Looking for a recommended installer in San Antonio area

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Firekite

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Can anyone strongly recommend a good installer in the SA area who actually knows what they’re doing and will do a good job installing a couple of NMO mounts in my F250’s roof? I know I can physically do it myself, but I’ve fought with my headliner before and really don’t want to do so again. The only thing I really learned from the experience is I don’t like it :)

I have the hardware, just need it installed by someone who knows what they’re doing and takes pride in a job well done.

Thanks in advance!
 

PACNWDude

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San Antonio, just stay away from Bearcom, unless you want the headliner to leak from terribly installed NMO mounts. It is sad to see $80k Suburbans that have a leaky roof from amateurs trying to install NMO antenna mounts.
 

tyler3328

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Send me a message. I am in that area and do many if the agencies apparatuses throughout the AACOG/MRG area. Attached is a 2022 Ram5500 for an agency I just did and the 2013 F150 is my personal
 

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Firekite

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What year is the F250?
2011

No need to drop the headliner. I've done a bunch of those trucks with multiple mounts and never once had to drop it.
I did my 2018 F250 earlier this year and did not drop the headliner.
Then how are y’all doing it? Drill a hole from above, run a fish tape to the edge, and pull it over and up that way? There’s a mess of side curtain airbags and other wiring in there, including my 3rd-eye brake light bed camera I installed for which I tried to avoid dropping the headliner to run it and failed. There’s also a crossmember in there somewhere I wouldn’t want to hit.

Send me a message.
Will do, thanks! I’ll be ready probably in about a week to 2 weeks.
 

mmckenna

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Then how are y’all doing it? Drill a hole from above, run a fish tape to the edge, and pull it over and up that way? There’s a mess of side curtain airbags and other wiring in there, including my 3rd-eye brake light bed camera I installed for which I tried to avoid dropping the headliner to run it and failed. There’s also a crossmember in there somewhere I wouldn’t want to hit.

A true NMO hole saw will have a design that limits how deep it'll drill.

You drill the hole from the outside and then feed the cable in the direction you want it to go (to the side of the cab, or rear to the back) Then fish it with a coat hanger to pull it to where you can reach it.
Routing around the airbags isn't much of an issue. if you go to the rear of the cab, just drop down the back corner. If you go to the side, you route the cable up against the roof and above the airbag, then down the pillar.
Other option is to remove the dome light and visualize from there.

If you take it to an installer, they'll do the exact same thing, and hopefully route it correctly. Or, you do it yourself and know for certain it's done correctly. You can also make sure you are using good quality materials, not cheap Chinese antenna mounts.

You can do some research on where others have mounted their antennas, and hopefully they included measurements so you can go in the exact same location. Or, you carefully pull down the edge of the headliner and visualize things to avoid hitting cross members. Takes a bit of skill, but it's not difficult.
There's probably tens of thousands of heavy duty Fords of that era running around with permanent antenna installs.

I honestly don't remember the last time I actually dropped a headliner to do an install.
 

Firekite

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A true NMO hole saw will have a design that limits how deep it'll drill.
Right, I actually have the Laird HS34 around here somewhere. What I mean is the dead center of the roof seems like an ideal spot with a 2m 1/4 wave distance all around it, but I don’t know if I’ll catch the edge of a crossmember, drop into the middle of it with no way of getting into it, etc. For this era of 4-door truck the dome light isn’t in the center but instead behind the rear passengers’s head just in front of the rear window.

You can do some research on where others have mounted their antennas, and hopefully they included measurements so you can go in the exact same location.
Sadly and inexplicably there’s precious little info out there.

I honestly don't remember the last time I actually dropped a headliner to do an install.
I didn’t mean dropping the headliner entirely, just enough to get into where I can see and figure it out. The B pillars area of the headliner are held up by the plastic cladding around shoulder seat belt mounts with no obvious (to me) way of getting them off or even manipulating them out of the way enough to get a few inches of drop. The whole thing is an exercise in frustration for me. I’m sure someone who’s done a few before is laughing saying it’s not that bad, but as much stuff as I’ve done before on my own this is maddening.
 

mmckenna

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Right, I actually have the Laird HS34 around here somewhere. What I mean is the dead center of the roof seems like an ideal spot with a 2m 1/4 wave distance all around it, but I don’t know if I’ll catch the edge of a crossmember, drop into the middle of it with no way of getting into it, etc. For this era of 4-door truck the dome light isn’t in the center but instead behind the rear passengers’s head just in front of the rear window.

