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Mobile: Power lead T-Connector removal?

RandomGuy1

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Jan 5, 2025
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5
First mobile install (of several). I have radios from Kenwood and Yaesu that I plan to install in vehicles. Each on has a T-connector on the power leads at the end that plugs into the rig. Is there a way to remove those connectors for a smaller hole in the firewall, or is common practice just to snip them off and re-splice them onto the leads after they are passed through the firewall? Thanks!
 

dkcorlfla

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I think if you take a close look at the pins inside the connector you will find barbs on the side of the pin. In the past I have been able to depress the barb using a small hard wire and then pull the pins out of the plastic T. After you get the pins out you should be able to bend the barb back in the correct position using a knife or razor.
 

dkcorlfla

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Why can’t you run the wires from the inside out?
Good idea, should be faster and easier then removing the pins. If the power lead uses an inline glass fuse it should be possible to remove the fuse and wire connectors from the plastic case making the size of the needed hole smaller.
 

AK9R

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In the past I have been able to depress the barb using a small hard wire and then pull the pins out of the plastic T.
A set of picks may be helpful.
 

slowmover

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First mobile install (of several). I have radios from Kenwood and Yaesu that I plan to install in vehicles. Each on has a T-connector on the power leads at the end that plugs into the rig. Is there a way to remove those connectors for a smaller hole in the firewall, or is common practice just to snip them off and re-splice them onto the leads after they are passed through the firewall? Thanks!

Welcome to Radio-R!

It’s easy on occasion to miss the picture needed.

In a vehicle with several devices needing 12VDC there are distribution blocks of various types to make all this easier. (BLUESEA).

I’ve a veteran WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO RigRunner 4005 which has gone into quite a few company vehicles over the years.

IMG_1814.jpeg
— Most single installs won’t benefit by acquisition of tools & supply for ANDERSON PowerPoles as needed for that device, but it was ideal for my situation.

Don’t be in a hurry re planning. Executing a good plan takes no time by comparison.

The bible of mobile installation will take you through quite a few topic headings worth your while. Search opinions of those topics as well.

Best install is demarcation between men & boys.

.
 
Last edited:

RandomGuy1

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Joined
Jan 5, 2025
Messages
5
I think if you take a close look at the pins inside the connector you will find barbs on the side of the pin. In the past I have been able to depress the barb using a small hard wire and then pull the pins out of the plastic T. After you get the pins out you should be able to bend the barb back in the correct position using a knife or razor.
Thanks. I'll take a look.

Why can’t you run the wires from the inside out?
Too obvious. I need a more complex solution. :) That's a great thought. There are fuses on the 'other' end of the leads, but they're less bulky than the T-connectors. I'll check and see if this is workable.

A set of picks may be helpful.
Now we're talking! An excuse to buy something! Good point.

I did mobile installs for many, many, many years and I don’t recall ever removing the power plug to fish wires through the firewall. Maybe I did it wrong all those years?
:) I think not. I'm trying to use a small hole in the firewall. If I go with a larger opening it might simplify things and render motion moot.

That part. Three decades of working in LMR and never saw the need to barbarize a radio power cable during installs or removals.
Leave it to a new guy (me) to complicate a simple task.

Welcome to Radio-R!

It’s easy on occasion to miss the picture needed.

In a vehicle with several devices needing 12VDC there are distribution blocks of various types to make all this easier. (BLUESEA).

I’ve a veteran WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO RigRunner 4005 which has gone into quite a few company vehicles over the years.

View attachment 177531
— Most single installs won’t benefit by acquisition of tools & supply for ANDERSON PowerPoles as needed for that device, but it was ideal for my situation.

Don’t be in a hurry re planning. Executing a good plan takes no time by comparison.

The bible of mobile installation will take you through quite a few topic headings worth your while. Search opinions of those topics as well.

Best install is demarcation between men & boys.

.
I thought about a fuse block but as you mentioned I don't know that it would benefit my install. Thanks for the mobile installation link. (y)

Thank you all for your responses. I will probably apply several suggestions as I work through these projects. I appreciate the thoughtful input.
 

