RS -Pro 106 and Lithium Batteries

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RickS31

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I stand humbly corrected by our guru Don S.

He is correct, there are no AA sized LiIon rechargeable batteries. My data was taken from nominal 3.7 volt charging systems in which each cell runs about 1.2 volts. They are usually, as stated above, in packs including the AA sized form which are 3.7 volts DC. The Lithium batteries shown in Energizer and such companies are Lithium Iron Disulfide which do put out a nominal voltage of 1.5 volts per cell. They are not rechargeable as stated, however.

It turns out out, rightfully so, that there is a strong reason for not having LiIon in the AA/1.2 volt form factor. Wrong charging like in a NiCd or NiMh charger easily leads to explosion and/or fire. Good reason.

Whatever the case, all my above info regarding the 106 and my recommended precautions still apply.
 

RickS31

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Are you sure? these have been out for awhile now.
Check these out....

73,
n9zas

Please note we were not talking about any AA sized rechargeable LiIon but one that puts out 1.2+ volts DC in a AA form factor. I certainly wouldn't want to put 4 - 3.7 volt LiIons in my 106s. There are no 1.2-1.5 VDC AA rechargeable Lithium based batteries.

I was wrong about that myself.
 

mpd4128

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Then make sure you turn OFF the charge feature in your pro-106 as another poster suggested, so you don't toast your batteries AND radio!

73,
n9zas

FYI... I have had two comparable GRE models fry with the charge circuit OFF. I would honestly avoid the yellow holder all together if leaving the scanne plugged in for ANY length of time (ie. overnight).

For those wanting "grab-and-go" ability, PLEASE do yourself a favor and buy a spare non-charging pack at the below link. I am in no way associated with scannermaster or GRE, I just wasted $500 several years ago by burning up two beautiful scanners.

https://www.scannermaster.com/GRE_Alkaline_Battery_Holder_p/30-531232.htm
 

DickH

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No.

Why would you use the yellow holder, if you don't want to use the 106 as a charger? The yellow holder is for charging batteries and the black one is for batteries that you don't want to charge. You can put rechargeable batteries in the black holder if you don't need to charge them.

Exactly the way I have run my scanners for many years. I NEVER charge batteries in the scanner, so I use both holders for my NiMH batteries. One is always in my pocket fully charged and the other is running in the scanner. It doesn't matter which is where.

This point has been made here dozens of times by many of us. I don't know why people don't do a search before asking about this over and over again.
 

03msc

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After reading this (and other threads about it) I guess I'll stop charging my batteries in the scanner... I just hate when a feature is included in a product (i.e. in this case it's designed to charge them) yet it seems a majority are saying "never do this". They shouldn't include the ability then...

Guess I'll be buying another set of batteries to always have one set fully charged...

There's a setting in the scanner where it can run on wall power when plugged in and then battery when not connected, correct? Am I remembering that correctly...?
 

W4EMS

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I do charge them in the scanner but have a variable voltage input that I set at 7.5 volts. Keeps teh batteries charged but not hot. They did get rather warm with 9.0v. That said, the previous advice to charge with a good quality charger should make your batteries last longer, good for the pocketbook and the environment.
 

N1BHH

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The main reason that you don't want to use the Lithium Ion battery in your battery holder is they are too long, also despite the voltage difference. The normal Alkaline, NimH and Nicd battery is nominally 51mm in length while the Li-Ion is 65mm in length. Lithium Ion batteries require a totally different sensing circuit from a NiCd or NimH. You can't charge a Li-Ion battery with a NimH charger either.

You also don't want to charge any batteries in the radio for various reasons, mainly because there can be problems developing when left unattended (read:explosion). The radio must be turned on for the charging to be done, therefore with the radio turned on and the batteries being charged the battery charging time will be extended, thus causing the battery lifetime to be compromised. Batteries must be charged properly, they must be dead to be charged properly. I know someone will dispute this, but the proper way to charge batteries is in an external charger, not in the radio.

You really have to get at least another set of the same type battery, namely the NimH and a quality NimH charger so that you have always got a good set ready to go when the scanner tells you it's time to replace them. I always go with the batteries up until the scanner displays that the batteries need replacing or charging. This gives the batteries a better charging cycle. Remember how much you invested in a scanner and how you don't want to have to shell out money for a new scanner should there be a major malfunction.
 

TES

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. . . The radio must be turned on for the charging to be done, therefore with the radio turned on and the batteries being charged the battery . . .
Absolutely not true with the OP's Pro-106 and the other GRE-made scanners that I'm familiar with.
 

khoelldobler

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The main reason that you don't want to use the Lithium Ion battery in your battery holder is they are too long, also despite the voltage difference. The normal Alkaline, NimH and Nicd battery is nominally 51mm in length while the Li-Ion is 65mm in length. Lithium Ion batteries require a totally different sensing circuit from a NiCd or NimH. You can't charge a Li-Ion battery with a NimH charger either.

You also don't want to charge any batteries in the radio for various reasons, mainly because there can be problems developing when left unattended (read:explosion). The radio must be turned on for the charging to be done, therefore with the radio turned on and the batteries being charged the battery charging time will be extended, thus causing the battery lifetime to be compromised. Batteries must be charged properly, they must be dead to be charged properly. I know someone will dispute this, but the proper way to charge batteries is in an external charger, not in the radio.

You really have to get at least another set of the same type battery, namely the NimH and a quality NimH charger so that you have always got a good set ready to go when the scanner tells you it's time to replace them. I always go with the batteries up until the scanner displays that the batteries need replacing or charging. This gives the batteries a better charging cycle. Remember how much you invested in a scanner and how you don't want to have to shell out money for a new scanner should there be a major malfunction.

ALL of the above information is true, and I can confirm that you did your research (and thru past experiences) very well. The reason the mfr produces a charging system in the radio is simply out of convenience, and also for advertising... they want you to assume that you will not require an external charger & battery source to prolong your listening pleasure... however it's in there, and the knoweledge we have gained by posting battery storage/useage experiences here on RR have surely helped to bring this possible scanner demising feature to light and a better understanding of what is properly required to pro-long your scanners life. It is crucial to all of us scanner enthusiasts, and everyones input is appreciated here. Thanks for the useful info, and I hope we can all pass it along to our friends and scanner buddies alike. I would never charge my batteries in my Pro-106, especially over any lengthy amount of time. It's not good for the scanner... it's not good for the battery... it just makes sense to purchase a quality external battery charging device and a few decent quality rechargeable batteries (of proper voltage & ma rating/value) and keep them conditioned for when you really need them. A spare/back-up fully charged set is worth paying for, and always at your disposal when required.
 

GumbyCT

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I do charge them in the scanner but have a variable voltage input that I set at 7.5 volts. Keeps teh batteries charged but not hot. They did get rather warm with 9.0v.
I know this is an old thread but for readers searching I thought it would be helpful to note that it is prudent to test the output with a meter to know exactly what the output is at each setting. Often times the output voltage does NOT match the switch settings.
 
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