SDS100/SDS200: SDS100 - how to open the case?

[BobeNorthbridge]

Hi

I want to open the case on my SDS100 to replace the earphone jack. FYI, I'm an electronic engineer with a lot of experience working on electronic equipment and a full set of tools for working on surface mount pcbs

So, I undo the 2 screws on the back near the top of the unit and then the 4 screws under the battery, also remove the spanner nut around the antenna connector. The bottom of the unit with the key pad on becomes loose but the top part doesn't move. I've tried searching for case latches using a spudger but can't seem to find any. Is there something I'm missing to get it apart?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Tks

Bob

 

[n1chu]

Check any plug housings that protrude from the sides of the radio. They could be holding you up. Also be mindful of a gasket around the entire housing. I’m not saying that is all that’s left to your disassembly but it’s a start. Working slowly as I did when I field stripped my BCD436HP got good results. I had the radio upended up to where I could replace the display window assembly.

 

[Reconrider]

Check any plug housings that protrude from the sides of the radio. They could be holding you up. Also be mindful of a gasket around the entire housing. I’m not saying that is all that’s left to your disassembly but it’s a start. Working slowly as I did when I field stripped my BCD436HP got good results. I had the radio upended up to where I could replace the display window assembly.

Hey fellow CTer. You know anywhere that sells SDS100 screens at? Buddy needs a replacement

 

[BobeNorthbridge]

Check any plug housings that protrude from the sides of the radio. They could be holding you up. Also be mindful of a gasket around the entire housing. I’m not saying that is all that’s left to your disassembly but it’s a start. Working slowly as I did when I field stripped my BCD436HP got good results. I had the radio upended up to where I could replace the display window assembly.

Tks Bill, I've tried all of that It seems like there is some sort of fixing around the middle of the lcd screen area. It could be just a very tight connector but I'm loath to try forcing it!

If anyone has any photos of the interior that would be very helpful, there's not much information around on the interwebs!

73 de Bob

 

[N9JIG]

Tks Bill, I've tried all of that It seems like there is some sort of fixing around the middle of the lcd screen area. It could be just a very tight connector but I'm loath to try forcing it!

If anyone has any photos of the interior that would be very helpful, there's not much information around on the interwebs!

73 de Bob

Here are some photos I took for another project, hopefully they will help.

I will leave them there for a week or so to allow you time to get to them.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[n1chu]

Hey fellow CTer. You know anywhere that sells SDS100 screens at? Buddy needs a replacement

Sorry, no. Uniden repair is where I’d send it…

 

[BobeNorthbridge]

Here are some photos I took for another project, hopefully they will help.

I will leave them there for a week or so to allow you time to get to them.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Thanks Rich !!

I've downloaded them and they are very, very helpful, it just looks like the adhesive between the lcd and the screen is all that's keeping it from coming apart

Really appreciate this

73 de Bob
AB2NE

 

[grizelcookie]

Hi

I want to open the case on my SDS100 to replace the earphone jack. FYI, I'm an electronic engineer with a lot of experience working on electronic equipment and a full set of tools for working on surface mount pcbs

So, I undo the 2 screws on the back near the top of the unit and then the 4 screws under the battery, also remove the spanner nut around the antenna connector. The bottom of the unit with the key pad on becomes loose but the top part doesn't move. I've tried searching for case latches using a spudger but can't seem to find any. Is there something I'm missing to get it apart?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Tks

Bob

Bob,

I happen to have my sds100 laying next to me in pieces. My volume knob broke the other day. I've been searching for the correct potentiometer to replace, however no search referencing SDS100 and potentiometer result in anything valuable. As you have your unit apart, can you tell me what you would order if your actuator snapped off as mine did?

Since I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm trying to find a 5 pin w/ push button control. Whether or not it's SPST, SPDT, etc. are what I need to understand based on the features of the SDS100. At the moment the ohm's and other values necessary to find a suitable replacement are what I'm also trying to determine by examining the existing unit - both the boards and the pot.

I've read you can test the resistance of the pot. by running your tester across the leads. What I don't know at this moment is which two of the five are relevant for volume, etc. I also appears to me the smaller pcb is a sandwich of two boards, which makes it impossible to trace the circuits and find a resistor.

I'll continue my deep dive/learning, however can you provide some insight?


Edit 1 - appears to be from TOCOS

 

[BobeNorthbridge]

Bob,

I happen to have my sds100 laying next to me in pieces. My volume knob broke the other day. I've been searching for the correct potentiometer to replace, however no search referencing SDS100 and potentiometer result in anything valuable. As you have your unit apart, can you tell me what you would order if your actuator snapped off as mine did?

Since I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm trying to find a 5 pin w/ push button control. Whether or not it's SPST, SPDT, etc. are what I need to understand based on the features of the SDS100. At the moment the ohm's and other values necessary to find a suitable replacement are what I'm also trying to determine by examining the existing unit - both the boards and the pot.

I've read you can test the resistance of the pot. by running your tester across the leads. What I don't know at this moment is which two of the five are relevant for volume, etc. I also appears to me the smaller pcb is a sandwich of two boards, which makes it impossible to trace the circuits and find a resistor.

I'll continue my deep dive/learning, however can you provide some insight?


Edit 1 - appears to be from TOCOS

Hi

Sorry to hear about your SDS100 problem!

