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Window Mount Antenna's

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KG5HHS

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Hello All,
I have just installed a 100Watt GE Ericsson Orion UHF (440-470) radio that will be used to MONITOR business/Interoperability channels, but will be TRANSMITTING on the 70cm Amateur Radio Band. I already have an NMO antenna installed on the roof of my 2010 ford explorer and do not want to add another on to the roof due to interference. I would only have about 11-12 inches between the two antenna's and from what I understand, would not be enough to isolate interference between the two. I am thinking about Installing a window mount antenna in the back window. I was hoping to get some input on what ya'lls opinions are about these antenna's and also if anyone has another source to purchase them since "The AntennaFarm" has closed.
 

teufler

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The rear window, if you have heater elements that most cars have, not an optimum position. Inductive coupling antenna designs are like an unnatural act., I think , since you have not installed the antenna yet, a fender mount, right angle bracket , like many ambulance supervisors or some fire captains use. You would mount opposite fender from you vehicle am/fm antenna.
Trunk Body Hood Right Angle 1/2" Stainless Antenna Mounting Bracket - NEW | eBay
this is from Ebay, you would use a nmo coax assy.
 

prcguy

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I don't think you will get far enough away to eliminate potential interference, but the further the better for affecting radiation patterns and reducing the chance of damage. Years ago I used an Antenna Specialists colinear glass mount UHF antenna with a 50w radio and it worked quite well.

Knowing a little more these days I would now run a few turns of the coax through a #43 mix clamp on ferrite bead near the antenna as there is little to keep RF off the coax with these types of antennas.
prcguy
 

mass-man

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Researching and thinking the same thing for myself. From what I have read, I doubt a window mount could handle a 100w radio...

just sayin....
 

KG5HHS

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Just to clarify I would be putting it on the rear left side window, no heat element. I have thought about the fender mount but don't really like the way they look personally. I don't know that I would always transmit at 100watts. I plan on programming it to have a 50watt low zone and a 100watt hi zone. I'm not very familiar with those radios and don't know how low they can go as far as wattage but I can hit most repeaters with a handheld in my house so I know there's no real need for 100watts. I plan on using this particular radio for storm spotting out in the county.
 

mmckenna

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I used a Larsen KG-450 (I think) for a few years on my wife's car.

50 watt UHF radio, worked well enough.

The heater elements are not the only issue, some tinted glass uses a metal film that can interfere with operation.

There is a KG-440 that's suitable for the amateur bands. Claims it's good to 100 watts, but I'd still recommend throttling back the RF power if you can.
Action Communications: Larsen 440 - 460 Mhz, Glass Mount 2 dBi Antenna with PL259 Connector
 

jonwienke

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As has been said already, tinting and heating elements will ruin the performance of a glass-mount antenna. Performance will generally fall between ugh and meh; adequate, but easily surpassed by a better mount design. I wouldn't use one for more than 50W, regardless of the antenna rating. And +1 on coiling your excess coax next to the mount to choke out RF radiating from the coax shield.
 

mass-man

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One more thing....due to the design details for a thru glass antenna the whip is 15 inches in length. NOT the short stick you expect for UHF!

.
 

lmrtek

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I've used the Larsen on glass antennas for decades without issues
at 50 watt power levels
 

KG5HHS

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The more I read and think, The more I don't think I want to do the whole window mount thing. As stated before I would only have about 11-12 inches between the two antenna's. I currently have a 5/8wave VHF antenna for the 110watt Motorola. what would the issue be if I placed a UHF 1/4wave antenna for the 100watt Orion radio?
 

jonwienke

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You'd have interference between the antennas for sure (high SWR and altered radiation patterns), and when you key up the 110W radio there is a significant chance you could damage the other radio.
 
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Why not replace your VHF antenna with a quality dual-band VHF/UHF antenna with a diplexer split to the two radios? Years ago I had two Motorola X9000 radios 110W each with a dual band antenna and diplexer, worked fine no problems.
 

KG5HHS

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Why not replace your VHF antenna with a quality dual-band VHF/UHF antenna with a diplexer split to the two radios? Years ago I had two Motorola X9000 radios 110W each with a dual band antenna and diplexer, worked fine no problems.
That's wouldn't be a bad idea! I currently have the control heads installed up front in a havis console, and the radio units in the very back. Is there such a product that could be placed in the rear where the two antenna connections are and a switch that could be mounted up front? The only ones I see are just one unit, I can't picture in my head that this could be a "nice/neat" set up.
 

jonwienke

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If you're using a diplexer, you don't need an antenna switch, as long as one radio is UHF and the other is VHF. The signals will be sent to the antenna, and not to the opposite radio, automatically.
 

KG5HHS

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would these also be refered to as "Duplexer's"? I googled "Diplexers" but the only thing coming up is duplexers. I found this OPEK DU-500UF - VHF/UHF Indoor Duplexer DU500
if this is correct, would I just hook the VHF Radio to the VHF side, The UHF radio to the UHF side, and the Dual band antenna to the remaining connection and just talk away? Will this device detect the band by it self and shut off the other radio so it wont interfere with it?
 

jonwienke

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if this is correct, would I just hook the VHF Radio to the VHF side, The UHF radio to the UHF side, and the Dual band antenna to the remaining connection and just talk away? Will this device detect the band by it self and shut off the other radio so it wont interfere with it?
Yes. Except that the device uses a set of passive filters to route the signals, as opposed to switches.
 
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