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Which radio should I look at

niceguy71

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I was wondering if someone ever put a large sheet, of sheet metal on the rooftop of an RV.... something like two 4X8 sheets over lapping so they touch..... maybe painted it and then pop riveted it to the top of the RV and sealed all the edges... then a mag mount would work... but a great working mag mount CB antenna like the Stryker SR-A10 MM is 66 inches tall and if the RV is 12 feet tall.... YIKES... most bridges are around 14' 6" so that would never work
but it was a nice thought.

a quarter wave CB antenna is about 9 feet tall... you may have a coil in the middle so it's shorter but the working antenna is really about 9 feet tall..... that is one side of the antenna.... the opposite side of the antenna called the counter pose also has to be 9 feet of flat metal under the antenna ... so you really need 9 feet of metal on the top of the RV.... it would be awesome if the RV was aluminum as aluminum works as good as steel... then you could just put a small metal plate on top of the aluminum to attach the antenna..... but I never really thought about how tall RV's are.

I was looking to see if anyone did it and how it was working.... I found this video IT"S NOT A CB ANTENNA but I still thought it was interesting... the guy has a lot wrong... the size of the metal ... he then says he put a very light coat of paint on it so it would still get a ground plane ( a mag mount works through capacitive coupling so the paint thickness doesn't matter) ... he had a few other things wrong too.
at the end I was hoping he would show himself talking to people... but he didn't..... and that generally tells me it didn't work.

I like to have a really good working CB in my vehicles... so if it were me and if the RV wasn't so darn tall, I'd be putting up 4 X 8 sheets of painted sheet metal ha ha.... good thing I have no interest in RV-ing

 

slowmover

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On the big trucks it was with co-phase antennas utilizing the engine firewall between the doors.

Enough forward tilt to reduce A-pillar interference.

Dipole may work for those who solve the mount mystery.

IMG_6427.png
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RFI-EMI-GUY

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On the big trucks it was with co-phase antennas utilizing the engine firewall between the doors.

Enough forward tilt to reduce A-pillar interference.

Dipole may work for those who solve the mount mystery.

View attachment 200800
.
Is that horizontal white whip a Firestick being used as a counterpoise? or a curb feeler?
 

6wheeler1

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Thank you all for your responses. Sorry I didn't get back sooner. So, Here is the unit I am putting this system in. It is very similar to the picture that slowmover posted. It is a 1988 Coachmen Leprechaun Class C, It is built on a Ford E-350 Chassis. Some of the people we know call it the "Aluminum Room". We like it. It is old. Easy to work on. And, I bought it from the original owner. It just turned over 16 thousand actual miles. It has never sat outside when not being used. It is in very good condition and everything works on it just fine. Even the original generator only has 29 hours of run time. I Re- read my post and so to clarify, I have NOT installed the no ground plane antenna yet. I meant that I have one to install. Now, I was thinking I would not have to use that if I could find a place to put a decent antenna as well. So, since we are all on the same page. The Unit itself will be mounted on what is left of the roof headliner which is basically wide enough for an interior light. And as for the antenna? I have to figure out where to put it. I know that on the ready mix concrete trucks I just retired from driving, the Peterbilts and Kenworths came pre wired with antennas on them. I didn't seem to ever get much range with them. I found that a lot of the time the coax cables were either loose on the antenna mounts or not connected at all from the factory. So, rather than take apart a new truck. I just ran my own Francis antenna and mounted it up on the hydraulic cooling fan mount in front of the mixer drum. The antenna tip would end up about 12 feet off of the ground. I used to tell the other drivers that the drum acts like a satellite dish when asked about range. Not really but it sounded good at the time. Hooked up to one of my LTD 29's? I could get excellent range with that setup. I do not want to put an antenna on the roof. I don't want any more holes than necessary. Plus, It is already tall enough. I thought about a mirror mount. But, that would be blocked by the sides if I put a single one on I think (tell me if I am wrong). I even thought about a 102" antenna mounted on the rear bumper. But, thinking that would be blocked by the body as well. So, I am open for antenna suggestions as well. I have been Looking at the President Bill 3 radio. I think that would fit where I want it. Open for suggestions in that size configuration. Thanks again Pat
 

niceguy71

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it's going to be interesting to see what you come up with for an antenna... hopefully someone can come up with a suggestion of something somewhat workable??
I think your only option is the mirror mount and without metal under the antenna I don't see it going more than a couple miles.... I see all the new fiberglass Semi Trucks with an antenna on the mirror and most seem to get just over two miles.... the drivers tell me it's enough to talk to the loaders in the yard or the warehouse shipper.... at least on the big trucks there is a massive steel frame and massive diesel engine that seems to help with radiating a CB signal........but to me, I wouldn't waste my time for two or three miles.

I'm sure the president Bill 3 would be fine as it has the new NRC technology which is a total game changer.... but at $185???

