• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

XTL5000 Dash To Remote Instructions.

Status
Not open for further replies.

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
Hello,
I am attempting to convert a Dash Mount XTL5000 to a Remote Mount, I have all the proper cables and CHIB/TIB, but when I put everything together the control head won't turn on. I can read the radio from the deck, but the control head does not power on at all (The control head is hooked up to power). Is there something that has to be done in CPS? I looked on here and other sites, but was unable to find an answer. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank You
 

wgbecks

Active Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
1,206
Reaction score
462
Location
NE Wisconsin
You shouldn't have to do anything special in CPS when migrating from the Dash Mount to the Remote Mount provided you're extending
the same type control head, have the correct CHIB/TIB, and flex's. Do you have power on both the "Red" and "Yellow" power wires
to the back of the control head? BTW, what control head are you using?
 

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
You shouldn't have to do anything special in CPS when migrating from the Dash Mount to the Remote Mount provided you're extending
the same type control head, have the correct CHIB/TIB, and flex's. Do you have power on both the "Red" and "Yellow" power wires
to the back of the control head? BTW, what control head are you using?
I am using an O5 head. I have power to both the red and yellow cables, I know the brick is on because the fan on my power supply turns on, but nothing on the control head.
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
Check the ground for your head. Also check and make sure the data cable is secured to the brick and the head and that they are in the right ports.

I know you said the brick is hooked up to power but the brick may not be telling the control head to turn on. Easy fix in CPS. I'm assuming you have tried to manually turn the head on by pressing the power button on the head?
 

fineshot1

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2004
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
22
Location
NJ USA (Republic of NJ)
The transceiver brick should always have 13.8VDC to it and the CH should have below:
Yellow - Ignition 13.8VDC at power up time.
Red - 13.8VDC always
Black - always connected to vehicle ground.
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
The transceiver brick should always have 13.8VDC to it and the CH should have below:
Yellow - Ignition 13.8VDC at power up time.
Red - 13.8VDC always
Black - always connected to vehicle ground.

That's a stretch. Not every vehicle is going to be 13.8v. 12.6 would be the minimum. Also, unless your vehicle is hooked up to shore power when not in use, leaving the control head and brick "hot" all the time will lead to battery drainage over long periods of time. In this case, a simple relay will allow the ignition to turn everything on as needed and apply the appropriate power where needed.
 

fineshot1

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2004
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
22
Location
NJ USA (Republic of NJ)
That's a stretch. Not every vehicle is going to be 13.8v. 12.6 would be the minimum. Also, unless your vehicle is hooked up to shore power when not in use, leaving the control head and brick "hot" all the time will lead to battery drainage over long periods of time. In this case, a simple relay will allow the ignition to turn everything on as needed and apply the appropriate power where needed.
I work with a community fleet of these radios and NEVER had any vehicle with a drained battery with the above
connections i said above and some of these vehicles have sat for a week or so with NEVER a drained battery,
and I also measured the transceiver current drain to about 11 milliamps so go back under your rock and stop
propagating wrong information.
 

W9WSS

Retired LEO
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 19, 2002
Messages
1,193
Reaction score
723
Location
Woodridge, DuPage County, IL USA
I wanted to mention that I have numerous mobile radios in my 2009 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor purchased from a dealer in 2013. All the radios were professionally mounted, wired, and antennas connected to NMO mounts drilled into the roof and trunk lid. I had most of the radios connected to +13.9VDC (or should I say +12 volts DC) with relays to kill the voltage when the ignition key is turned off. Four of the radios, all Motorola:

110 Watt UHF Astro Spectra
110 Watt VHF Astro Spectra
45 Watt VHF XPR4550 DMR/Analog
40 Watt UHF XPR4550 DMR/Analog

.....were wired directly to the battery and grounded appropriately to a common ground bus.

Here's what happened until recently. I went through four replacement batteries over a period of six years. Two of them were Optima yellow-top heavy-duty batteries, and the other two were the highest amperage extra heavy-duty DuraLast (Auto-Zone's branded store batteries). I had a 3 amp trickle charger attached to the battery when parked in my garage, so the voltage would be constant and fully charged (or what I believed to be). My mechanic changed the batteries when my car failed to start, even with the "floating" charger attached whenever the car was parked in my garage.

