Question about Crimping kit

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natedawg1604

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So a few years ago I got this crimping kit from HRO. I've had mixed success with it, so far I've used it for mostly RG-58 with BNC connectors. I've been doing a lot of research lately about Coax and crimping, and it appears I bought a lower-end crimping kit.

Anyhow, can anyone advise if the tools in this kit are basically junk, and if so, what an appropriate replacement would be? I'm currently needing to crimp a bunch of connectors in my vehicle, namely RG-58 with BNC, TNC & PL-259 connectors.
 

jcop225

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I wouldn't go for a kit like that myself, but at least the ratcheting crimpers should be fine for intermittent use. Not high end but gets the job done. I've used a pair like that before with no issues. Most ratcheting crimpers are a clone of this design with build quality and materials being the only differentiating factor.

You may have to adjust the swing on the crimp frame if the jaws of the die are not closing completely or if the crimper is not able to fully cycle.

Typically you will use the 0.213" cavity for crimping the ferrule on RG-58 connectors. Check the manufacturer documentation for the connector to find the proper stripping dimensions and how the center pin is to be attached.

That cutting tool should work as long as it is sharp. You want to make sure you are cutting coax square and not squishing it. I use a Klein 63030 if you are looking for a nicer alternative.

As far as cutting back the layers of the coax, I just use a snap-off razor knife unless I have a manufacturer specific prep tool for that cable.
 

mmckenna

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I have a similar kit and home, and it works well enough for most of what I do. The crimpers have been fine. I haven't needed to adjust them, and they appear to be doing what they are supposed to do.
I don't trust the strippers in my kit. Like others said, I just use a good sharp razor blade.

I have fancier stuff at work, but for RG-58, it's just the same style crimpers with a fancier brand name on them. I still use a razor blade for RG-58.

Yeah, you can spend more, but you'll probably end up with the same results, unless there is something really wrong with your crimpers. I don't get too hung up on the looks, as I usually put marine grade heat shrink on them when I'm done.
 

pro106import

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I have been using nothing except "compression connectors" and the special crimper and stripper needed for them. Yes the connectors cost like a buck apeice, but you will probably never have a problem with them for years. And no soldering to worry about! Takes a little practice to get them crimped correctly ( you might blow a couple ) , but well worth it. And I used quad shield RG-6 cable tv coax which has very low loss even at 800 mhz. and is very cheap.
 
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mmckenna

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I have been using nothing except "compression connectors" and the special crimper and stripper needed for them. Yes the connectors cost like a buck apeice, but you will probably never have a problem with them for years. And no soldering to worry about! Takes a little practice to get them crimped correctly ( you might blow a couple ) , but well worth it. And I used quad shield RG-6 cable tv coax which has very low loss even at 800 mhz. and is very cheap.

Yeah, those work pretty well, but @natedog7543 is doing mobile installs which use RG-58. Coax used in mobile installations usually has a stranded center conductor and that won't work with those compression style connectors.
 

prcguy

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The kit looks ok and is very typical stuff. What problems are you having, is it with stripping or crimping the center pin or crimping the ferrule? The strippers should be adjustable and if not right they can make a mess of the coax. I have never found that type of crimper to work on a center pin, it ends up distorting them and I always end up soldering the center pin which takes time. In my working days we had expensive center pin crimpers that had four probes that stuck into the side of a center pin and crimped great with no pin distortion, but those are expensive.
 

natedawg1604

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Update: So I installed several crimp connectors this afternoon and it all went fine. I'm pretty sure I had problems in the past because I previously wasn't measuring the cuts to the manufacturer specs, I went off the advice of a random youtube video where they said you don't need to measure anything (that was several years ago when I first got into Ham radio). :oops:

Today I carefully measured the cuts with the metric side of a ruler based on the Amphenol crimp specs and it worked out great. The kit I have comes with an apparently common 2 blade rotary stripper, it seems like you have to adjust it for almost every cut. I may not have been using it in the most efficient way, but it definitely worked as I installed all of my connectors correctly on the first try, and with Marine grade shrink tubing as
mmckenna recommended.

I'm thinking it might be nice to have 3 rotary strippers, so you could have 1 dedicated to each stripping stage. As someone who hasn't done much crimping, it seems like the most time consuming part is cutting everything to the correct dimensions. I suppose it would get easier with time.
 

mmckenna

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That sounds about right. That was my experience with the stripper. It's specific to connector type/brands. Rather than screwing around with adjusting it, I just did what you did.

And while the marine grade heat shrink can hide screwups, it's really good for providing strain relief. I went as far as to purchase some clear heat shrink. I label the coax and then slide the clear heat shrink over the label and shrink it. Never have to worry about the label coming off.
 

majoco

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What prcguy said +1....
I have never found that type of crimper to work on a center pin, it ends up distorting them and I always end up soldering the center pin which takes time. In my working days we had expensive center pin crimpers that had four probes that stuck into the side of a center pin and crimped great with no pin distortion, but those are expensive.

Must have done hundreds of SMA connectors on to RG316 cable on aircraft pax entertainment systems with AMP tooling which would have cost a small fortune and they also get sent to calibration annually for checking - the jaws do wear out even though they are very hard.
 

kayleesdad

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I like to put a lot of 3x shrink double walled glued heat shrink on crimp connections so all the bending is pushed away from the crimp joint. 2 or 3 layers of various lengths, if the application permits. just gotta buy heat shrink in bulk.
 

mmckenna

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I like to put a lot of 3x shrink double walled glued heat shrink on crimp connections so all the bending is pushed away from the crimp joint. 2 or 3 layers of various lengths, if the application permits. just gotta buy heat shrink in bulk.

Pretty much what I do with cell phone charging cords. Cut way down on failures.
 

N8SHA

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And while the marine grade heat shrink can hide screwups, it's really good for providing strain relief. I went as far as to purchase some clear heat shrink. I label the coax and then slide the clear heat shrink over the label and shrink it. Never have to worry about the label coming off.

@mmckenna : Curious to know where you get your heatshrink from. I'm always looking for good suppliers and I'm due to order some in the near future.

Thanks!
 

mmckenna

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@mmckenna : Curious to know where you get your heatshrink from. I'm always looking for good suppliers and I'm due to order some in the near future.

Thanks!

I usually just buy it bulk on Amazon or Monoprice. Depends on shipping times and if they have what I need. I could probably find it cheaper, but wasting time looking for a slightly lower price costs money.
 
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