors, those are notorious for failing. If any of the crimp connectors are questionable, replace them.

Make sure the ground is good. Radio power ground should go to the vehicle body. Make sure the connection is tight. A high current draw from the cooler, if its on the same circuit as the radio, could pull enough through the ground connection to damage something.

Get a watt meter and check the RF output. Make sure all your coaxial connections are good.

If you have a multimeter and are good with it, you may be able to find your fault that way, but actually checking all the wiring/connections is a good idea. I'm thinking that one of the connections went bad, but it could be something else. It's a good place to start looking.

Once you get it all figured out, you really need to address the wiring. Commercial radio manufacturers have pretty rigid specs for installation. Every -reputable- radio manufacturer will train/instruct installers to always pull power directly off the battery. Using fuse taps is a really bad idea, and you won't see them on any good public safety radio installs. Rerun the positive power lead direct to the positive terminal on your battery. Install a suitable sized fuse as close as you safely can to the battery.
The negative power lead for the radio should be run to body steel.

Never tap radio power off existing wiring or from cigarette lighter plugs. At least not if you want it to be reliable.
I will try to address these point in no particular order.
1) all antenna connections are good. No watt meter, but antenna work on other radio.
2) power tapped off existing circut under hood due to need for radios to shut off with ignition. Reason: boss said so. Too often radios left on overnight and drain vehicle battery. We live/work in a very remote location and often no where near another vehicle for boosting.
3) I will check the power leads, and hook directly to battery and see if that makes a difference.
4) Ground is good, as it completes the circuit. Ohm meter reads 0 when tested but thinking I may go to a larger gauge wire (16 may be too small) as this is a 45 watt radio and runs a lot of amps thru the circuit.

Will go attack these solutions now, but if anyone has any other suggestions I am wide open!
Thanks for all your help mmckenna
 

12dbsinad

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Check the voltage at the back of the radio during transmit. Make sure it's adequate and not causing the radio to "fold down". It may read fine just sitting receiving because it doesn't draw hardly anything. If good, your next step would be a wattmeter to check RF power out and the antenna system. It's kind of hard to tell what the radio is doing RF wise without a meter.

I agree with mmckenna. Never tap off a existing circuit, these radios draw a fair amount, typically 12-14 amps during TX. If you need it on/off with the key the solution is simple. Install a 30 amp horn style relay. You'd be pulling power directly from the battery and using your fuse tap to switch the coil of the relay to turn on/off. The coil draws very little (like 250ma or less) so using a fuse tap for this application is fine.

Remember, when you tap a existing circuit that circuit has to run whatever it's powering plus your radio. Newer vehicle wiring is typically small and only designed to run what it's intended to.
 

12dbsinad

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Also, when checking voltage make sure you check it across the positive and negative of the power cord. Don't ground the meter elsewhere and check just the positive.
 

mmckenna

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I will try to address these point in no particular order.
1) all antenna connections are good. No watt meter, but antenna work on other radio.

OK. Unlikely that's an issue, but it's worth a check. A basic watt meter would be a valuable tool and likely pay for itself by allowing you to do some basic troubleshooting without engaging a shop.

2) power tapped off existing circut under hood due to need for radios to shut off with ignition. Reason: boss said so. Too often radios left on overnight and drain vehicle battery. We live/work in a very remote location and often no where near another vehicle for boosting.

OK, I can understand that.
Most commercial radios have a "ignition sense" circuit. It's a separate wire that you connect to an ignition switched circuit. The radio gets hardwired to the battery. The ignition switched circuit will turn the radio on/off with the truck. some will even allow you to program a delay, so the radio will stay on ##minutes after you shut the truck off. 12dbsinad's suggestion about a relay will work, also.
Other option is to use a product like a Lind Timer. It's essentially the 30 amp relay mentioned above, but with a built in timer. You connect it to the battery and connect the radio + lead to that. There's a connection for ground and the ignition sense lead. Set the timer to what you want. When the truck starts, the radio is powered up. When the truck is shut off, it'll disconnect the power to the radio, either immediately, or after a set amount of time.
You can even get ones that sense when the engine is running by noticing the voltage rise from the alternator.

Takes a bit more effort to install, but addresses the "whoops, I left the radio on" issue. I run them in all my personal vehicles. Never had a radio drag the battery down.

While your boss may not agree, a good radio shop can do all this stuff for you. It will prevent a lot of issues like this. As said, the radio needs to be powered directly off the battery. Tapping into existing circuits is going to lead to issues, just like what you had.

$22 USD. Lidnd 12 volt DC shut down timer for Laptops, 2 way radios. Used | eBay


3) I will check the power leads, and hook directly to battery and see if that makes a difference.

OK. Like 12db said above, voltage drop from an undersized circuit will cause the RF power to drop if it's starving for electricity. That can be caused by bad connections, undersized wire, too much wire, bad ground, etc.

4) Ground is good, as it completes the circuit. Ohm meter reads 0 when tested but thinking I may go to a larger gauge wire (16 may be too small) as this is a 45 watt radio and runs a lot of amps thru the circuit.

yeah, that's kind of undersized. It should work with that, but depending on how long the circuit is, it could be starving. If whatever popped the fuse also stressed that circuit, it might need to be completely disassembled and checked. Check all the connections. If it's attached to a body ground, make sure the paint is scraped clean and there is a really good metal to metal contact.

A meter showing 0Ω is one thing, but it might show more resistance when pulling a 15 amp load.

Keep the power/ground wires as short as you can. If someone bundled up all the extra wire under the dash/engine compartment, you may want to fix that.

Will go attack these solutions now, but if anyone has any other suggestions I am wide open!
Thanks for all your help mmckenna

You are welcome.


If you guys really depend on these radios, then it may be well worth taking them to a shop for a proper installation. Or, try it yourself. It can make a difference. It will cost you some money, but it'll pay off in the long run with more reliable communications, less dead batteries, less getting stuck out in the mountains.

If your antennas are not a permanent mount type, as in actually having a hole drilled in the truck roof, that's another way you can boost performance easily. Magmounts and brackets usually sap some of the performance out of things.[/QUOTE]
 

csmith423

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So, thanks for everyones help. Problem solved! The coil on the antenna had "burned out".
After spending HOURS measuring ohms and volts, it came down to a "stinky" antenna coil. I have NO idea how the worker killed the antenna, and it may have noting to do with the original issue of the food cooler blowing a fuse, but after speaking to the worker again, it would appear that the whole issue began during an electrical storm and somehow the coil melted. A 1 in a MILLION shot but hey, now I know whats wrong and a quick fix.
Again, thanks a bunch for everyones input. Thats why I love this forum.
 

csmith423

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So far just the coil. I replaced the coil and adjusted the whip to the new coil (measured the 25 1/4 inch length.

Thinking an RF SWR meter is going on my xmas list. :)
 
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