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New CB radio options. Can’t choose.

mmckenna

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all the manufacturers seem to claim they have some magic technology to one-up their competitors but how would essentially grounding the antenna to the chassis improve anything when your antenna is only supposed to be grounded obviously through the coax. Maybe that’s a bad choice of words to use but when the coax is disconnected, the antenna isn’t supposed to be grounded to the chassis.

5/8th's wave antennas are a non-resonate antenna, so they require a matching coil at the base. The matching coil makes the antenna look like a resonate antenna (usually a 3/4 wave). For that coil to work properly, one side of it needs to be grounded.

There is a big difference between a Direct Current ground you see with your test lamp, and an RF ground. The grounding of one side of the matching coil is invisible to the radio, but your test light will see it as a short circuit to ground. That is normal and to be expected. I have a couple professional VHF and UHF 5/8th's wave antennas that all act this way.
 

corneileous

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5/8th's wave antennas are a non-resonate antenna, so they require a matching coil at the base. The matching coil makes the antenna look like a resonate antenna (usually a 3/4 wave). For that coil to work properly, one side of it needs to be grounded.

There is a big difference between a Direct Current ground you see with your test lamp, and an RF ground. The grounding of one side of the matching coil is invisible to the radio, but your test light will see it as a short circuit to ground. That is normal and to be expected. I have a couple professional VHF and UHF 5/8th's wave antennas that all act this way.
You know, as I was typing that, I kinda figured that had to be the case that, continuity from that little ground wire on my new antenna to the bracket wasn’t the same as if perhaps the base itself all the sudden got grounded to the chassis so maybe Wilson does now what they’re doing….lol.

So base on what I was trying to explain from what the back of the package said, when would I use that little ground wire? As I said, it didn’t say anything about using it with just one antenna, it was when two of those antennas were used in a co-phase system and if a SWR lower that 2 couldn’t be achieved.
 

cralt

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You know, as I was typing that, I kinda figured that had to be the case that, continuity from that little ground wire on my new antenna to the bracket wasn’t the same as if perhaps the base itself all the sudden got grounded to the chassis so maybe Wilson does now what they’re doing….lol.

So base on what I was trying to explain from what the back of the package said, when would I use that little ground wire? As I said, it didn’t say anything about using it with just one antenna, it was when two of those antennas were used in a co-phase system and if a SWR lower that 2 couldn’t be achieved.
Just hook it and see what happens on the SWR meter. It would have been quicker then writing all this out :LOL:
 

corneileous

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Just hook it and see what happens on the SWR meter. It would have been quicker then writing all this out :LOL:

Well here, you read it and tell me what it means. Like I said, it doesn’t mention using it for a single antenna.


Back of the package as follows:
9. If the SWR does not go below or less than 2.0:1,
connect the matching lead to ground only on the
passenger's side. Re-adjust whip tips (usually
down) for best SWR. It is necessary to retune the
antenna, as the matching lead will sift the
resonate frequency down 200-250 KHz.

10. If the SWR is still high, remove passenger's side
matching lead from ground and connect the driver's
side matching lead. Again re-tune for best SWR.
11. It is very rare, but your installation may even
require both matching leads to be connected.
 

corneileous

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Well, I learned something the other day…. I tuned one of my coworker’s antennas yesterday and found out that those non-adjustable tip antennas- like the Francis, original FireStik to name a couple, can actually be tuned, if they’re brand new and haven’t been tuned previously for another application.

He just has some cheap 4-foot fiberglass antenna that our shop buys a lot of, that looks like a solid black version of a plain Jane Francis.

With my Astatic meter, I was able to trim enough copper wire off the top of that antenna to where eventually I got his SWR down to 1.5 on channel 1 and 1.7-ish on channel 40 with an SWR of almost 1 on channel 20 and this is just with a plain Jane cobra 29 chrome edition that’s had nothing done to it. We’ll see of he gets more range out of it.

But yeah, If I would’ve known that those regular ole antennas like that were that easy to tune, I could’ve just got one of those 4 foot Frances antennas that I’ve heard actually quite a bit about. What’s y’all’s take on them?
 

slowmover

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Well, I learned something the other day…. I tuned one of my coworker’s antennas yesterday and found out that those non-adjustable tip antennas- like the Francis, original FireStik to name a couple, can actually be tuned, if they’re brand new and haven’t been tuned previously for another application.

He just has some cheap 4-foot fiberglass antenna that our shop buys a lot of, that looks like a solid black version of a plain Jane Francis.