The first thing to note is that the SDS100 does not use a potentiometer for the volume control. As with most software controlled devices nowadays it uses an encoder, in this case a 20 position encoder with a push switch attached. There are many of these devices around e.g. 5Pcs 20 Position 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Handle Long 20MM EC11 w Push Button 5Pin with A Built in Push Button Switch: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific or https://www.mouser.com/c/electromechanical/encoders/?resolution=20 PPR&technology=Rotary&pg=2

However, I'm not sure of the exact model used in the SDS100, though it's probably a 2 bit gray code model

Hope this helps!

Bob

 

[grizelcookie]

Hi

Sorry to hear about your SDS100 problem!

The first thing to note is that the SDS100 does not use a potentiometer for the volume control. As with most software controlled devices nowadays it uses an encoder, in this case a 20 position encoder with a push switch attached. There are many of these devices around e.g. 5Pcs 20 Position 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Handle Long 20MM EC11 w Push Button 5Pin with A Built in Push Button Switch: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific or https://www.mouser.com/c/electromechanical/encoders/?resolution=20 PPR&technology=Rotary&pg=2

However, I'm not sure of the exact model used in the SDS100, though it's probably a 2 bit gray code model

Hope this helps!

Bob

Thanks.

No intent to doubt your statement, but how do you know that's an encoder? I thought the TP96G series pot's from TOCOS were the match I was looking for. Of course my conclusion was based largely on visual analysis.

I'll read more about encoders vs pots. Would you say it's worth the effort to try and replace myself, or send to Uniden and see what happens?

TP90N00AE20 - https://www.datasheetarchive.com/pd...b0a6f6236182f201bb503&type=P&term=TP90N00AE20

 

[fxdscon]

but how do you know that's an encoder?

-
Many other threads about the encoder here:

https://forums.radioreference.com/search/870624/?page=1&q=sds100+encoder&o=relevance

 

[nessnet]

Would you say it's worth the effort to try and replace myself, or send to Uniden and see what happens?

I would send it in.
I have had a couple of USB jacks fail (436/100) and even though I have the skills/experience to fix it myself, it was much easier to have them do it - especially flat rate, no surprises.

 

[grizelcookie]

I would send it in.
I have had a couple of USB jacks fail (436/100) and even though I have the skills/experience to fix it myself, it was much easier to have them do it - especially flat rate, no surprises.

Regarding Uniden service aptitude, will they proactively look over the boards for other known issues, or is every customer destined to repeatedly return their units for service only after you flag new issues and pay more money? My thought - you're going to replace my encoder, check my cold solder as well as any other high-failure points.

 

[fxdscon]

Regarding Uniden service aptitude, will they proactively look over the boards for other known issues, or is every customer destined to repeatedly return their units for service only after you flag new issues and pay more money? My thought - you're going to replace my encoder, check my cold solder as well as any other high-failure points.

-
Since you will be paying the flat rate repair, just include a note with the scanner with clear and specific instructions on what you want checked.

 

[BobeNorthbridge]

Thanks.

No intent to doubt your statement, but how do you know that's an encoder? I thought the TP96G series pot's from TOCOS were the match I was looking for. Of course my conclusion was based largely on visual analysis.

I'll read more about encoders vs pots. Would you say it's worth the effort to try and replace myself, or send to Uniden and see what happens?

TP90N00AE20 - https://www.datasheetarchive.com/pd...b0a6f6236182f201bb503&type=P&term=TP90N00AE20

I don't quite follow what you mean. The TP90 series are encoders not pots. A pot or potentiometer to give it its full name is a resistive track over which a contact moves to deliver a variable output, like the volume control on a radio (although those would be log rather than lin types). A pot typically moves over ~ 270 degs whereas an encoder typically rotates continuously, in the SDS100 it has 20 steps ie.e every 18 degrees

 

[hunterca]

Thanks.

No intent to doubt your statement, but how do you know that's an encoder? I thought the TP96G series pot's from TOCOS were the match I was looking for. Of course my conclusion was based largely on visual analysis.

I'll read more about encoders vs pots. Would you say it's worth the effort to try and replace myself, or send to Uniden and see what happens?

TP90N00AE20 - https://www.datasheetarchive.com/pd...b0a6f6236182f201bb503&type=P&term=TP90N00AE20

The difference between the two is: Encoders do not have variable resisters (POT) they have microswitches in them, one for left another for right, and one for down (just like the Enter key)l. I read the spec sheet on them. I wasn't sure if the scanner uses 7mm or 9mm. To buy it from tocos you are buying only in bulk. I am not paying that much for just one part and one back-up.

My guess is it is the TP70N00AE20, since it is brass and looks like a rubber right for water resistance. But only 65% sure.

 

[hunterca]

Bob,

I happen to have my sds100 laying next to me in pieces. My volume knob broke the other day. I've been searching for the correct potentiometer to replace, however no search referencing SDS100 and potentiometer result in anything valuable. As you have your unit apart, can you tell me what you would order if your actuator snapped off as mine did?

Since I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm trying to find a 5 pin w/ push button control. Whether or not it's SPST, SPDT, etc. are what I need to understand based on the features of the SDS100. At the moment the ohm's and other values necessary to find a suitable replacement are what I'm also trying to determine by examining the existing unit - both the boards and the pot.

I've read you can test the resistance of the pot. by running your tester across the leads. What I don't know at this moment is which two of the five are relevant for volume, etc. I also appears to me the smaller pcb is a sandwich of two boards, which makes it impossible to trace the circuits and find a resistor.

I'll continue my deep dive/learning, however can you provide some insight?


Edit 1 - appears to be from TOCOS

Yes it is from Tocos. Model number TP70N00AE20. This is an encoder not a Pot. The unit is all switches(Left, Right and Momentary switch down). A pot (POTentiometers) is like a volume control for an amplifier.