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    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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SWR

DROSS55

Newbie
Joined
Dec 20, 2022
Messages
1
Location
Phoenix Arizona
Ok guys kinda new to the CB world again. Had one back in like 2012 but i dont remember having to do any SWR stuff. So dont laugh to freaking hard ok. So my radio brand new roadking clasic. When im in SWR mode i can key and check my SWR NORMAL. But when i put in cal mode key set to the cal arrow on meter then put back jn swr key i get my swr. Heres my question. What happens if you simply say F the cal arrow and just set the dang needle to 1.1? Cuz then its at 1.1 and its perfect better than when j set to cal mark so WTf do i need the cal mark for? Cuz when i put in cal mode and just set my needle to say 1.4 and switch to SWR mode and key ill get an SWR reading of anbout 1.1 1.2 bucks. Now if i put it back in SWR mode and lets say the needle shows 2..3 when keyed well not the best reading so i simply turn the SWR CAL Nob to about 1.1 1.2 while keyed then un key and when re key its still at the spot i left it 1.1 1.2 i can put it in standerd opperasion mode and get clear transition loud & clear strong signal and great audio ill say hold let me cal and other driver say why it soumds perfect you aint gumna get any better partner so why is this?? Can’t find a single person ask this question like i can move the needle set it to whatever i want so why dont people why use a cal arrow that gives less than perfect signal. I either feel like i got the only manual calibration radio and its like a bad ass upgrade i should be able to do or my ****ing radio is broken out the box snd im a flippin idiot i cant handle not knowing the amswer i keep trying tk find someone tk ask but they dont get what im saying and to hard tk wxplain over the radio but i can just turn the csl nob set needle to 1.2-1.4 and get a perfect 1.1 or better needle dont flinch when keyed stsys. On 1 and other drivers say it sounds fsntastic so do other radios not stay were you put the needle if you don’t use the cal mark or has every CB user got conned with use the cal mark and over time its just what happens. I have not used an external meter to verify SWR reading. But someone plz help me if you havent noticed by this post this **** has consumed me. All i do is think about this dang radio snd do radio checks cuz its set so well i think that no static at all comes out unless around a lot of othrr rigs or interferance but il drive hours with out any static squak at full RF gain at ful only wsy i get static is turning off the NsAnt and the Ant then consistent static no matter what switch back dead silence until a driver keys
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
23,869
Location
Roaming the Intermountain West
The CAL setting is calibrating the meter for full transmitter output. When you switch it back to SWR, it'll now show you the true reflected power from your antenna system.
If you switch to CAL and don't set it to the mark, the SWR reading is not going to be accurate. It might show lower SWR, but it's not based on the meter being calibrated, so it is meaningless.

You can have a slightly high SWR and the radio will still work fine. SWR is just an indicator to show if your antenna system is more or less resonate. Ideally, you do want the SWR as low as you can reasonably get it, that means that more RF power is being radiated by the antenna system, and less is being reflected.
 

slowmover

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
1,897
Location
Fort Worth
You’ll help your case for some advice or insight with some time spent in editing and correctespelling for read-ability.

I “get it” (as do others) that some of this dilemma gets irrational. Takes possession. Hope you’re laughing at yourself when it does as that step back from the thing can provide perspective.

“ . . All i do is think about this dang radio snd do radio checks cuz its set so well i think that no static at all comes out unless around a lot of othrr rigs or interferance

but il drive hours with out any static squak at full RF gain

at ful only wsy i get static is turning off the NsAnt and the Ant then consistent static no matter what switch back dead silence until a driver keys.”


SWR isn’t about the radio, it’s about the condition of the coax and of the antenna. A few points more or less changes nothing.

Right idea to want it better, but action is elsewhere.


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I’m one of those who believe you’ve heard the call. And would like to encourage you to take a smoke break and figure out what you want. CB — as with any radio service — isn’t plug & play. It asks us to look within.

Can take awhile for Universe to understand and start to help. Evidence of that is you are on this forum.

I’m a truck driver. I may be at any time days away from home, even at illegal speeds and in illegal hours spent driving. (We are in a governed industry). On top of that trucking is a high-injury, high-fatality occupation

A very good Eleven Meter Radio System is central to my income and in safety.

What do I want? (The question I posed to you).

1). I want to get home to family & friends.
2). I want my income to remain commensurate with my efforts.
3). I would like to be of service to my fellows (in this the ones on-air).
4). In turn, I want reliable, predictable service from my Citizen Band unit as a citizen.

In 2012 I didn’t “know” as much as I now know. But I’ve chipped away at best installation practices, and sought to read & learn more about my dilemma common to all truck drivers, and to all mobile users.

The biggest change was in understanding that the systems have priority, not the components plugged into them.

What radio or exact best antenna is second.

A). Antenna location — and mount — is first. Protected coax routing goes with it. (Screw up this part — make bad compromise — and nothing can save it).

B). 12V power from Battery, fused there. Negative to closest (tested) ground from radio (unfused).

C). Quality external speaker.

D). Radio Mount such that it’s protected yet easy to use.

E). Minimum radio spec being AM/SSB.

F). Willingness to experiment and try noise-reduction tests along the way to improve performance.

— If A & B are best, F is much, much easier.

Last is learning to use the radio. Many are turned off expecting that it’s another passive entertainment device (can’t stand some of the yahoos on air). It will be what I make of it.

The better the radio systems, the more easily I am heard and understood.
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