With my Astatic meter, I was able to trim enough copper wire off the top of that antenna to where eventually I got his SWR down to 1.5 on channel 1 and 1.7-ish on channel 40 with an SWR of almost 1 on channel 20 and this is just with a plain Jane cobra 29 chrome edition that’s had nothing done to it. We’ll see of he gets more range out of it.

But yeah, If I would’ve known that those regular ole antennas like that were that easy to tune, I could’ve just got one of those 4 foot Frances antennas that I’ve heard actually quite a bit about. What’s y’all’s take on them?


Nothing wrong with most anything that fits. It’s more a matter of being sturdy. Getting SWR closer to 1.5:1 is ideal.

That said, there WILL be noticeable performance differences in RX with better antennas. So, that’ll matter to you, or it won’t.

With west coast mirror arms I’d use a smaller beehive mount with Wilson 2000s. Take a look around at what others are using. The LOVES at Paris, TX usually has lots of truck traffic in & out. That type place is good for comparisons.

On the mount the 2k are about 5’. Measure arm height from ground. I’ve NEVER had a problem with around 13’ TTL height (used to run oilfield), but your job may take you in closer to obstacles. I just pay attention and scooch over a little.

TTL length WILL matter, and the 2k are a BIG step up from Fiberglas (I’ve found that SKIPSHOOTER brand is the superior top load Fiberglas type; what I’m using now). The 2k or 5k are superior antennas where the Fiberglas Wilson antennas aren’t as good as they were 20-years ago.

The 5k are as good as it gets for big truck mobile (see also SIRIO 5000 trucker).

You can angle them forward maybe 15-degrees (measure). Don’t do the stupid far forward leaning too many do. Cuts performance.

If you have the factory cab roof mounts (like on a 579) the same goes. Just can’t angle.

As you’re in a rural area the conditions for radio are already good, S-E OK is an area I’ve had great long range reception. But I have antennas at least 5’ long. 7’ at present reaching to just under 14’ (on a KW 680). I don’t get off the pavement.

All this is to say I’d choose height over exact antenna spec FIRST.

If you get to that LOVES I’d bet you’ll see more WILSON 2K (or 5k) on NICE 379/389 Peterbilt than any other. It’s what I ran on my oilfield 367.

I had 10-20/mile conversations in far West Texas with other of our company men under best conditions. We ran Gulf Coast out to active drill sites with pneumatic tankers (barite).

Whatever you get consider it an experiment until you’re willing to upgrade. CB can be a LOT more than just 2-3/miles if it matters to you.

I regularly bypass road problems since I can divert from the Interstate route MUCH earlier than others. And get advice from local hands as to exact route. I don’t always go around. Sometimes I can’t. But as I sit in traffic I can relay information farther up and down the highway than many others.

A very good system and installation is to help overcome the deficiencies of other men’s poor systems. Classic “backup radio”.

By helping out in this manner I get a clearer picture of just what’s happening. Same with oversized when I can talk with the pilot car (pull over early so they can get past).

I believe one can be a better truck driver with a well-done radio system. Less stress = more energy. My day is easier. Just one bad day can screw up your week being OTR. For a guy home daily it may not seem to matter UNTIL experience with a VG system shows that the day will run quicker. (Earlier, better decisions).

1). You want that third load, sometimes you gotta have an edge.

2). You’ll get known by guys with better mobiles and base stations. They’ll keep you ahead of the crowd if they’ve heard something, same way you can keep them on top.

3). A storm knocks out power and trees are down on your planned route means you can go around. Call dispatch and they can get the rest of the crew diverted. Etc.

Someday, having a jesusphone won’t help. He ain’t gonna pick up when things get bad. So the men who take truck driving seriously (it’s not just a paycheck) you’ll find are the ones with VG radio systems.

I plan to get home. It ain’t automatic, much less guaranteed. Best Radio is part of that. Like having winter gear or plenty of food & water. When you need it, you REALLY need it. If I have to get out and walk . . . .


You had some family who were settlers way back when, it’s the same attitude.

.
 
