Can someone inform me of the differences between the Minitor cradles? I see aftermarket ones on eBay for the IV and the V but I am not sure how easy it would be to modify these to work with the different Minitors, thanks for any help or advice
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Minitor Programming cradle
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chrismol1
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The bottom of the 5 is thicker than the 4, so it is a different design. Its whacky as all get out but I use a USB serial TTL $5 stick with wires to program my V. I haven't used a charging base or anything but you could build one this way. But it takes a steady hand but I jam the TX & RX & ground bare wires to the appropriate holes and don't breath for 10 seconds. 
works great
works greatI would be interested in learning about your method, I should have specified I am looking into programming methodsThe bottom of the 5 is thicker than the 4, so it is a different design. Its whacky as all get out but I use a USB serial TTL $5 stick with wires to program my V. I haven't used a charging base or anything but you could build one this way. But it takes a steady hand but I jam the TX & RX & ground bare wires to the appropriate holes and don't breath for 10 seconds.
He just told you. It is exactly as it reads. Sketchy as frig, but it works.
Done the exact same thing the once or twice a decade I program one of those.
chrismol1
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It is a USB to TTL from ebay with CP2102 chip and driver. They have pins on the edge of the board and includes wires/connector, strip an end of the wire. There pins are marked for TX, RX, and GND. Using a Minitor V. If you google Minitor V pinout an image will appear and you will account for the pins, Only GND, TX & RX is needed. With the proper driver it will read and write to the pager holding the wire to the correct pins. It will give you an error if you move ever so slightly. Its crazy but it works. Other users have used an old charger base to simply solder those wire to the pins to the USB chip with maybe an extended cable and make a homebuilt programming base
Thank you for the info
Thank you for the help plus the info and sketchIt is a USB to TTL from ebay with CP2102 chip and driver. They have pins on the edge of the board and includes wires/connector, strip an end of the wire. There pins are marked for TX, RX, and GND. Using a Minitor V. If you google Minitor V pinout an image will appear and you will account for the pins, Only GND, TX & RX is needed. With the proper driver it will read and write to the pager holding the wire to the correct pins. It will give you an error if you move ever so slightly. Its crazy but it works. Other users have used an old charger base to simply solder those wire to the pins to the USB chip with maybe an extended cable and make a homebuilt programming base
The bottom of the 5 is thicker than the 4, so it is a different design. Its whacky as all get out but I use a USB serial TTL $5 stick with wires to program my V. I haven't used a charging base or anything but you could build one this way. But it takes a steady hand but I jam the TX & RX & ground bare wires to the appropriate holes and don't breath for 10 seconds.
Lol....this is how I programed my V before deciding I preferred the IV and just used my homebrewed cradle.
It is a USB to TTL from ebay with CP2102 chip and driver. They have pins on the edge of the board and includes wires/connector, strip an end of the wire. There pins are marked for TX, RX, and GND. Using a Minitor V. If you google Minitor V pinout an image will appear and you will account for the pins, Only GND, TX & RX is needed. With the proper driver it will read and write to the pager holding the wire to the correct pins. It will give you an error if you move ever so slightly. Its crazy but it works. Other users have used an old charger base to simply solder those wire to the pins to the USB chip with maybe an extended cable and make a homebuilt programming base
I purchased a used programming cradle which was missing the interface cable; I installed a 1/8" stereo jack and rewired everything so I could use the programming cable for a GRE PSR500 scanner as the interface cable. Works like a champ, and I can still use the GRE cable for it's intended purpose.
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