Pro-2004 "cold solder joints"

[JustLou]

This is a long shot, but I'll try. One of my Pro-2004 scanners is showing signs of the "cold solder joints" issue that plagued this radio. I know that maybe 15-20 years ago, here was info where to start looking first, but all resources on troubleshooting this radio seem to be gone. I tried swapping out the 2 smaller boards that are easily accessed, but it dd not fix the issue. The only thing left is the larger main board which is not as easily accessed. Does anyone know where on this bard that it usually went bad? I don't have the patience to re-solder everything on it.

 

[pro92b]

I don't have the patience to re-solder everything on it.

Then your chances of resurrecting the radio aren't good. I've repaired a few of them and it is tedious work with no shortcuts. Here is some info from my file archive.

The PRO-2004 had serious quality problems with its printed circuit boards, especially during 1987 production. There are copper traces on the top and bottom of the boards. In places where it is necessary to connect top and bottom traces together, a hole was drilled and then plated with copper to make the connection. This plating was faulty and over time it cracks, breaking connection from top to bottom. The symptoms can range from corrupted memory to the squelch not working. Sometimes the problem comes and goes or may be sensitive to temperature. The only way to permanently fix the problem is to put wires in all the holes and solder the connections on top and bottom. Pop the tops off the shields and repair the connections inside too. This takes a huge amount of time and for this reason repair shops like G&G consider the PRO-2004 to be unrepairable.


Another problem involves the glue GRE used on the large power supply capacitors to secure them to the main PC board. It's often black in color and you should see it around the base of the capacitors. There is a corrosive element in the glue and given enough time it eats through the copper on the PC board. The glue can be scraped off the board with a toothpick (don't use a metal tool) and you can then assess the amount of damage due to corrosion. Repair any broken traces with small lengths of wire.

 

[JustLou]

Then your chances of resurrecting the radio aren't good. I've repaired a few of them and it is tedious work with no shortcuts. Here is some info from my file archive.

The PRO-2004 had serious quality problems with its printed circuit boards, especially during 1987 production. There are copper traces on the top and bottom of the boards. In places where it is necessary to connect top and bottom traces together, a hole was drilled and then plated with copper to make the connection. This plating was faulty and over time it cracks, breaking connection from top to bottom. The symptoms can range from corrupted memory to the squelch not working. Sometimes the problem comes and goes or may be sensitive to temperature. The only way to permanently fix the problem is to put wires in all the holes and solder the connections on top and bottom. Pop the tops off the shields and repair the connections inside too. This takes a huge amount of time and for this reason repair shops like G&G consider the PRO-2004 to be unrepairable.


Another problem involves the glue GRE used on the large power supply capacitors to secure them to the main PC board. It's often black in color and you should see it around the base of the capacitors. There is a corrosive element in the glue and given enough time it eats through the copper on the PC board. The glue can be scraped off the board with a toothpick (don't use a metal tool) and you can then assess the amount of damage due to corrosion. Repair any broken traces with small lengths of wire.

Thanks....This is about the 4th or 5th one that went bad on me and normally I just part it out and buy a another one on eBay. I still have one working one left, so I guess I'll just part this one out too. Oh well.

 

[PACNWDude]

I do not care for film face buttons, so bought myself a Pro-2006 way back when. However, I have had several used Pro-2004's as well. Some had many of the jumper wire repairs mentioned above. Mine, once they begin to fail, they become parts units now. They are harder to repair and often not worth it when a 2006 is about the same price on online auction sites.

Good luck if you choose to attempt the repair though.

 

[JustLou]

I do not care for film face buttons, so bought myself a Pro-2006 way back when. However, I have had several used Pro-2004's as well. Some had many of the jumper wire repairs mentioned above. Mine, once they begin to fail, they become parts units now. They are harder to repair and often not worth it when a 2006 is about the same price on online auction sites.

Good luck if you choose to attempt the repair though.

I have the 2006 also. I just have a fondness for the 2004. Back in the 80's, I was on the RS waiting list to get one before it was released, and I had my original one for around 20 years before it went bad. It was the first truly great scanner I ever owned. I've always liked it better than the 2006, although the 2006 is much more reliable and faster.