Got a link to one that's actually 2 amps or 3 amps?There's nothing special about the charger EXCEPT that it's 2 amps. I use 3 amps. Don't buy a cheap one, though.
What he said. I've found Anker products to be good quality.Here is a good wall charger for the SDS100: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-PowerPort-PowerIQ-Foldable/dp/B071YMZ4LD/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3JX42L5LUMDZB&keywords=anker+wall+charger+quick+charge+3.0&qid=1558475390&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sprefix=anker+wall,aps,163&sr=8-4
Houk
I dont need the charger. I just need a new cable. Sorry I didn't specify.What he said. I've found Anker products to be good quality.
It doesn't have to be a "smart" charger like that but it will certainly work and you can use it on other things, too.
You're right and I use mine to supply power to the charger. ☺It's not a charger, it's a power supply.
Well when I'm transporting the charger and USB cable I always wrap the cable up so it takes up less room in my pocket. That's why I think it's the cable NOT the charger.Racing1, if the voltage is falling, it's highly unlikely that it's the USB cable. It takes whatever you put in one end and shoots it out the other. My guess is that it's the charger, not the cable.
C2G 27005 USB Cable - USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B Male Cable for Cameras, Canon, Casio, Nikon, Toshiba, Panasonic, Black (6.6 Feet, 2 Meters)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RVL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujm5Cb9658R2W
Did it say it came with a separate "charging cradle or something?" You can order batteries and you can order batteries with chargers.I didn't get mine yet, but I ordered a 2nd battery and assume it comes with its own charging cradle or something so I suggest freeing your scanner as plugging it in defeats the purpose of being "mobile" and handheld unit. If I planned on ever plugging it in, I'd gone with the 200.
The timer is also re-settable. I have two of them and they do come in handy.Good idea to add a USB metering device to your kit. Typical connection is at the power supply so you don't have information of the volts via the cable at the radio. Knowing what your current draw is will give you indications of a bad cable. They are not laboratory grade traceable calibration, but for less than $10 if you shop around are worth it.
Mines a Keweisi KWS-V20, 3-9V, 0-3A, Time 0-99Hours.