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Regency base station-120 volt side problem

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press1280

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Cool that’s what I was looking for. I get no capacitance so I’m going to assume the cap is bad and I’ll try a new one to get this thing working.
 

prcguy

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If that's the main power supply filter cap and its bad I would expect the radio to at least turn on and buzz in the speaker. Unless its completely shorted, then a fuse should blow or you could have a bridge rectifier problem.

Cool that’s what I was looking for. I get no capacitance so I’m going to assume the cap is bad and I’ll try a new one to get this thing working.
 

press1280

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When I turned it on I thought I could hear a slight hum from the speakers although maybe it was the transformer.
Obviously no lights or anything came on. Amazon has a pack of those caps for 4 bucks, can’t get much lower than that.
 

kruser

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Check the diodes or rectifier module if you don't get any DC voltage across the 2200 uF cap after you put in the new one.
If the cap shorted due to age, it likely popped the rectifier or one or more diodes depending on what that model used for its rectifier.
The fact you still have AC means the transformer itself is good.
There could also be a fuse on the DC side of the internal supplies output that is board mounted. Look for that.
 

press1280

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So it's looks like I goofed and didn't hold my leads on the A and negative terminals long enough. Kept them on and got 2600 uf, so I assume this cap is likely OK? I'm not sure what percentage is allowable for a capacitor to be off by?
 

press1280

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Check the diodes or rectifier module if you don't get any DC voltage across the 2200 uF cap after you put in the new one.
If the cap shorted due to age, it likely popped the rectifier or one or more diodes depending on what that model used for its rectifier.
The fact you still have AC means the transformer itself is good.
There could also be a fuse on the DC side of the internal supplies output that is board mounted. Look for that.
Looks like I'll have to check these now although with no schematics or anything, how would I know whether a diode is bad?
 

kruser

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Can you take a pic of the AC supply section where that 220uF cap is mounted?
It should show if that radio is using diodes or a 4 legged bridge rectifier.

Might also look on the bottom of that board for any components but most should be on the same side from that era.
 

press1280

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Can you take a pic of the AC supply section where that 220uF cap is mounted?
It should show if that radio is using diodes or a 4 legged bridge rectifier.

Might also look on the bottom of that board for any components but most should be on the same side from that era.
 

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prcguy

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The small board with the 2200uf cap has four diodes lined up in a row along the edge of the board and the power transformer will connect to two of them. You can lift one leg of each diode and check it with an ohm meter that has a diode check function. One direction will have low resistance and the other direction will have very high resistance. When diodes break they sometimes they short out and sometimes they open and you would have about the same reading in both directions in that case.

Looks like I'll have to check these now although with no schematics or anything, how would I know whether a diode is bad?
 

WA0CBW

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It looks like the transformer was to the left of the circuit board. Did you remove it? It looks like there might be a 3-terminal regulator or pass transistor on the top edge of the board.
Bill
 

press1280

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Bottom right diode was cracked through the middle upon closer inspection. Thing is, I only see one solder point each for these 4 diodes. How is the other end connected to the board?
 

prcguy

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You would need to show a closeup of both sides of the board, but each lead on each diode will be soldered. The striped ends of two diodes will connect together and may share the same solder pad, same with non striped ends of the two other diodes, they will share a common point. The transformer will connect to the middle junction of all diodes and each transformer wire will be common with a striped and non striped end of a diode.

Bottom right diode was cracked through the middle upon closer inspection. Thing is, I only see one solder point each for these 4 diodes. How is the other end connected to the board?
 

krokus

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So it's looks like I goofed and didn't hold my leads on the A and negative terminals long enough. Kept them on and got 2600 uf, so I assume this cap is likely OK? I'm not sure what percentage is allowable for a capacitor to be off by?
The cap could also have dried out. Old electrolytics tend to do that, but an ESR meter is needed to test that. (However you would still have voltage present, if that is the only problem.)
 

kruser

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Bottom right diode was cracked through the middle upon closer inspection. Thing is, I only see one solder point each for these 4 diodes. How is the other end connected to the board?

If replacing those diodes makes the 2200uF cap show voltage of say 12 to 14 volts DC as measured across its terminals, you are probably good to go.
I think I saw an adjustment pot on the picture you posted. If the DC output voltage is was off, you may want to try and make sure of the proper voltage and then adjust that control so nothing else is fried.
Those diodes cracking are really kind of a rare thing but who knows what kind of abuse the radio may have taken if running off the AC mains for its supply voltage.
That large 2200uF cap may also not be the original and the original shorted which blew the diode.
The cracked diode is also likely an indicator the one or more of the other three next to it are also bad.
You may be able to read the number from one of those four diodes and get all new of the same or higher current rating. They should be very easy to find from several sources.
 

prcguy

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Typically the filter cap will show 18 to maybe 22 volts since its before the regulator. For replacement diodes anything in the 5A, 50 volt range or greater will work fine. I would replace the 2200uf cap just because of its age. The number "543" on the capacitor is probably its date code of the 43rd week of 1975. Time to retire that old grandpa!

