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VHF TX/RX Antenna 08 Chevy Colorado

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peeta725

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Hello,
I'm looking for suggestions on antennas to work with a CDM1250 VHF (150-162 range) in a 2008 Chevy Colorado. I'd prefer a mag mount setup with a long wire that I can run down and under the vehicle and back up through the firewall to the unit if this is a suitable configuration. I'm a little uneducated on antennas and I'm not looking to spend a lot if possible. My geography is mostly flat but with a lot of trees and buildings. (Suburban transitioning to rural with large forested areas)

Thanks in advance guys.

Peeta
 

clbsquared

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You'll be much better off with an NMO mount and a 1/4 wave antenna. You'll also end up spending less on that than you would a magnet mount.
 

AI7PM

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^^^^^ That. If roof mounting isn't an option due garaging, "L" bracket at the hood/fender seam.

While thay are popular with many, and seem a simple option, mag mounts come with a lot of drawbacks and limitations.
 

mmckenna

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I've installed numerous antennas on these series GM pickups. I've still got a 2007 at work that we use.

A magnetic mount will work, but you'll need a lot of coax to go down the back of the cab, under the truck, back up to the firewall and on to the radio.
Not ideal, and in the long run the magnet mount is going to damage your paint, and the flapping coax will too.

If roof top/hole drill is absolutely not an option, then go with a bracket mount off the hood. It's going to suffer from hampered performance, but it'll get you something.

Ideally, the NMO mount in the center of the cab roof is the ideal location. That gets the antenna up in the clear and provides an ideal ground plane under the antenna.
Plus, it's really easy to install in these trucks. Center of the roof, if you have a crew cab or extended cab is easy to do by removing the dome light. Never done a regular cab version, but routing the coax above the headliner should be simple.
Even going back above the third brake light will be easy. That requires removing the 3rd brake light, drilling the hole, and routing the coax down the back of the cab. Doesn't get any simpler.

No matter what you chose, NMO mounts are the industry standard.
Avoid the Chinese/no-name brands. Might save you a dollar or two, but you'll pay in the long run.

Here's what I'd strongly recommend:
This mount: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-mb8umi-1131 Already has the "mini-UHF" connector installed that your CDM1250 uses.
This antenna: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-qw152-720
The nice thing about 1/4 wave antennas, like I linked to above, is that they are very broad banded and will work well across your frequency range without issue. These pre-cut ones are usually pretty close to right on and will work well for you. Plus, 18 inches tall, so unless your truck is lifted, you won't have any problems with clearing garages.

If drilling the hole is out, then I'd recommend:
This antenna: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-b1442ns-7116
This is a half wave VHF antenna that does not require a ground plane to work. Since you'll be mounting it off the fender, the ground plane will be wonky since it's on the fender. It's a taller antenna, and some of it will stick up above the cab.
This bracket mount: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/laird-technologies-lbt3400-3843
This will screw into the side of the fender between the hood and fender.
And this mount: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmokhfudfme-1126
This mount has a different method of getting the cable into the base from the one above. Since the underside of the NMO won't be inside the warm/dry vehicle, you need to make sure it's protected from rain, road salts, etc. Ideally you want to slide some marine grade heat shrink tubing over the cable and where it enters the base. Heat it up so it seals that point well. The other style mounts will allow water/salt/oils to get into the mount and coax, and will cause issues with corrosion.
That mount also has a standard FME style connector on the end. The connector is small enough that you can route it through the firewall and install this adapter on the end: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/rfi-rfe-6105-1216


Ideally, you want to cut the coax to the shortest length necessary to reach your radio, plus a few inches for making repairs. Preterminated cable is not the best choice, but unless you have the tools/skill or are willing to pay someone to install the connector for you, it's a better solution in most cases.

I'd steer away from the mag mounts if you can. You can look at mag mounts here:
https://www.theantennafarm.com/cata...unts-265/nmo-magnet-mounts-with-mini-uhf-274/
Problem is, the coax will probably be too short unless you get really creative with the install.
 

peeta725

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First of all, thank you all for you responses and thank you mmckenna for the detailed thoughts. I was actually hoping you'd see this as I saw you had talked about Colorados in another thread. I do have a crew cab so that information is definitely useful as well.

While I was reading up on some other threads, I was convinced that drilling the hole is the way to go. I was concerned with resale value of the vehicle but a lot of members are stating dealers don't really care so long as the hole is plugged. I read a lot about people acquiring special drill bits made by Tessco? Would this be the appropriate bit to order and use to drill the hole? Also are you familiar with any guides on how to install these? I suppose I could search up YouTube but wasn't sure if you knew of any right off hand.
 

mmckenna

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Yeah, resale is not an issue. Not only because it's a 10 year old truck, but also because if you trade it in at a dealer, it usually gets passed off to a broker. The dealer rarely cares unless it's a mess.

That hole saw will work fine. If you plan on drilling a lot of NMO mounts, it would be a good choice. If this will be just for your own personal vehicles, you don't need to spend that much. These guys right here (also available from local hardware stores) https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D1800...8&qid=1516760895&sr=8-4&keywords=3/4+hole+saw will do exactly what you need. The trick is to make sure you don't go too deep, but with the dome light removed, you don't need to worry about that.

As for procedures, you might be able to surf around and find something that explains it, but be careful, some of the installs are just downright crappy and the methods used are squirrley. I'd be happy to walk you through it if you'd like.
 

peeta725

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Fantastic. I'm pretty decent at figuring things out, or so I'd like to think at least. I will definitely just stick with that DeWalt hole saw rather than a $50 order... If I have any specific questions, I'll PM you.

Thank you everyone for your help!
 

mmckenna

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OK.
I think you will be much happier with the permanent install. I know for some it's a difficult choice to make, but it not only works well, it looks a lot better (in my opinion) in the long run. With the proper ground plane under the antenna it really makes it work well. Not having to worry about damaged/pinched coax is a bonus.

If resale is a concern, you can plug the hole with plastic plugs Larsen sell for this exact purpose. I know someone who did that on a lease turn in, spray painted them roughly the same color as the vehicle.

If you were local, I'd loan you my hole saw or offer to assist, but I'm on the other side of the country.
 

mrweather

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FWIW, over the years I've traded in a couple of cars (3-4 years old) with NMO holes and the dealerships didn't care.

At worst they knocked a couple of hundred off the trade-in value to fix the holes. I was fine with that since the cost for me to do it would be MUCH higher.
 
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