LostInHertz
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2025
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I’m installing a used TK790H in my vehicle for ham radio use, and I’m having problems with getting it to power up fully. I know just enough about radios to be dangerous, which means I know more than an average person about radios but I’m definitely not a professional radio tech.
The setup:
-An eBay purchased TK790H with single remote control head. The radio included a mic, KCH11 control head, control head cable, wires, brackets, mount, and external speaker. The included wires did not have an ignition sense power wire, but had everything else.
-Based on everything being included, my assumption was that it was a singular radio unit at some point in the past. I’ve since sent a message to the seller to see if that’s correct or not.
-The install included using two positive leads with 15 amp fuses on each direction to the battery, plus two negative leads tied into chassis ground. I don’t believe inadequate power is my issue (especially because I can’t even transmit yet).
The problem and my troubleshooting so far:
-It seems like the radio main unit is partially powering on but the display isn’t. Nothing happens with the display when the power button is pressed, nor does the speaker make the Kenwood beep when powering up, nor does any buttons do anything obvious. However, the speaker makes a faint pop when the radio power button is pressed to power down. The radio is drawing current as well judging by the little spark when I installed the initial fuse, but I haven’t measured how much current it’s using.
-I attempted to read the radio programming to see if it could be a programming issue (like being programmed for a basic control unit instead of the KCH11). The software will download 129 out of 180-something units, then it gives an error and won’t continue. That confirmed my suspicion that the radio has to be somewhat active even though the display isn’t working. If it matters, the software I’m using is KPG-44D, version 2.10. The cable is a Kenwood KPG-43U. I’ve confirmed the cable is running on the correct com port.
-Online research indicates that a common problem for similar problems to mine is the F502 fuse being blown. I checked that fuse with a multimeter and it has continuity. While in there, I checked the other fuse (F501?), confirmed the resisters are setup for a single control head, and confirmed the ignition sense resisters had not been changed from stock (meaning the resisters are still bridging R504 and R742). If my research is right, I shouldn’t need an ignition power wire (although I’ll return to this later in this post).
-The display keypad has an emergency button but there is not a scrambler chip or ANI chip inside the radio. I thought this was an interesting find because I thought the emergency button needed an ANI chip. I confirmed the resister jumpers are not in place for those chips either per the service manual info (edit: after re-reading this post and if my memory is right, there are resister jumpers in my radio and those chips require the removal of the resisters; either way I found that it was not set up for the scrambler or ANI chips when I was following along with the manual). This makes me wonder if a hack attempted to use this radio adyers its professional life was over and swapped button inserts or was inside of it.
I’m planning on trying a switched ignition source power wire tomorrow just in case that’s my issue. I am a little confused though on which terminal it goes into. I keep reading terminal 1 of the 9 pin connector, but I’m not sure if that’s right or left as I’m looking at the back of the radio. Can someone clarify that for me?
If that’s not my issue, does anyone have any suggestions for what else to try? Is it possible the F502 fuse is bad even though it has continuity? Is there a way to test the control head in case that’s my problem?
My final question is how can I tell for sure if this is a CalFire model or not? The seller was from the east coast, so my assumption was that it’s likely not a CalFire model. If it turns out to be a CalFire model, is there anything special that it requires?
I’ll sincerely appreciate any help that you can provide.
The setup:
-An eBay purchased TK790H with single remote control head. The radio included a mic, KCH11 control head, control head cable, wires, brackets, mount, and external speaker. The included wires did not have an ignition sense power wire, but had everything else.
-Based on everything being included, my assumption was that it was a singular radio unit at some point in the past. I’ve since sent a message to the seller to see if that’s correct or not.
-The install included using two positive leads with 15 amp fuses on each direction to the battery, plus two negative leads tied into chassis ground. I don’t believe inadequate power is my issue (especially because I can’t even transmit yet).
The problem and my troubleshooting so far:
-It seems like the radio main unit is partially powering on but the display isn’t. Nothing happens with the display when the power button is pressed, nor does the speaker make the Kenwood beep when powering up, nor does any buttons do anything obvious. However, the speaker makes a faint pop when the radio power button is pressed to power down. The radio is drawing current as well judging by the little spark when I installed the initial fuse, but I haven’t measured how much current it’s using.
-I attempted to read the radio programming to see if it could be a programming issue (like being programmed for a basic control unit instead of the KCH11). The software will download 129 out of 180-something units, then it gives an error and won’t continue. That confirmed my suspicion that the radio has to be somewhat active even though the display isn’t working. If it matters, the software I’m using is KPG-44D, version 2.10. The cable is a Kenwood KPG-43U. I’ve confirmed the cable is running on the correct com port.
-Online research indicates that a common problem for similar problems to mine is the F502 fuse being blown. I checked that fuse with a multimeter and it has continuity. While in there, I checked the other fuse (F501?), confirmed the resisters are setup for a single control head, and confirmed the ignition sense resisters had not been changed from stock (meaning the resisters are still bridging R504 and R742). If my research is right, I shouldn’t need an ignition power wire (although I’ll return to this later in this post).
-The display keypad has an emergency button but there is not a scrambler chip or ANI chip inside the radio. I thought this was an interesting find because I thought the emergency button needed an ANI chip. I confirmed the resister jumpers are not in place for those chips either per the service manual info (edit: after re-reading this post and if my memory is right, there are resister jumpers in my radio and those chips require the removal of the resisters; either way I found that it was not set up for the scrambler or ANI chips when I was following along with the manual). This makes me wonder if a hack attempted to use this radio adyers its professional life was over and swapped button inserts or was inside of it.
I’m planning on trying a switched ignition source power wire tomorrow just in case that’s my issue. I am a little confused though on which terminal it goes into. I keep reading terminal 1 of the 9 pin connector, but I’m not sure if that’s right or left as I’m looking at the back of the radio. Can someone clarify that for me?
If that’s not my issue, does anyone have any suggestions for what else to try? Is it possible the F502 fuse is bad even though it has continuity? Is there a way to test the control head in case that’s my problem?
My final question is how can I tell for sure if this is a CalFire model or not? The seller was from the east coast, so my assumption was that it’s likely not a CalFire model. If it turns out to be a CalFire model, is there anything special that it requires?
I’ll sincerely appreciate any help that you can provide.
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