If replacing those diodes makes the 2200uF cap show voltage of say 12 to 14 volts DC as measured across its terminals, you are probably good to go.
I think I saw an adjustment pot on the picture you posted. If the DC output voltage is was off, you may want to try and make sure of the proper voltage and then adjust that control so nothing else is fried.
Those diodes cracking are really kind of a rare thing but who knows what kind of abuse the radio may have taken if running off the AC mains for its supply voltage.
That large 2200uF cap may also not be the original and the original shorted which blew the diode.
The cracked diode is also likely an indicator the one or more of the other three next to it are also bad.
You may be able to read the number from one of those four diodes and get all new of the same or higher current rating. They should be very easy to find from several sources.
 

kruser

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Typically the filter cap will show 18 to maybe 22 volts since its before the regulator. For replacement diodes anything in the 5A, 50 volt range or greater will work fine. I would replace the 2200uf cap just because of its age. The number "543" on the capacitor is probably its date code of the 43rd week of 1975. Time to retire that old grandpa!
That's a very good point.

I wonder what the three legged TO-220 looking device is that I assume is acting as a voltage regulator.
I also see what looks like a couple other diodes in which one or both could be zener's. Also another small TO-92 looking transistor that probably drives the regulation of the larger transistor on the board. I wonder if there's another transistor (TO-3 case) somewhere mounted on the chassis that actually handles the regulated voltage and current when using the AC mains power supply? It seems kind of odd that the TO-220 device seen in the picture would not be mounted to a heat sink if it's the primary regulator. One of the other smaller diodes may be what sets the regulated voltage if one is a zener type.

I doubt the TO-220 device is something like an LM7812 which only handled 1.5 amps max if my memory is correct and it would have also needed a heat sink if it did handle that much current. So I doubt the TO-220 looking device is any of the fixed voltage regulators like the 78xx series.
I think some of the old TIP28 series TO-220 case devices could handle a fair amount of current but they would usually require a heat sink as well I'd think.
 

prcguy

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Yes, its very suspicious there is no heatsink or other large pass transistor visible. The TO-220 device would not be able to handle to total radio current and it might be a 10 volt or other low current regulator.

That's a very good point.

I wonder what the three legged TO-220 looking device is that I assume is acting as a voltage regulator.
I also see what looks like a couple other diodes in which one or both could be zener's. Also another small TO-92 looking transistor that probably drives the regulation of the larger transistor on the board. I wonder if there's another transistor (TO-3 case) somewhere mounted on the chassis that actually handles the regulated voltage and current when using the AC mains power supply? It seems kind of odd that the TO-220 device seen in the picture would not be mounted to a heat sink if it's the primary regulator. One of the other smaller diodes may be what sets the regulated voltage if one is a zener type.

I doubt the TO-220 device is something like an LM7812 which only handled 1.5 amps max if my memory is correct and it would have also needed a heat sink if it did handle that much current. So I doubt the TO-220 looking device is any of the fixed voltage regulators like the 78xx series.
I think some of the old TIP28 series TO-220 case devices could handle a fair amount of current but they would usually require a heat sink as well I'd think.
 

kruser

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Yes, its very suspicious there is no heatsink or other large pass transistor visible. The TO-220 device would not be able to handle to total radio current and it might be a 10 volt or other low current regulator.
A schematic would come in very handy!

I did find a YouTube video from a guy doing some basic repairs and also retuning one of the coils that acts as a bandstop filter around 54 MHz. The original owner must have tried to peak one of these old radios and removed the wax from the coil only. It had a pretty strong spike around 54 MHz!
The video moved across the power supply board a few times but never long enough to really see much. I did however notice what appeared to be maybe four wires leaving the board the OP in this thread posted the picture of. I can't tell from the YouTube video where those wires went but I'm assuming possibly a primary regulator mounted on the chassis somewhere and using the chassis as a heat sink.
I think the guy that did the YouTube video determined the radio was probably made by Uniden as it had a couple larger xtal filters and/or possibly a transformer or two marked with Uniden on them.
Did Uniden and Regency have a relationship back in those days? If so, that I was not aware of.
I know GRE made the majority of the scanners that RadioShack sold during their time and Uniden also made a much lower percentage branded with the RadioShack name.

I was also thinking the same thing about the TO-220 device being a regulated source for some other circuit in the radio but again, without a schematic, it's purely a guess.
Something made that rectifier diode crack and my guess is whatever primary device the power supply board fed was the cause!
 

press1280

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Put the transformer back in. I'm reading 20 VAC just on one side of the bottom right diode, while the diode 2 spots down is reading 20 volts on the opposite side of the diode. No voltage to the capacitor, and nothing on the other 2 diodes.
 
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