I have my PRO-197 mounted in my vehicle wired to the "always hot" accessory outlet. The scanner works fine until I start the vehicle; then when the power momentarily shuts off when I turn the key to start, my scanner shuts off and displays "low voltage" and must be turned off and back on. Is there any way to prevent this other than trying to remember to turn the scanner off and back on every time I start the vehicle? I tried adding a 1-farad 16 volt booster capacitor in the line to provide some buffer current while starting but this does not always work. Has anyone else had this problem? Never had this problem with the conventional Bearcat scanners and I'm stumped.
PRO-197 Low Voltage shutoff when starting vehicle
- Thread starter rtharmon1
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mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Power directly off the battery. That's what we do with commercial radios. Your radio is obviously being starved, and this is the issue. Big capacitors may help, but they just hide the issue.
It could also be an indication of a failing car battery. How old is the battery in your car?
It could also be an indication of a failing car battery. How old is the battery in your car?
OsloViking1975
Member
I agree it should be hooked to the battery.
Thanks for the repliies guys, I had pretty much accepted the fact that direct battery connection was the likely solution but had hoped to avoid the task by connecting through the "always hot" receptical except it's not "always hot" when it shuts off during vehicle starting. Battery is still good, (it's a 2008 Silverado) so my next step is removal of the 3" X 8 5/8" capacitor and rewire the power source to the battery. Thanks again for the info.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
I understand, it can be a lot of work to run your power directly to the battery, but in the long run it will make for a better install.
For what it's worth, I've done an number of installs on that era truck, and while it isn't super easy, it is one of the easier vehicles to work on. You will likely find a large feed through grommet under the dash and above the brake pedal area. You can often carefully poke a hole through the side of the grommet and get the wires through to the engine compartment. Carefully route the wire to the battery.
Make sure you fuse the positive lead near the battery (within a foot or so). Connect to the positive post of the battery, this will give you the cleanest power. Ground the negative lead to the chassis near the battery. You will often find an existing ground point close to that location that you can use.
While you are at it and doing all the labor, upsize your power feed to a 12 gauge wire. This will allow you to add more radios down the road, and if you ever decide to get an amateur radio license, you'll be set to go.
For what it's worth, I've done an number of installs on that era truck, and while it isn't super easy, it is one of the easier vehicles to work on. You will likely find a large feed through grommet under the dash and above the brake pedal area. You can often carefully poke a hole through the side of the grommet and get the wires through to the engine compartment. Carefully route the wire to the battery.
Make sure you fuse the positive lead near the battery (within a foot or so). Connect to the positive post of the battery, this will give you the cleanest power. Ground the negative lead to the chassis near the battery. You will often find an existing ground point close to that location that you can use.
While you are at it and doing all the labor, upsize your power feed to a 12 gauge wire. This will allow you to add more radios down the road, and if you ever decide to get an amateur radio license, you'll be set to go.
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