R7000 Display Caps, Procedure Question

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R7000

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I'm going to be changing the battery in my R7000 after 20 yrs and thought I'd tidy up some other proactive to-dos while I have it open.

How difficult is it to get to the capacitors in the display unit? I read that C19 and C20 can be problematic. Does anyone have tips for getting to this board? Do you have to take the front panel completely off?

Thanks
Tom
 

majoco

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Yes! You do have to remove the front panel but you don't have to disconnect anything. I will just lie face down on your bench - then you can get to the display panel.

Quite a bit of disassembly is required and you have to separate the display board from it's shield and from the display.

I replaced all the C's on the display board and it still didn't fix my problem of the display fading out after 30mins of operation. In the end I soldered wires from the transformer PC pads to the display glass display heater pins and it hasn't faulted since - this was about 18 months ago!

It was suggested that even though the flexible PC traces are thicker for the heaters they are still not fat enough to carry the current and they heat up too - the change of resistance is sufficient to reduce the voltage available for the display heater and so the display fades out. I'm not sure I believe it but it's a good story!

Make sure you get the correct pads! Cross them over and you'll blow the transformer, get the wrong pads and you could blow the display heater!

I'm assuming (careful!) that you have the service manual! The complete saga is on Yahoo groups. Great receiver, works well.
 
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majoco

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While you've got the box open....

Here's a writeup on a problem that I encountered recently and it was purely by accident that I found the two faults were related - the initial reported fault was 'drifting off frequency' but mine was ' distorted WFM and FMn audio".....

My problem was distorted WFM and FMN audio - hunting through the messages gave the same solution - change C135. However another solution entitled "Icom R7000 design error fix" showed what the real problem is/was - maybe it's the same 'defect' but with different symptoms.
However, IMHO the main cause of the defect is a dry atmosphere! If you look at the schematic around C135 you will see that the circuitry attached to pin 5 of IC6 has no DC return path to ground or negative - even the slightest bit of leakage through C135 will fix my problem but maybe not yours if C135 is excessively leaky. My problem was cured by adding a 2.2Mohm resistor across C135 and now all is good. When I think back to when the problem started, it was about four months ago, winter was coming and the heat pump/heat recovery system was working well, my humidity is about 35%rel where its's 65%rel outside - perhaps the very dry atmosphere has finally dried out the PC board and raised the input impedance so high that Pin 5 has no DC path to anywhere and just floats - usually high as the negative input sources current - driving the output low until distortion sets in. Turning off the power for a minute or so lets all the volts disappear and all is good for 30minutes or so, then the distortion creeps in.

C135 and it's associated components are on the IF board which is handily right on top behind the display. it's easy to pull all but one of the multi-pin connectors off, one is soldered into the board, a single wire and a coax connector, then six screws or so and the board can be hinged out. With the aid of the printed board layout you can easily solder a very small 1/8watt resistor across the traces by C135.

Cheers - Martin.
 
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bob550

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If it's any consolation, I enjoyed reading your posts, and I don't even own a R7000. :)

In January of 2014, I posted a question to a local HDTV forum. I have yet to receive an answer! The only response I ever got was my own ..... in February of 2015.
 
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