M7300 VHF Cable Part 14002-0167-01

[Techholder88]

Looking for this cable for an M7300 VHF 110 watt radio, but not looking to spend $125-$200 for it. I have 1 but i need a second one for a second radio. If someone can PM me that has one for sale that would be awesome.

However my electrical senses are tingling! I opened the radio up and discovered some things. If I cant find an OEM cable I may have other options.



I opened up the inside of the radio where the power connects to the circuit board and it looks like the engineers used what appears to be 16 or maybe even 18 gauge wires connected together to route out to the power connector which uses 6 gauge wire (fused at 30Amps).

Im not sure how the power cable goes from 5 wires on the power connector goes down to 3 wires where the 6 gauge wire meets the plastic. It doesn't look like the area where the 6 gauge wires connect to the rest of the wires will open as it looks like its sealed permanently.

I have a parts radio (M5300 900mhz) (which I'm not going to ever use) that I could pull parts off of. If it was possible without being a hazard, I would like to pull the power connector off (CA-013869) of and swap the 5 pin (from the 110 watt VHF) and use the standard cable CA-012365-001 which uses 10 gauge wire but not go out 20 feet that the cable has, instead only run a maximum of 4 feet. Here is a picture of how the M5300 is connected to the circuit board (soldered on).


If I did this, would it create a fire hazard even with the short run of the cable? It would just be to connect to the bus bar that I have in the backseat which has 0/1 gauge wires running to the battery. I'm getting mixed opinions and information with wire charts.

The User manual says the radio will pull 23 amps typically with a max of 25 amps.

My other option would be to cut the wires and bypass the connector all together and use whatever higher gauge wire that i have on hand. This would be for a personal use radio if that is a question.

 

[mmckenna]

My other option would be to cut the wires and bypass the connector all together and use whatever higher gauge wire that i have on hand. This would be for a personal use radio if that is a question.

That's probably what I'd do.

However….
While not ideal, a 10 gauge wire would easily carry the 25 amps that the radio will need. The important part is the length.
The longer the conductor is, the more voltage drop you will see. 4 feet won't be an issue. Trying to run it from the trunk of a car all the way up to the battery in front would be an issue. That's why they give you #6.
Just make sure you install a fuse at the power source, 30 amp fuse would be what you'd want.


If you want to check this yourself, there are plenty of wire size calculators that will let you enter voltage, allowable voltage drop, current draw, conductor length and wire type and tell you what it will safely handle.

 

[Techholder88]

Perfect, that's what I was wondering. I've already got the power ran to the back of the truck (F-150) with other radios using a common point with much higher gauge wires so the length to be used would be pretty short. This would just be for a short "jumping" connection and its to upgrade from a VHF M7100. If it was truly going to the front of the truck to find power I would definitely use 6 gauge or higher. It's the strange, uncommon 5 pin connector that has me stuck in the predicament I'm in.

 

[mmckenna]

Perfect, that's what I was wondering. I've already got the power ran to the back of the truck (F-150) with other radios using a common point with much higher gauge wires so the length to be used would be pretty short. This would just be for a short "jumping" connection and its to upgrade from a VHF M7100. If it was truly going to the front of the truck to find power I would definitely use 6 gauge or higher. It's the strange, uncommon 5 pin connector that has me stuck in the predicament I'm in.

Got it.
I did the similar install in my 2011 F-150, my 2018 F-350 and the 2017 F-350 at work. All of them used 6 gauge from the battery to the area behind the seat. That broke out into a fused distribution block, and fed individual radios. Has worked very well.

The Motorola 100 watt radios use #10 wire, I think. #6 is pretty heavy for a 100 watt radio, but it's good to have low voltage drop.

Should work just fine for you, and save you a bunch of money.

 

[wa8pyr]

However my electrical senses are tingling! I opened the radio up and discovered some things. If I cant find an OEM cable I may have other options.

View attachment 124423

My other option would be to cut the wires and bypass the connector all together and use whatever higher gauge wire that i have on hand. This would be for a personal use radio if that is a question.

Why not just replace the old power connector with a readily available Anderson power pole? Cut the old connector off and slap on the power pole; if necessary, fabricate a new power connector using #6 wires and ring lugs to the A+, IGN and GND lugs shown in your picture, with the power pole at the other end.

Come to think of it, I should do that on a couple of the Harris radios I have lying around here...

 

[BMDaug]

Why not just replace the old power connector with a readily available Anderson power pole? Cut the old connector off and slap on the power pole; if necessary, fabricate a new power connector using #6 wires and ring lugs to the A+, IGN and GND lugs shown in your picture, with the power pole at the other end.

Come to think of it, I should do that on a couple of the Harris radios I have lying around here...

I’ve done this in a number of ham radios. It’s so silly to use T-power adapters and crap like that that when you can just cut it off and go direct to power pole. Too bad you can’t do that with a 100M… that four hole flange mount power connector on the MRU is actually a Harris proprietary part made by Conxall…

I’ve tried multiple times to build that part from Conxall data sheets and it’s just not possible to get that connector in that mounting format. You can get a jam nut panel mount like the control head uses, but not a four hole… I had one with a broken power jack and it was easier to just find a parts radio than it was to get the part from Harris.

-B

Edit: Come to think of it, that connector you need should be available from Conxall. But you would have to come out with 12 gauge wires and then combine them (that’s what that custom molded plastic piece is doing just down from the connector in your picture).

 

[2154]

Not to refresh this thread but what was the consensus here? I'm also looking for one or at least that connector and not wanting to fork out the insane price for a project that may not go anywhere. Cable number 14002-0167-01 I believe.

 

[Techholder88]

Essentially what I will be doing is creating my own wire harness but the wires will be much shorter due to electrical limitations. Since it’s only 3 connectors on the circuit board with what looks like either 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire, I’m not concerned about using smaller gauge wire for a short distance. My wire run will be less than 5 feet so I’ll be able to get away with using much smaller gauge wire. I decided to buy the female connector for the 3 pin connector on the M5300 from Mouser (Conxall part 3182-3SG-3DC) and I’ll be soldering in my own scrap wire. I took the pigtail out of the parts radio for the male connection so that it will be mostly waterproof. My cost so far is $24.24 from mouser and a $30 parts radio which I originally bought for other reasons. I’m still under $100 👍