Homebrew Using the Shell of a USB Mini Type A Signal Path To Ground Help?

[air-scan]

I have gutted out a Mini Type A connector (male) to attach 15 ft of 18awg wire to provide a signal path to ground to help the 21 ft indoor wire antenna. I found it has helped the antenna. I can squeeze the end of the wire and hear the drop in SSB audio. I also tried it on 5000khz WWV in the afternoon hours because that station can barely be heard that time of day. It came up about 1 or 2 bars on the CC Skywave SSB. I have video of reception testing if requested. Best improvement was 31m to 15m.

The CC Skywave SSB does not have a external antenna jack. To get the most out of it I did the afore mentioned. The thing is the casing of the the Mini Type A connector will not accept solder (not the connector in the radio!!!). I ended up using a alligator clip attached to one end of the 15ft 18awg stranded wire. While the Mini Type A is connected to the CC Skywave SSB there is enough of it sticking out to attach the alligator clip. I am looking to make a more permanent connection to the connector housing of the Mini Type A. I have no idea where to find specialty connectors that will take solder. I use a Weller 45 watt iron.

Are these connector shells fully unable to take solder even if scouring the surface or are they plated with that material that won't take solder?? It sure is strong.

 

[cmdrwill]

Nice idea for a counterpoise to your antenna.

 

[merlin]

5000Khz is sort of my test for these short whips. I use a preamp and simple LC coupler.
I just barely get WWV and the preamp will increase noise with signal.
Talking about the metal faraday shield(the outer metal for USB), you can solder to it but takes heat like 250 watt gun. Wire brush and maybe a little rosin flux for prep.
The plated plastic thing, no, the plastic melts before solder.
Try straight to ground with your doohicky and if you are handy, I think the LF antenna in the radio is a ferrite sort. Wind about 10 turns of #26/28 wire around the ferrite, one end to ground, the other is antenna input.
Use the longest wire you can for antenna. Did that with a little Sony radio and WOW.
If you go the active mini whip, it will work, but noise may be a problem.

 

[air-scan]

5000Khz is sort of my test for these short whips. I use a preamp and simple LC coupler.
I just barely get WWV and the preamp will increase noise with signal.
Talking about the metal faraday shield(the outer metal for USB), you can solder to it but takes heat like 250 watt gun. Wire brush and maybe a little rosin flux for prep.
The plated plastic thing, no, the plastic melts before solder.
Try straight to ground with your doohicky and if you are handy, I think the LF antenna in the radio is a ferrite sort. Wind about 10 turns of #26/28 wire around the ferrite, one end to ground, the other is antenna input.
Use the longest wire you can for antenna. Did that with a little Sony radio and WOW.
If you go the active mini whip, it will work, but noise may be a problem.

Here is my results and what it looks like. Looks crude but works. In my video I miss quoted the length of wire of the CC Reel Antenna I said 21 foot but it's actually 23 foot. Does it's best at 31m-15m. It kind of sort of reminded me of a Off-Center fed dipole in a small way. 23ft wire antenna 15ft wire to ground. The radio itself is at the "off center" termination point lol.

As far as 250 Watts on that thin metal of the mini-B (I misstated the title it's not mini-A) Running a high risk of melting it because it's thin. Not a high heat application. I wish I could find some solderable mini-B without the plastic.