Static

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rko324

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I have a bcd536 mounted in the truck. I goto weather scan and the audio has static galore. I can listen to only 1 weather station at this time. I turn truck off and the audio is clear and I can tune into 2 additional weather stations. Anybody know how I could fix this. The power is hooked to battery and grounded to frame. Use a Larsen NMO lip mount antenna.
 

donc13

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I have a bcd536 mounted in the truck. I goto weather scan and the audio has static galore. I can listen to only 1 weather station at this time. I turn truck off and the audio is clear and I can tune into 2 additional weather stations. Anybody know how I could fix this. The power is hooked to battery and grounded to frame. Use a Larsen NMO lip mount antenna.
Alternator noise, engine control computer, bad spark plug wires.

Does the static change with engine rpm?

Lop mounts are known to be poor grounds, I won't use them.
 

rko324

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Alternator noise, engine control computer, bad spark plug wires.

Does the static change with engine rpm?

Lop mounts are known to be poor grounds, I won't use them.
I’ll have to see if it changes with RPM. thanks for the reply. I moved the antenna around and it seemed to clear up a bit.
 

n1chu

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You might try shielded spark plug cables. Or, move the lip mounted antenna as far away from the engine compartment as possible and assure you’ve got a good ground with those screws that secure the antenna mount to the lip. Those screws tighten up against the metal lip and should be allowed to puncture the paint and make a good ground contact. I’ve seen some installs that used small metal plates which are placed between the lip and the screws. My take on that is the antenna being used may be one that is “ground independent” meaning it doesn’t need a ground. These ground independent antennas are used when mounting an antenna to a non-conductive material such as fiberglass or the electric fold over antenna mounts.

Mobile antennas consist of two basic parts, one half is the vertical radiating element and the other equally important part is the ground-plane. That’s the roof or fender of the vehicle. Ideally, the antenna should be mounted as close to the center of the vehicle as practically possible. All other mounting locations come with trade-offs. But not everyone wants to pinch a hole in the middle of their roof, so they live with the less effective mounting methods. And there’s nothing wrong with that because it’s a personal preference.
 

rko324

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You might try shielded spark plug cables. Or, move the lip mounted antenna as far away from the engine compartment as possible and assure you’ve got a good ground with those screws that secure the antenna mount to the lip. Those screws tighten up against the metal lip and should be allowed to puncture the paint and make a good ground contact. I’ve seen some installs that used small metal plates which are placed between the lip and the screws. My take on that is the antenna being used may be one that is “ground independent” meaning it doesn’t need a ground. These ground independent antennas are used when mounting an antenna to a non-conductive material such as fiberglass or the electric fold over antenna mounts.

Mobile antennas consist of two basic parts, one half is the vertical radiating element and the other equally important part is the ground-plane. That’s the roof or fender of the vehicle. Ideally, the antenna should be mounted as close to the center of the vehicle as practically possible. All other mounting locations come with trade-offs. But not everyone wants to pinch a hole in the middle of their roof, so they live with the less effective mounting methods. And there’s nothing wrong with that because it’s a personal preference.
I will try all the above. Thanks for the reply.
 

Ubbe

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I goto weather scan and the audio has static galore. I can listen to only 1 weather station at this time. I turn truck off and the audio is clear
Listen to that weather station, perhaps with squelch set to zero, with ignittion off and then just turn the ignition on without starting the engine and check if the noise appears. Then start to pull a fuse at a time and note if the noise goes away and then see what devices that fuse powers.

/Ubbe
 

dave3825

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If you have a decent dvm (digital volt meter) you can easily see how good the ground is by connecting one lead to the outer part of the connector and the other lead to chassis ground or battery ground.
 
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KevinC

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What year/make/model truck is it? Most vehicles made in the last 20 years don't have "spark plug wires", they use a coil-on-plug system.
 

dave3825

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2011 1500 have plug wires. I have used a 436 plugged into the cigarette lighter on one of those and never had an issue. I understand it’s not the same as 536 but I do have a sds200 and access to an 01 ram.
 

KevinC

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2011 1500 have plug wires. I have used a 436 plugged into the cigarette lighter on one of those and never had an issue. I understand it’s not the same as 536 but I do have a sds200 and access to an 01 ram.
Even the hemi? I thought all hemi's were coil on plug.
 

KevinC

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And I didn't mean to derail this, I just didn't want the OP chasing down spark plug wires for an engine that doesn't have them.
 

ka3aaa

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does the level of static vary with the speed, goes higher in pitch the faster you drive and lower in pitch as you slow down that could be a bad alternator diode. do you have resister spark plugs and wires installed.
 
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