Weatherproofing connectors

Status
Not open for further replies.

SCPD

QRT
Joined
Feb 24, 2001
Messages
0
Location
Virginia
Spring will be here before you know it.
Time to hang new antennas.
(Although some folks say antennas work the best when you put them up in sub-zero weather, with a healthy wind at your back).

So how 'bout a survey on how everyone weatherproofs their connectors, and what they use to do it.
 
R

retiredmich

Guest
Get you some BOOT INSALATERS on ebay, or "ShowMeCables.com " MoCap Silicone Tape
 
Last edited:

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,884
Location
United States
Wrapped in electrical tape, sticky side out if I can do it.
Coax waterproof sealant over that.
Wrap that in electrical tape.

Scotch-kote over the top of all that, if you've got it.

Don't plug/block antenna weep holes if it has them.
 

rbm

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2005
Messages
1,395
Location
Upstate New York
I've had very good results with these two tapes. You can get them at Lowes etc.

Even when changing things years later, the connections were still perfectly dry.

Rich

Scotch Super 33+ 3/4-in x 66-ft Professional Electrical Tape
Item #: 45849 | Model #: 6132
$3.78
Super 33+ 3/4-in x 66-ft Professional Electrical Tape
• Premium grade, all-weather vinyl electrical insulating tape
• Conformable for cold weather applications to 0°F (-18°C)
• Features an aggressive adhesive backing to easily conform to irregular surfaces
• Provides moisture-tight electrical and mechanical protection
• Provides flexibility and easy handling for all around performance

Scotch Super 88 3/4-in x 66-ft Professional Electrical Tape
Item #: 19371 | Model #: 6143-BA-8
$3.98
Super 88 3/4-in x 66-ft Professional Electrical Tape
• 85 mil heavy-duty, premium grade, all-weather vinyl electrical insulating tape
• Maintains conformability for cold weather applications
• Provides better mechanical/abrasion resistance
• Quicker build-up
 

ridgescan

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
4,778
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
+1 on the Scotch Super88. Very stretchy and agile and the ends stay put forever. Example-I wrapped the whip on my mobile scanner antenna on my truck way back in 2008 with the 33 stuff. It's still ridiculously perfect.
 

majoco

Stirrer
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
4,315
Location
New Zealand
I don't like tape - I want to get rid of the water, not trap it underneath! Admittedly I don't get a lot of rain here and I do loop my cables so that the water doesn't run down to the cable to the plug. I enclose the plug in a bit of plastic pipe or a pill container and leave the bottom open - the plug is free to drain and dry out - seal the top with bathroom silicon sealant if you have to. I don't have a mobile installation so I can't comment.
 

cg

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 13, 2000
Messages
4,941
Location
Connecticut
Same as post #3 without the Scotchkote. I got that from a contract requirement for a statewide TRS.
Scotch 88 tape
Coaxseal
Scotch 88 tape
Each wrapped bottom to top and each layer goes just past the last.

chris
 

prcguy

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
16,967
Location
So Cal - Richardson, TX - Tewksbury, MA
For long term I use the recommended Andrew Heliax method, a few wraps of Scotch 33+ then a layer of monkey shot sheet then a few layers of a thicker tape like Scotch 88. I've opened up 30 and 40 year old connections done like this and everything looks shiny and new.

Whatever you do don't put anything sticky like monkey snot sheet directly on the connection, you must put a layer of tape underneath or you might as well cut the connectors off when its time to disconnect things.
prcguy

For short term protection a few wraps of Scotch 33+ works fine.
prcguy
 

jim202

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2002
Messages
2,736
Location
New Orleans region
What we did in the cellular market was to use 2 layers of # 33 tape. Then 2 layers of the rubber fusion tape. Then another 2 layers of the Scotch 33 tape. Reason for the first 2 layers of the 33 tape is to be able to cut open the connectors if you need to down the road.

If you don't put the first 2 layers of the 33 tape is to prevent the fusion tape to be taken off. If you don't do that, you won't be able to get the fusion tape off in about 2 months. It actually like becomes all one in not that long of time. Makes a great weather seal material.

The reason for the final 3 or 3 layers of the 33 tape is the fusion tape is not UV stable. You need to keep the sun off of it. After a couple of years, it will start to break down if the sun gets to it.

Remember NOT to pull the end of the final wrap of the 33 tape tight when you CUT the tape. Don't pull it to do a stretch break of the tape. The tension will cause the end to migrate backwards and tend to start flapping in the wind after 3 or 4 months.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,884
Location
United States
Remember NOT to pull the end of the final wrap of the 33 tape tight when you CUT the tape. Don't pull it to do a stretch break of the tape. The tension will cause the end to migrate backwards and tend to start flapping in the wind after 3 or 4 months.

Good advice, I was always taught that, too. The plastic tape will stretch, but the adhesive won't. What you end up with is a stretched out piece of tape without enough adhesive to hold it in place. You can spot installers that have done this pretty easily.
 

jeatock

Member
Feed Provider
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
599
Location
090-45-50 W, 39-43-22 N
What we did in the cellular market was to use 2 layers of # 33 tape. Then 2 layers of the rubber fusion tape. Then another 2 layers of the Scotch 33 tape. Reason for the first 2 layers of the 33 tape is to be able to cut open the connectors if you need to down the road.

If you don't put the first 2 layers of the 33 tape is to prevent the fusion tape to be taken off. If you don't do that, you won't be able to get the fusion tape off in about 2 months. It actually like becomes all one in not that long of time. Makes a great weather seal material.

The reason for the final 3 or 3 layers of the 33 tape is the fusion tape is not UV stable. You need to keep the sun off of it. After a couple of years, it will start to break down if the sun gets to it.

Remember NOT to pull the end of the final wrap of the 33 tape tight when you CUT the tape. Don't pull it to do a stretch break of the tape. The tension will cause the end to migrate backwards and tend to start flapping in the wind after 3 or 4 months.

Amen.

Glue lined heat shrink is my first choice, over one thin wrap of tape so you can disassemble connectors later. Then fusion tape and more Super-33 if the connection is way up there and hard to get to.

I also relax the stretch on the final two turns of any outside layer of tape and put a zip tie over the free end to prevent 'flappers'.
 

Blackink

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
1,119
Location
Central Vermont
Amen.

I also relax the stretch on the final two turns of any outside layer of tape and put a zip tie over the free end to prevent 'flappers'.

I did the same thing when I put up my outside antenna, used zip ties on each end of the wrap to help seal it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top