wiring question

[beastchug]

does any body have a picture of a properly soldered pl259 connector on the coax. I want to make sure that i did mine properly. I just ordered an swr meter to check the antenna, but i have a feeling that my connection is not the best it could be. If i can get a chance i will post a picture of what mine looks like.

 

[k3cfc]

does any body have a picture of a properly soldered pl259 connector on the coax. I want to make sure that i did mine properly. I just ordered an swr meter to check the antenna, but i have a feeling that my connection is not the best it could be. If i can get a chance i will post a picture of what mine looks like.

The easiest for you is YouTube type in search install pl 259


there several videos on this

Good luck K3CFC

 

[JayMojave]

Hello Beastchug: Yeah look at the U-Tube, and Google for videos and diagrams for soldering the PL-259 connectors.

Also suggest you get a hand full for pratice! Get the expensive type the Silver Plated, with the Teflon Insulator.
This is a help in the soldering process. The Nickle Plated PL-259 Connectors can be a real pain in the a$$.

You will need a approx 100 watt soldering Iron. I have a 100 watt soldering Iron with the tip filled down with a little nub on the side that will fit thru the PL-259 holes, while the flat part of the soldering Iron will rest on the PL-259 body, this transfers the most heat quickly. You want to get on the PL-259 body to solder the 4 ea holes one at a time. Get on with the soldering iron then get off after making your solder joint. I have the coax lightly held in a Vice so that I have a straight down access to the soldering holes. And the PL-259 connector is level.

Also a help is using a Chin Saw sharping file, a narrow round file, and filling the 4 holes cross ways making a small valley above the holes, allowing the solder to stick to more of the connector body, and it seems to make it easier to solder.

Some coaxes like LMR 400 will not take a lot of heat, as to much heat will melt the inner insulator and possible short out the PL-259. Again pratice makes perfect.

I wish I had a dime for every time some has said "Heah I had the PL-259 Connectors resoldered" and now I am up and running. Just for your information, many old timers can't solder the PL-259 connectors.

Good luck.

Jay in the Mojave

 

[k3cfc]

Hello Beastchug: Yeah look at the U-Tube, and Google for videos and diagrams for soldering the PL-259 connectors.

Also suggest you get a hand full for pratice! Get the expensive type the Silver Plated, with the Teflon Insulator.
This is a help in the soldering process. The Nickle Plated PL-259 Connectors can be a real pain in the a$$.

You will need a approx 100 watt soldering Iron. I have a 100 watt soldering Iron with the tip filled down with a little nub on the side that will fit thru the PL-259 holes, while the flat part of the soldering Iron will rest on the PL-259 body, this transfers the most heat quickly. You want to get on the PL-259 body to solder the 4 ea holes one at a time. Get on with the soldering iron then get off after making your solder joint. I have the coax lightly held in a Vice so that I have a straight down access to the soldering holes. And the PL-259 connector is level.

Also a help is using a Chin Saw sharping file, a narrow round file, and filling the 4 holes cross ways making a small valley above the holes, allowing the solder to stick to more of the connector body, and it seems to make it easier to solder.

Some coaxes like LMR 400 will not take a lot of heat, as to much heat will melt the inner insulator and possible short out the PL-259. Again pratice makes perfect.

I wish I had a dime for every time some has said "Heah I had the PL-259 Connectors resoldered" and now I am up and running. Just for your information, many old timers can't solder the PL-259 connectors.

Good luck.

Jay in the Mojave

You can tell him all day long but until he sees how it's done it will still be a problem for him. now do not use the expensive ones to practice use the cheaper ones then use the good ones for your final install.

 

[QwKiE]

What I can tell you for your protection, after you make a cable use a multi meter and test between ground and the center post so you have no conection not hooked up, if the meter moves then you are shorted out and can blow the radio when you key up.

 

[JayMojave]

Yeah what CFC and QwKIE said:

The real problem is finding a real 100 watt soldering Iron, as they are not as popular as there were once. Do a internet search, and get a few extra tips.

I have seen some soldering irons at the TRW swap meet near the LA Air port.

Jay in the Mojave

 

[k3cfc]

I just looked ebay has a boat load of them. and as far as tips you can fabricate one from a piece of 12 gauge house wire i do this all the time;

 

[62Truck]

Also a volt ohm meter will come in handy too for checking for shorts. Take the meter put it ohm ohm mode put the probes together to test the meter then place the probes on the connector one on the center pin and the other in the area where you solder the braid if you see "OL" (depending on meter) you're good if you see numbers then you have a short.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[k3cfc]

Also a volt ohm meter will come in handy too for checking for shorts. Take the meter put it ohm ohm mode put the probes together to test the meter then place the probes on the connector one on the center pin and the other in the area where you solder the braid if you see "OL" (depending on meter) you're good if you see numbers then you have a short.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have done this before also. if you find you have a short instead of redoing the job try this. use a high amp power supply and hook it up center pin and shell if you have just a wire from the braid it will incinerate and your home free. a friend of mine had a short in a mobile mount and i did this there was a flash and now all systems are a go lol. on the pl 259 thing ill share what an old ham showed me ( passed now ) he had a device like a drill press. he put the adapter in it spun it while using emery cloth to take the nickel plating off the side and the bottom.then tinned it with a torch flux and solder then wipe it with a wet rag. then use a rifler file for the holes and then a drill bit to counter sink the top edge just enough to solder. you wouldn't beleive what a nice job this does. this was waaaay before teflon and silver plating. this guy held a commercial license and was nick named the bug man because he was just that good.

K3CFC

 

[LtDoc]

What you are doing, the whole idea, is to transfer enough heat to melt solder without melting anything else. There are several ways of doing that IF you are careful enough (experience, learning the 'tricks'). I've found that a torch can be used for PL-250s IF! you are careful. It's certainly not 'fool-proof' and takes some practice, but it's 'doable'. No, I'm not recommending that you do it that way, it's just an option.
- 'Doc

 

[k3cfc]

What you are doing, the whole idea, is to transfer enough heat to melt solder without melting anything else. There are several ways of doing that IF you are careful enough (experience, learning the 'tricks'). I've found that a torch can be used for PL-250s IF! you are careful. It's certainly not 'fool-proof' and takes some practice, but it's 'doable'. No, I'm not recommending that you do it that way, it's just an option.
- 'Doc

Well it is a well known fact that if you tin the parts first it is much easier to solder things together. i have done this for many years. bug man was a good teacher and i tend to listen to the ones that know.


K3CFC