Storm Preparedness
- Thread starter ASAD
- Start date
- Status
As a minimum get a lead-acid battery box if you must keep that battery indoors.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SGBO
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SGBO
I like that I'm going to have to look into building one of those. To OP I know it may seem like a good idea but all I see is fire waiting to happen. You need to insulate that battery somehow. I really like the concept but I think it can be deployed in safer manner.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
KC4RAF
Member
That's what I was gonna ask, how he's charging the battery. That's a good question krokus.
ASAD
Member
I use the DeWalt Charger to recharge the battery and unplug the radio cord while battery is charging. The charger only produces power when connected to the battery with correct polarity. It cannot be used as a power supply to power up the shack.
When I say I no longer use power supply, I mean that I had a Samlex PS for radio. I do not have that one anymore.
ASAD
Member
rbrtklamp2, what do you mean insulate the battery? Is there a risk of fire even when the battery is not charging? I can place it outside but it will be exposed to hot and cold weather. Would that be ok? I'd appreciate if you explain.
K5MPH
Member
I have a ham friend that does this very same thing and has never had any problems but he does keep the battery in a plastic box battery box......
Well if anything ever shorts out those contacts especially while its charging you could get some sparks or a small electrical fire. As far as insulation make or buy some kind of box to store it in while charging and preferrably discharging while the chances are slim since its inside if the battery leaks or corrodes it could ruin your floor or wall or both. By insulation all I mean is something to separate the battery from what its sitting on, your floor. A good heavy plastic box or something you could even build your self would work as long as you can put the battery inside of it with little wiggle room. We used to have the same type of battery in storage at a lake house my family used to own and it leaked one winter when we couldn't get up there. The thing damn near destroyed the floor of the closet it was sitting in, while you probably won't leave it unattended anywhere near as long as we did I would still hate to see it cause any kind of damage to home that could have prevented.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
TailGator911
Silent Key/KF4ANC
This trolling motor/charger is exactly what I am looking at right now, totally portable, infinite power, light and easy to grab-n-go for campouts, bonfires, fishing boats, etc. Perfect. The small charging unit. The others are interesting and look easy enough to make.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trolling-M...SB-Charger-Boat-Canoe-Marine-NEW/152583077441
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZYAAatdlmc&t=337s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucK1HF9g7zc
Buy one pre-fab on eBay (see videos) or DIY. Another guy on Utube has a solar generator hand/cart design that looks great. I have had dual fuel generators for years now and have come to realize that the longer your generated situation lasts, the shorter your generator will, due to economics and resources. Your generator will run only as long as you are able to feed it with fuel. When the money and the fuel runs out, the generator follows suit. The sun is forever.
JD
kf4anc
Last edited:
A regular power supply would be a better way, as you could set the voltage to float the battery, or use one of the following:
https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-pg40s-super-pwrgate
https://powerwerx.com/west-mountain-radio-epic-pwrgate
The second one offers a solar panel input.
Sent using Tapatalk
I think the correct term would be to "isolate" the battery, not "insulate". Yes, the battery should be in a plastic box and the box vented via some means to the exterior of the house too get rid of the gasses from charging and discharging. Using a sealed lead acid battery would be a better option as there would be no gasses escaping.
TailGator911
Silent Key/KF4ANC
This is a topic that is very useful to me, as I am preparing to build/buy a lightweight solar generator that I can use on my RV trips and in emergency situations at home. I have two dual fuel generators at home and a good UPS backup system for my desk, but I am concerned about what may happen after these resources bite the dust due to expenses, longevity, and resources. I went 17 days without power in Florida in 2004 and tho that might not sound like a long time, it was excruciating, frustrating, and very demoralizing. Windows blown out, eaten up by mosquitos, 98 degrees sweltering in Florida swamp humidity, having to go to the Red Cross and stand in line for water, it was a very uncomfortable time, indeed. We spent a lot of time in our cars running the AC and recharging scanners and phones until we ran out of gas. Then, that was it. Valuable lessons learned, to be sure. 4 days of nothing then woke up one morning with a North Caroline utility crew in my backyard tending to my transformer. What a nice day that was! I made a vow to myself then that I would never stand in line with the masses for anything that I could not provide for myself. Happened to me twice more in 2004, and I have been a 'prepper' ever since.