SSB is a whole different world and VERY fun ...... really not "needed" but nice to have
with my SSB radio in my F-150 I can easily talk all across the country on a daily basis... it's fun to see where your signal will land.... I am in Massachusetts and some day's I hit Florida or Canada or California, Oregon, Washington,... I always hit Colorado as they are so high up.... so it's very cool saying I talked to 30 different guys 3000 miles away today..... if I am talking locally after the skip has died down I have talked 38 miles away on SSB to another Radio Reference user here in a Toyota pick-up click blue link to see it talking on SSB to a Radio Reference user for 38 miles

if you're going to buy such a tiny radio.... before you buy take a look at the Radioddity CS 47 it can easily be modified to put out 8 watts on AM and 15 watts on FM.... it is the size of the Bill 3 but all the controls and display are on the mic.... so you can mount it under the seat or behind the seat and buy an RJ-45 Cat 6 extension cable so you can plug in the extension cable into the CB box and run it near the dash and then mount the mic on the dash.. it has a huge display so if you mount the Mic up high you can see the signal strength meter as you drive... I put one in my friends Jeep and we mounted the mic up high on the dash so as he drives he can easily see that big beautiful display..... we have talked 14.8 miles from my base station to his jeep on AM as he drives to or from my house we can do much further on FM... VERY nice little CB and it's only $85 bucks
click link ----> Radioddity CS-47 on Amazon

this is my review of the Radioddity CS-47... it took a LOT... and I mean a lot to get used to the menu driven radio instead of the knobs of a normal CB... but after a week I really liked it... my reviews are not very good... Mower Junkie did a nice review on it here Mower Junkie review watch to the end to see the mod and the power and extra channels after the mod.

my review
 

EAFrizzle

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A Hustler fold-down mast and coil of the right sizes will work great as a bumper mount. Radiating section can be clear of the rooftop and still have low clearance while in use.

Don't let the short whip of the Hustler coil fool you; they do just fine local and DX.
 

slowmover

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IMG_0174.jpeg

IMG_0173.jpeg

1988 Coachmen Leprechaun Class C

Cab, and forward would be my preference for an antenna.

A forty year old Moho isn’t my idea of a cross-continent traveler. Too many “old” small parts hard to find (no big deal a day or three from home). Ergo, fairly familiar territory inside travel radius.

Minnesota and Upper Midwest isn’t overrrun by invaders despite presence in cities. Generally rule-obeying on roads and plenty of good CB operators.

No winter travel.

Hard to beat PRESIDENT brand. In which the small-case non-SSB favorite would be the Harrison.


VOL & SQ are enough for panel controls
(Menu items are set & forget).

IMG_0175.jpeg

Has Weather Alert.

A). Add DRIVER EXTREME DRX-901 Speaker.
B). MAGNETIC MIC or GEARKEEPER Mic Holder.
C). Can easily add a KL203 someday if desired.

— 12V Power from BATT, fused is the mobile norm. NEG to closest frame ground (shortest length); unfused.

A cutaway chassis ain’t quite a van or pickup. You’ll want to consider how to wire it for campground use. The inverter is basically a power supply. Be able to use radio for NWS, AM on road, or FM for campground & private channels.

The external speaker recommended is phenomenal. With the circuitry of these new radios it’ll be an experience outside what you previously thought CB capable.

.
 
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RFI-EMI-GUY

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Some of the people we know call it the "Aluminum Room".
If the roof is aluminum as well, the obvious high performance solution is an NMO mount center of the roof and a Larsen NMO-27 base loaded whip. But that is going to add 53 inches to your height and I don't know how that works out to your RV's overall height. You can spring mount the whip (you cut the whip about 6 inch shorter) but you still need to avoid slamming the lower 2/3 of the whip into obstructions. An option is to get a foldover or remove the whip while in transit (Do you have a roof ladder?). You can always install a second antenna mount on the cab somewhere and add an A/B switch for best of both worlds.
 

slowmover

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If the roof is aluminum as well, the obvious high performance solution is an NMO mount center of the roof and a Larsen NMO-27 base loaded whip. But that is going to add 53 inches to your height and I don't know how that works out to your RV's overall height. You can spring mount the whip (you cut the whip about 6 inch shorter) but you still need to avoid slamming the lower 2/3 of the whip into obstructions. An option is to get a foldover or remove the whip while in transit (Do you have a roof ladder?). You can always install a second antenna mount on the cab somewhere and add an A/B switch for best of both worlds.

10’-11” stated.

NMO-27 really would be great if roof is metal.
Add SpringB to whip.

The 11” is probably the A/C unit.
(Get measurement).

I’d go for it at 14’ TTL. The spring will certainly save the whip. National municipal codes wants trees trimmed to 15’ clearance.

I run 14’ on big truck, nationally. Only New England is a problem. I never hear a thing at 68+ on old Interstate and 13’5” posted.

This would then be a real radio.

Driver, NMO Mounts don’t leak.
It’s what’s used on LEO, Fire, EMS, etc.

Is there a light fixture in ceiling above bed above cab? There’s your path.

.
 

RFI-EMI-GUY

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if you're looking for a on the road CB for the RV... getting an antenna on a RV is not going to perform very well at all... so don't waste a lot of money on the CB.
On the road even 3 miles will give you some situational awareness when the traffic starts slowing up. I would not give up on that aspect of a CB on the road. You would have choices to take the next exit and get coffee or make lane change decisions. In the OP's case he may need two different antennas, one that just works down the road and a second option for DX from the camp site.
 

