ways to keep N coax fittings from coming loose?

[crippledchicken]

I took my old discone down today and the male pl259 connector was loose. Any tips on how to make sure my new N type connector doesn't come un-screwed? Sounds crazy I know. I had my grandson help put the old one up and he must not of checked for tightness. He did most of the work on it since I'm not able to do much anymore. He's a great mechanic though. I was just wondering if there might be a way to put a little locktite on either the upper or lower part of female N input jack? I realize, it won't make a good connection if, the locktite gets in the wrong areas. I'm hoping some of you more experienced people might have a better idea of how to make certain the connection stays tight. Thanks!

 

[chief21]

If you weatherproof the connection properly, it's very unlikely to loosen. Check these forums or youtube for proper weatherproofing techniques.

 

[mmckenna]

Snug it down with a pair of pliers.

NOT "grip-o-death/white knuckle/one connection that holds the whole house together" tight, but snug so you can't easily undo it with your fingers.

While that is important, it's more important to weatherproof your outdoor connections. A properly sealed outdoor coax connection would not come loose.

Assemble the antenna/coax on the ground. Snug the connector g-e-n-t-l-y. Then wrap the connector with some good quality electrical tape. Start at the connector/antenna end, and wrap down, overlapping each pass half way. When you get down about 6 inches below the connector, reverse direction and wrap back up (half overlap) to the connector/antenna.

Then follow that up with some butyl tape, wrap that around, mold it around the connector so there are no gaps/seams showing.

Then wrap that up with the electrical tape as above.


I know, you say "overkill". But that is the standard in the two way radio/cellular industry for long term protection of connections outdoors. Any water inside your connector/coax will cause corrosion and poor performance.

Plus, it'll keep the connector from coming loose.

https://www.telewave.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/TWDS-0502.pdf

^how the pro's do it^ It works, and you'll never have to worry about it again. If anyone tells you it's not necessary, they have just been lucky….

 

[crippledchicken]

Thanks for your help folks!

 

[crippledchicken]

This is all I could find locally so I grabbed it. Don't want to have to order online suppose to put antenna up tomorrow. 3/32" X 3/8" X 45' Butyl Tape

 

[mmckenna]

This is all I could find locally so I grabbed it. Don't want to have to order online suppose to put antenna up tomorrow. 3/32" X 3/8" X 45' Butyl Tape

That'll work.

You can often find the full kits, including the 2" wide electrical tape, on e-Bay. Did a quick search and didn't see any currently, but here's the wide butyl tape:

Butyl Mastic Sealing Tape 2-1/2" x 24" From Andrews Wireless Solutions Kit | eBay

Up for sale is Butyl Mastic Sealing Tape measuring 2-1/2" x 24" from an Andrews Wireless Solutions Grounding Kit. Some 3-3/4" butyl mastic is available in my other listings. Cheers<br>

www.ebay.com

 

[crippledchicken]

I think I'll order some of that just to have it on hand thanks for the link!

 

[davidgcet]

i no longer use butyl now i buy 3m rubber splicing tape. follow this method and it will be good for many years. IF you want to be able to get back in the connector later then do a few prewrap layers with the super 33 beforehan but put it on sticky side out. extend the splicing tape and the outer layer of super 33 beyond the prewrap, if you ever need back in you can slice and peel it off easily.

https://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/chartsguides/w/wp-weatherproofing-rev2a.pdf

 

[Project25_MASTR]

Another option you can also use (when you have the hex type connectors) is to use a purpose made torque wrench. Think I paid $20 or so for mine on Amazon.

 

[Brales60]

I got some type of stuff made for coax a while back for all my outside "N" connectors, can't remember where. Haven't had any issues in over a year, and I live in SW Fl where it rains like a SOB in the summer.

 

[ladn]

Locktite®RED will do the trick.

But seriously, wat @mmckenna said.

 

[mmckenna]

Locktite®RED will do the trick.

"I put that **** on everything."

 

[n0xvz]

OT, every time I see the title of this thread, I was to recommend a tack weld....YMMV....

 

[crippledchicken]

OT, every time I see the title of this thread, I was to recommend a tack weld....YMMV....

I bought a 4 wheeler once that when I went to rebuild the engine I got a shock. At some point, someone lost the keepers for one of the valves and actually, put a tack weld to hold it!

 

[TGuelker]

Use the rule we used at the shop when we didn’t know the torque spec.

Tighten it down till it breaks off then back it off 1/4 turn.

 

[crippledchicken]

After seeing a flex seal commercial I thought maybe I should put some of that on my connectors lol! I bet that would make a real mess to get off.

 

[merlin]

After seeing a flex seal commercial I thought maybe I should put some of that on my connectors lol! I bet that would make a real mess to get off.

I've been using Flexseal for over 10 years now. So far, as good as anything.
As for N connectors (or PL-259). get the right size for the coax.
Stay away from crimp on. I use Andrews clamp on type exclusively.
Trick of the trade: before sealing, pack the connector with DOW #4 compound.
Wrap a couple layers of 3M electrical tape, the a generous covering with Flexseal.
cheers