For me, solar is where it's at in long-term power planning. You'll never run out of sun. I want to keep my budget at under $1k for the small portable solar generator, and under $3k for the home set up. I constantly cruise YouTube for DIY videos (as I posted above) and prepper sites for pertinent information. Would love to see a thread similar to 'Your Shack Photos' but focusing on emergency backup plans/equipment, as I am sure this is a valid concern for anyone interested in emergency communications.
JD
kf4anc
For me, solar is where it's at in long-term power planning. You'll never run out of sun. I want to keep my budget at under $1k for the small portable solar generator, and under $3k for the home set up. I constantly cruise YouTube for DIY videos (as I posted above) and prepper sites for pertinent information. Would love to see a thread similar to 'Your Shack Photos' but focusing on emergency backup plans/equipment, as I am sure this is a valid concern for anyone interested in emergency communications.
JD
kf4anc
Just hope a volcano never erupts and darkens the sky for several months!
Also I'm not trying to be Debbie downer but I don't think $3K will buy you a very effective solar system for your entire home and it's necessities. I think about $35K for starters.
TailGator911
Silent Key/KF4ANC
I should have clarified - I am wanting the system to be very portable and run the basics - radios, comp, fridge and a light or two. I want to be able to load it into the storage bin on my RV and take it with. Like the hand cart system I linked to on YouTube. Something to run on the sun and take care of the necessities. Hey I would love a complete solar system for the house, but I realize that is a lot of money. A much smaller basic system that we can load and go would work for us.
Ok, that's doable!
jim202
Member
Years ago I use to have a deep cycle truck type battery to run my radios off of. Some of the radios were 50 watt radios and some were 100 watt radios. The problem that shows up is the idle voltage that the battery charger puts out. What you really want with using a lead acid battery is something that can control the float or idle voltage at a point that won't boil out the water in this type of battery. The same thing applies to gel cell type batteries.
The use of a battery conditioner with more than enough output current to cover the normal idle current draw is a good power unit to consider. If your using transmitters that draw some current, make sure your choice of a power conditioner has enough reserve capacity to re-charge the battery after transmitting.
Putting the battery in an insulated case has a couple of reasons for using it. One, you protect the battery and wiring from damage and shorts. Two, it keeps the battery from possible corrosion getting on anything around the battery. Three, it looks much neater than just putting a raw batter and wiring under the bench.
Don't forget to fuse the output connections going to each feed leaving the battery. Keep the fuses outside the battery case. Use of a heavy duty terminal barrier strip is a good way of providing the individual feeds going to your radios and scanners.
The use of a battery conditioner with more than enough output current to cover the normal idle current draw is a good power unit to consider. If your using transmitters that draw some current, make sure your choice of a power conditioner has enough reserve capacity to re-charge the battery after transmitting.
Putting the battery in an insulated case has a couple of reasons for using it. One, you protect the battery and wiring from damage and shorts. Two, it keeps the battery from possible corrosion getting on anything around the battery. Three, it looks much neater than just putting a raw batter and wiring under the bench.
Don't forget to fuse the output connections going to each feed leaving the battery. Keep the fuses outside the battery case. Use of a heavy duty terminal barrier strip is a good way of providing the individual feeds going to your radios and scanners.
BushDoctor
Member
Don't charge lead acid battery indoors
A battery box is fine outdoors Mine is an advance 24DC2 had a $50 dollar off coupon i think 4 years ago or i would have got one from walmart but it still works giving me 12VDC in my shop I do have an Eico battery eliminator but it cant carry my 110 watt Motrac on transmit even though i have it adjusted to 60 watts out
- Status
Similar threads