KevinC

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I'm everywhere Focker!
Too obvious. I need a more complex solution. :) That's a great thought. There are fuses on the 'other' end of the leads, but they're less bulky than the T-connectors. I'll check and see if this is workable.
Chances are the wires won't be the exact length you need, so just cut about 6" from the fuse holder, use what you need and crimp back at the fuse holder.
 

mmckenna

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Run one wire of larger gauge from a fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block at the radios. Less labor, less voltage drop, easier to change/add things down the road. Pull your ground off the body closer to the radios.

Those wiring harnesses that come with the amateur radios are usually kind of junky anyway.
 

slowmover

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Aug 4, 2020
Messages
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Location
Fort Worth
Run one wire of larger gauge from a fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block at the radios. Less labor, less voltage drop, easier to change/add things down the road. Pull your ground off the body closer to the radios.

Those wiring harnesses that come with the amateur radios are usually kind of junky anyway.

This plan works, OP.

I plan for max draw of 30A and generally don’t get much above 20A. As a result I’ve used 6-AWG for years as those installs were 20-25’ total circuit length. I use it for shorter runs.

Otherwise, I stay with 10-AWG and splice it close to device being powered. These two wire sizes do the job for me.

IMG_7263.jpeg

No more than 1/2V drop DC at mic key-up. Assume device fuse rating is standard amp draw to determine wire gauge minimum.

Distribution Block makes it easy now or in the future.

ANCOR heat-shrink adhesive connectors, not just tinned, multi-strand ANCOR marine-grade wire. Plus split loom cover.

Build harness similar to OEM which can be removed as group.

Power is A System.

IMG_0728.jpeg


Mine begins at BATT with this fuse type


When the radio rig always gets high octane fuel it’ll always have killer throttle response.

— This may seem like “much”, but it’s nowhere near what you’ll see in research where @mmckenna has detailed some of his professional dotGOV installs.

— It’s nowhere near what my son is underway with installing an FT-891 & Little Tarheel for his pickup.

The plan is everything.

This is the typical Amateur 12VDC power system:

IMG_7231.jpeg

.
 
Last edited:

RandomGuy1

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2025
Messages
5
Run one wire of larger gauge from a fuse at the battery to a fused distribution block at the radios. Less labor, less voltage drop, easier to change/add things down the road. Pull your ground off the body closer to the radios.

Those wiring harnesses that come with the amateur radios are usually kind of junky anyway.
Thank you. Good info. I hadn't thought about putting the fuse block at the radio. That'll help if I decide to add a GMRS radio, too.

This plan works, OP.

I plan for max draw of 30A and generally don’t get much above 20A. As a result I’ve used 6-AWG for years as those installs were 20-25’ total circuit length. I use it for shorter runs.

Otherwise, I stay with 10-AWG and splice it close to device being powered. These two wire sizes do the job for me.

View attachment 177629

No more than 1/2V drop DC at mic key-up. Assume device fuse rating is standard amp draw to determine wire gauge minimum.

Distribution Block makes it easy now or in the future.

ANCOR heat-shrink adhesive connectors, not just tinned, multi-strand ANCOR marine-grade wire. Plus split loom cover.

Build harness similar to OEM which can be removed as group.

Power is A System.

View attachment 177630


Mine begins at BATT with this fuse type


When the radio rig always gets high octane fuel it’ll always have killer throttle response.

— This may seem like “much”, but it’s nowhere near what you’ll see in research where @mmckenna has detailed some of his professional dotGOV installs.

— It’s nowhere near what my son is underway with installing an FT-891 & Little Tarheel for his pickup.

The plan is everything.

This is the typical Amateur 12VDC power system:

View attachment 177631

.
Thank you for putting the effort into your detailed post. I got the temporary installation done and it's working fine, but I like this set up better.
 

mmckenna

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Messages
25,759
Location
United States
Thank you. Good info. I hadn't thought about putting the fuse block at the radio. That'll help if I decide to add a GMRS radio, too.

In the long run, it saves you labor, and even if it's your own labor, that's expensive.

It looks better, you only have to dress in one wire. No wads of fuse holders at the battery, either.
Makes adding more equipment easier.
Gets rid of the awful power cables that most ham/consumer radios come with.
Makes troubleshooting a lot easier, but if done right, you shouldn't ever need to troubleshoot it.
Lots of clean power makes your radios happy.

I've got to do a new truck this week. 2 radios. It'll get the same setup.
 
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