oh, about 5'3"
Yeah, OK short stuff.
I'm just enhancing my technical knowledge of the audio circuitry by tactical information gathering.
Gotcha. The circuit is fairly simple to trace - it's all pretty much right there next to the amp.
Take a look at the power switch mod I made to my remote head in the RH96 thread. It wasn't much to do, but achieved extremely satisfactory results for me which greatly enhanced the useability of my remote head just by the addition of a simple switch. All done without service diagrams too...this is where the power of smart deductions come to play. IMO, a big part of the challenges...
Nicely done. That remote head seems overpriced for what's in it. Using the serial protocols that the 246/396/996 employ, it wouldn't take much to build a homebrew version. I already have the PIC processor, 4 line LCD display and a 4x4 keypad. I could program it to do things the way I want - like long presses to toggle groups (rather than Func-#), shortcuts to hold on selected groups, etc. "Go back to that last group you were on" would be great for those "hey, that sounded interesting" moments.
It wouldn't take much to have it control my 246 and 396 simultaneously. Sure is tempting...
One more question: what is that under the white heat shrink in your photo and what is its purpose?
More tactical information gathering, eh? The reverse polarity protection diode that's across the DC power jack decided to fail shorted, which left me unable to power the radio or charge the cells with the AC adapter. The diode is under that glob of epoxy that covers part of the micro. Attempts to blow the diode open (with several amps through the DC jack) didn't get very far because the epoxy was acting as a heat sink. After grinding the epoxy down enough, I was able to get the diode to open (in a nice puff of smoke). It also gave me access to the positive side of the jack. I replaced the blown diode with the 1N4001 that you see in the photo. The heatshrink is just there for insulation.