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What guage wire should I use for this 12v outlet?
- Thread starter Stimpy911
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mikepdx
Member
------- # 14 or 16 probably.
Be sure to fuse it.
Don't plug in anything with a high
amp draw like a transmitter, motor,
heater, etc.
If it's just scanners, cell phone chargers
and low amp draw devices, you're good to go.
Be sure to fuse it.
Don't plug in anything with a high
amp draw like a transmitter, motor,
heater, etc.
If it's just scanners, cell phone chargers
and low amp draw devices, you're good to go.
Last edited:
jim202
Member
The real answer lies in what your going to do with the outlets. What type of current draw are you planning to pull? Once you know that, you can add up the different outlet draws and get a total current drain. that then will translate into a wire size that you can find from a simple search on the internet.
Just don't forget to fuse it, based on a current slightly higher than your intended draw. I would suggest not to use an inline compression fuse holder. the reason being that with time and heavy current draw, the springs have a tendency to loose their tension. this causes the connection to be loose and burns up the holder given enough time and current being drawn through it.
Just don't forget to fuse it, based on a current slightly higher than your intended draw. I would suggest not to use an inline compression fuse holder. the reason being that with time and heavy current draw, the springs have a tendency to loose their tension. this causes the connection to be loose and burns up the holder given enough time and current being drawn through it.
nosig55
Member
This wire.
Attachments
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
I'd add that you not only need to know the expected maximum current draw, but you need to know how long the wire will be to reach the battery. The longer the wire, the more voltage drop. To reduce voltage drop, you'd need to increase the size of the conductor.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
OK, so let's say 20 amps total. Conductor length around 15 feet. I'd run #10. That should be around 3% or so voltage drop, which is more than acceptable for these sorts of loads.
#10 will also give you some headroom. Fuse it for 20 amps, but the wire will support more than that.
Also, be sure that plug array will support that much current. Some of those things are pretty cheaply made.
I would also use #10 since it will keep the voltage drop within a reasonable range for 20A and its small enough to bend and work with. I would fuse it at 30A right at the battery or better yet use a circuit breaker designed for under the hood use.
prcguy
prcguy
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
I don't know of any "good" ones. Cigarette lighter plugs are not the best choice. I don't ever use them for anything permanent, especially any sort of emergency lights. Cell phone chargers are all I ever use them for.
Any chance you could run a #10 to a switch box and do a more permanent install?
SteveC0625
Order of the Golden Dino since 1972
I have a couple of those in my junk box. The sockets are incredibly flimsy and poorly assembled inside. If I was going to use one for anything that draws more current that a cell phone charger, I'd open it up and re-flow all the joints plus check for adequate size wire inside the housing.
I would also suggest that using supply wire larger than the original might not be the best idea. I'd be much more conservative here, suggesting #14 wire at most and a 10 amp fuse at the far end.
I would also suggest that using supply wire larger than the original might not be the best idea. I'd be much more conservative here, suggesting #14 wire at most and a 10 amp fuse at the far end.
The other thing to consider is what gauge wiring is actually inside the unit?
For example if it has low quality (and unfused) 14-16 gauge wire inside the unit ( I took one of these gadgets apart one time and was horrified by the quality inside) and you go plug something (say 20+ amps) into one of the receptacles, that wiring in the unit is going to get pretty warm (hot) very quickly. Not something you want.
For example if it has low quality (and unfused) 14-16 gauge wire inside the unit ( I took one of these gadgets apart one time and was horrified by the quality inside) and you go plug something (say 20+ amps) into one of the receptacles, that wiring in the unit is going to get pretty warm (hot) very quickly. Not something you want.
If the cigarette lighter sockets are flimsy you can probably replace them. I have some real nice ones with ceramic insulators and large contact surfaces that should handle more current than you would ever need. I think they came from the Dayton Hamfest and will purchase a bunch more next week.
prcguy
prcguy
Those plastic sockets are cheap and contact into them is poor. Above 10 amps they will get hot, especially after dirt and mung collect in them. If you're gonna run lighter sockets, then as prcguy stated, the all metal ones with the ceramic insulator are the best. Plugs fit them nice and tight. AND KEEP 'EM CLEAN!
Electronic Components - Accessories
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Access...bs_auto_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0RJB82J8AVNYM0CFKN01
I'll have to post a pic but the link that ramal121 gave is very similar. They are two piece with a outer shell that screws on the back to clamp against whatever you drilled the hole in and they have a ceramic insulator with a large threaded stud for the hot wire and a solder tab on the shell for ground.
The ones I got are just the socket and shell with no mounting bracket or wiring.
prcguy
The ones I got are just the socket and shell with no mounting bracket or wiring.
prcguy
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