Yep, like my 2011 F-150. The channel was about 2" wide running front/back down the center. I drilled my holes and just ran the coax back towards the dome light. When you remove the dome light, there's a hole just in front of it you can snake the coax out of and over to the rear corner of the cab. Was actually a really easy install, and worked well.


I didn’t mean dropping the headliner entirely, just enough to get into where I can see and figure it out. The B pillars area of the headliner are held up by the plastic cladding around shoulder seat belt mounts with no obvious (to me) way of getting them off or even manipulating them out of the way enough to get a few inches of drop. The whole thing is an exercise in frustration for me. I’m sure someone who’s done a few before is laughing saying it’s not that bad, but as much stuff as I’ve done before on my own this is maddening.

I hear ya.
It takes some work to find the trick. You may have to remove the top seat belt mount, usually a big Torx head bolt. There may alos be a small square trim piece that gets removed and has a 7mm bolt under it. Usually removing that will let you pull it free of the clips and out of the way.

But, yeah, if you don't do it frequently, it's tough. New model trucks always are a challenge, until you get one under your belt.
If it is a challenge, there's no shame in taking it to a shop, or finding someone who's done a few and will do it for you. The time savings alone may make financial sense.
 

900mhz

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Yep, like my 2011 F-150. The channel was about 2" wide running front/back down the center. I drilled my holes and just ran the coax back towards the dome light. When you remove the dome light, there's a hole just in front of it you can snake the coax out of and over to the rear corner of the cab. Was actually a really easy install, and worked well.




I hear ya.
It takes some work to find the trick. You may have to remove the top seat belt mount, usually a big Torx head bolt. There may alos be a small square trim piece that gets removed and has a 7mm bolt under it. Usually removing that will let you pull it free of the clips and out of the way.

But, yeah, if you don't do it frequently, it's tough. New model trucks always are a challenge, until you get one under your belt.
If it is a challenge, there's no shame in taking it to a shop, or finding someone who's done a few and will do it for you. The time savings alone may make financial sense.
having the right tools is one thing. Having the knowledge and experience is another.
My buddies wife just picked up a new Range Rover and wanted an installation to monitor the local PD on a Moto radio I gave her. Never did a Range Rover before, but there is a very happily mounted UHF antenna on her roof that performs great. Installed a black Laird black Phantom antenna to her delight. Radio is tucked in a hidden, but accessible area, with an external speaker.
 

OhSixTJ

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On my 2015 I was able to stick a fiberglass rod in through the 3rd beak light to see how far forward the cross member was. I took 2 inches off that for a little cushion and put my hole there.
 

Firekite

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On my 2015 I was able to stick a fiberglass rod in through the 3rd beak light to see how far forward the cross member was. I took 2 inches off that for a little cushion and put my hole there.
Genius. I may still get a pro to do it, but if I get up the gumption to do it myself, I’ll probably take that tack.
 

OhSixTJ

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Genius. I may still get a pro to do it, but if I get up the gumption to do it myself, I’ll probably take that tack.

the first one is always the scariest but I’ve already done about 10 or so and that’s using a regular hole saw, not a fancy NMO saw. Yeah I might’ve nicked a headliner or 2 but it’s not biggie. No penetration into the cab. Good luck with what ever you decide to do!
 

fwradio

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Just don't use a drill bit and tin snips... yes it happened. Someone didn't want to pay us for a professional install and tried to do it themselves. Then they came back and asked how we make the hole in the roof so round... They paid a lot of money to a body shop to fix the roof.
 

Project25_MASTR

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While I will be at APCO tomorrow (just a day trip for me).

In the San Antonio area, there is a Bearcom location (staffed by S&P Communications employees), Industrial Communications (who I actually know nothing about), Advantage Communications (staffed by former Bearcom San Antonio employees), Dailey Wells (I wouldn't give them money personally) and perhaps an All Points of Austin installer.
 
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