K9KLC

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I’d be tempted by a 102” on the front bumper. No strong recommendation, but I do know that antenna gets closest to 14’ TTL and is 7’ tall is the mobile ideal. A quarterwave whip is an RV’er classic
It's what I did on the 28 footer of exactly the same RV the op mentioned, back "in the day". I tried several other methods and nothing really worked as well as the 1/2 wave on the front bumper. Next would have been when we did it on the ladder rack bringing it down just enough to clear 14' with a somewhat (I forget maybe 5 or 6 foot francis?) which did work but truthfully the 1/4 wave on the front bumper worked better.
 

slowmover

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It's what I did on the 28 footer of exactly the same RV the op mentioned, back "in the day". I tried several other methods and nothing really worked as well as the 1/2 wave on the front bumper. Next would have been when we did it on the ladder rack bringing it down just enough to clear 14' with a somewhat (I forget maybe 5 or 6 foot francis?) which did work but truthfully the 1/4 wave on the front bumper worked better.

I edited that post as I realized I hadn’t considered a metal roof (rare today). An NMO-27 he can leave it alone once installed. Will last as long as that Moho cares to go.

Not in the way of checking a Ford engine (hoping it’ll last😘)

That full roof groundplane will truly have him in business. Every other location not good given body in the way.

If it’s metal.

.
 

slowmover

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On the road even 3 miles will give you some situational awareness when the traffic starts slowing up. I would not give up on that aspect of a CB on the road. You would have choices to take the next exit and get coffee or make lane change decisions. In the OP's case he may need two different antennas, one that just works down the road and a second option for DX from the camp site.

Yes. A mile or two is insufficient. Pile/ups of a half-dozen or more vehicles used to be rare. Not any more. Need 3-5/miles or more as average.

Small front disc and rear drum ain’t anyone’s friend with a Moho.

One can toodle along at 62-MPH and suddenly the lane fills with fools. On home ground we know where it’ll happen . . far from home it’s not predictable the same way.

NMO is basically easier to install, too.



.
 

niceguy71

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I googled .....what is the roof material on a 1988 Coachmen Leprechaun Class... and Google said it is most likely Aluminum.

if it is aluminum the Larsen NMO-27 is one of the best CB antenna's... as stated above all the police and fire use similar Larsen antennas and they just simply WORK! and last for years and years.

if you could install one in the middle of the roof.... all that aluminum would give a fantastic ground plane and you would get incredible range!!! INCREDIBLE! ... imagine the antenna being up 11 feet off the ground.!!!

it's about 55 inches tall so I think it's do-able.... you will have to drill a hole they have an O-Ring and never leak if you can get it on a flat surface... so it's a really nice install.....you need to have room under the roof to connect the coax ... but if the roof is aluminum it would be awesome... if you can get that antenna way up high on that roof I would try to get a SSB radio as it would work great and be a lot of fun.

Larsen NMO 27

the coax for NMO

NMO cap

how to install the NMO mount video below...
.... try to put it in the middle of the roof... you can unscrew the antenna and screw on a little NMO cap when not in use.... or going under heavy trees in a camp ground... so " if possible" if you could get it near a ladder where you could reach it... or if there is a vent inside of the camper that you can remove the vent screen and step up on a stool and reach your hand through the vent and remove the antenna if you needed to would be very nice.

 

K9KLC

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I edited that post as I realized I hadn’t considered a metal roof (rare today). An NMO-27 he can leave it alone once installed. Will last as long as that Moho cares to go.

Not in the way of checking a Ford engine (hoping it’ll last😘)

That full roof groundplane will truly have him in business. Every other location not good given body in the way.

If it’s metal.

.
Ya, that wasn't an option back when I was running mine, it was a family RV, and I was not the primary owner. My MIL at the time flat vetoed anything thru the roof or believe me, it would have been there. Often was under the hood and I simply unscrewed the whip when it was in the way. Seems like for not the primary owner, I sure did a lot (read as most all) the work on the thing.
 

N529B

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It is a 1988 Coachmen Leprechaun Class C, It is built on a Ford E-350 Chassis. I bought it from the original owner. It just turned over 16 thousand actual miles. It has never sat outside when not being used.

Do you have the mechanical skills to perform your own vehicle repairs? I often see discussions on another forum I’m on about purchasing older, low-mileage Corvettes that have been stored for extended periods. Regular driving is important to prevent issues such as dried seals and gaskets, moisture buildup that can lead to rust in the engine and exhaust, and fuel degrading into varnish buildup. With an RV, you will be doubling down on other specific systems, too.

I purchased a 1988 Corvette 15 years ago. The State where it was located had an annual inspection mandate, so the Carfax report recorded annual mileage of 5-6k. A good sweet spot for an older vehicle.

If you do not plan to handle maintenance yourself, it may be challenging to find a shop with the necessary diagnostic tools and expertise for Ford’s OBD1, as these mechanics are aging out.
 
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