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corneileous

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Well guys, sorry to revive an old thread but being that my little Cobra I think is finally starting to show it’s age, I’m about ready to pull the trigger on a new radio and being that that president McKinley was fairly highly recommended on here, that’s the one I’m probably gonna go with but I guess before I decide to order one, I thought I’d briefly open the discussion to see if there might be anything else out there that could be better than that since that was late last year when I was inquiring about it but just to refresh everyone’s memory, I wouldn’t be opposed to going with a 10 m amateur radio if I could find one that has the the CB frequencies in it which yes, I do know the risks and because since so many people do it I’m not really concerned about it so much because the extra power could come in handy but if not, if the only radios out there that have the CB channels on them is not the 10 m amateur ham stuff then that’s fine.
 

n7lrg

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My 2 McKinleys are about 2 years old and have had no problems. Good luck.
 

corneileous

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My 2 McKinleys are about 2 years old and have had no problems. Good luck.
So being that these radios have that auto SWR stuff in them, is that what you used to tune the antenna or did you do it the old fashion way with an external SWR meter? Actually, believe it or not, when I was checking this radio out on Amazon, there was somebody who posted a question about using that and somebody replied saying that although it’s a neat feature that you’d probably be better off just tuning the antenna the old-fashioned way because when you’re out there standing in the ground plane close to that antenna and even when you’re handling it and adjusting it that it would probably throw off your calibration which makes sense to me because out of all that I’ve read when it comes to tuning an antenna like on a semi truck that when you take your SWR measurements, you want to be inside the truck with the doors closed, windows rolled up and not close to any trees or powerlines and once you take your measurements, then you open the door, make your antenna longer or shorter and then get back in the truck, close the doors and take another SWR reading for how ever many times you have to do that till you get your SWR just right.
 

n7lrg

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The built in SWR feature worked great! I did check it win an external meter as well and it was identical. It took 3-4 adjustments of the 4' firestik I have on the truck. As far as the base vertical and beam I used an analyzer too. I periodically check it (press the ch selector 6 times) and nothing has changed. Oh I like the auto-squelch (AM only) feature too. I like to put the radio in scan mode, hear people and make new friends/contacts early in the morning.
 

corneileous

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The built in SWR feature worked great! I did check it win an external meter as well and it was identical. It took 3-4 adjustments of the 4' firestik I have on the truck. As far as the base vertical and beam I used an analyzer too. I periodically check it (press the ch selector 6 times) and nothing has changed. Oh I like the auto-squelch (AM only) feature too. I like to put the radio in scan mode, hear people and make new friends/contacts early in the morning.
So now, does that radio have to be tuned in that auto mode you use the built-in SWR meter or can you not use the auto mode but still use the built-in SWR meter to tune the radio about like how you can on a lot of those cobra radios that has the built-in SWR meter as well? In other words, does that McKinley radio have the calibrate knob on it so that you can put it in SWR mode and then calibrate mode to turn the dial and then switch it over to RF and all that stuff to figure out what your SWR reading is?
 

n7lrg

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With the McKinley in AM mode simply push the channel knob 6 times. It goes into SWR mode. You will hear it beeping and display a number like 12 meaning your SWR is 1.2, It beeps so you can hear as you are adjusting the antenna. The spacing in the beeps becomes larger as the SWR gets higher. Mine reads 10 (1.0) and the beep is a steady tone.
 

corneileous

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With the McKinley in AM mode simply push the channel knob 6 times. It goes into SWR mode. You will hear it beeping and display a number like 12 meaning your SWR is 1.2, It beeps so you can hear as you are adjusting the antenna. The spacing in the beeps becomes larger as the SWR gets higher. Mine reads 10 (1.0) and the beep is a steady tone.
Yeah, I just got off the phone with somebody at president radios and they pretty much told me that you can still use that auto SWR mode the same way as any other radio with a built in SWR meter, it’s just the only thing different is that you don’t have to go to the individual channels in calibrate the scale and all that stuff that it automatically tells you what the SWR is on each channel and even though you may be out there screwing around with the antenna as you calibrate it but all you have to do is get back in the truck, close the doors and the radio will automatically go back to accurately telling you what the SWR is without it being affected by you having the door open, and touching it.
 

n7lrg

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That is also a ham radio
I sent my Lincoln II+to President after talking to a tech there, the SSB receive is real distorted and warbly. The Tech told me the McKinley has better receive components. Seems President may have gone on the cheap for the LincolnII+. I should be hearing from them soon. Never in 35+ years had a radio sound like that. In other forums I've read it is AGC overload.
 

slowmover

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The Lincoln 2 bought early last year gives up nothing to the McKinley my son has.

Both of these are mobile.

Purchase an L-2 from any of the bigger retailers (Bells, Walcott, etc) and they’ll handle the conversion.

One wants an L-2for greater number of features.

With that said, a McKinley is a dead-certain choice.

Just remember that these “digital” radios have a different sound to them than older Galaxy, Cobra, or Connex. Greater hiss (sibilance); a higher pitch.

Some aren’t prepared for their reaction to this.
 
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