In October of 2020, the mechanic/installer discovered that even though all the radios were turned off, I had a constant drain of approximately 1.5 to 2.0 amps when the car was not running. There was no reason why that should be, as the car's computer didn't pull anywhere that amount of amperage when the car was off. To make a very long story somewhat shorter, he disconnected every radio that was permanently connected to the battery, and the drain was negligible. He deployed relays to activate these leads to the battery when it was started. Since this very intense modification of the radios' power connections, I had had a negligible drain on the latest installed battery in the vehicle (less than 15 milliamps) when the car was turned off. The current battery is working to its specifications, never failing to start the car. I no longer use or need the charger to sit on the battery when it's in the garage.

I also wanted to mention that I have not lost any memories in the four above-mentioned Motorola radios that were previously connected directly to the battery. All four radios work flawlessly, with no memory or settings loss.

Luckily the previous batteries were under warranty, so that was not a monetary loss to me. Because it took a week for the installer to completely re-wire all the "A-leads" from direct connection to the battery, now going through relays activating power to the radios. The relays provide +12VDC from the battery. The only things attached to ignition power are the relays in the new configuration. Of course, every radio has the proper fuses on each "A" lead and has given me maximum performance with all the radios and, of course, the operating of the car with no issues.

CVPI HTHSC.JPG
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
I work with a community fleet of these radios and NEVER had any vehicle with a drained battery with the above
connections i said above and some of these vehicles have sat for a week or so with NEVER a drained battery,
and I also measured the transceiver current drain to about 11 milliamps so go back under your rock and stop
propagating wrong information.
Lighten upman. The “stretch” that I’m referring to is thinking every vehicle will be at 13.8 volts. That’s not true. The radios will operate just fine at 12.6. Telling him he has to have 13.8 is propagating false information.
As far as the fleet of radios you work with.....good for you. Be proud of yourself for having the only fleet of radios that doesn’t drain batteries. I’m gonna say those vehicles you maintain probably have master battery switches too.
I’m not saying you’re information is wrong. What you’re suggesting doesn’t work for everyone in every situation.
 

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
Check the ground for your head. Also check and make sure the data cable is secured to the brick and the head and that they are in the right ports.

I know you said the brick is hooked up to power but the brick may not be telling the control head to turn on. Easy fix in CPS. I'm assuming you have tried to manually turn the head on by pressing the power button on the head?
That may be the issue, I made sure the cables are all properly connected, but I haven't changed anything in CPS. I did try pushing the power button, got nothing. I also tried doing this on another unit and got the same result. Where in CPS does this need to be done?
Thanks
 

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
Forgot to mention, I recently upgraded the firmware on these 2 units and I remember the CPS giving an option to select dash or remote configuration. Should I try to upgrade the firmware again and select remote configuration, or should it work regardless?
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
That may be the issue, I made sure the cables are all properly connected, but I haven't changed anything in CPS. I did try pushing the power button, got nothing. I also tried doing this on another unit and got the same result. Where in CPS does this need to be done?
Thanks
It will be an ignition sense setting. It may be looking for the ignition source to come from the accessory cable on the brick. It’s hard to say. It could be any one of a number of things.
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
Forgot to mention, I recently upgraded the firmware on these 2 units and I remember the CPS giving an option to select dash or remote configuration. Should I try to upgrade the firmware again and select remote configuration, or should it work regardless?
[/QUOT[/QUOTE

It shouldn’t matter as long as you’re using the correct TIB and flex cable on the brick.
And just to confirm, you are using an O5 or XTL5000 head and not an M5 head? I’m also wondering if the O5 head has been modified to be an M5 for an XTL2500.
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
Forgot to mention, I recently upgraded the firmware on these 2 units and I remember the CPS giving an option to select dash or remote configuration. Should I try to upgrade the firmware again and select remote configuration, or should it work regardless?
If the head is working properly you should at least see “Remote Device Maintenance Mode” if it’s not connected to the brick.
 

fineshot1

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2004
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
22
Location
NJ USA (Republic of NJ)
Lighten upman. The “stretch” that I’m referring to is thinking every vehicle will be at 13.8 volts. That’s not true. The radios will operate just fine at 12.6. Telling him he has to have 13.8 is propagating false information.
As far as the fleet of radios you work with.....good for you. Be proud of yourself for having the only fleet of radios that doesn’t drain batteries. I’m gonna say those vehicles you maintain probably have master battery switches too.
I’m not saying you’re information is wrong. What you’re suggesting doesn’t work for everyone in every situation.
If you want me to "Lighten up" then knock off the RR expert routine and if you would bother to read the XTL5000 installation manual
you will learn that every connection I highlighted above is correct and the motorola recommended way to hookup an XTL5000 and
the cps ignition parameter should be set for "soft power off" so that either ignition or the power button can both be used to
power up or turn off the radio.
 

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
The brick seems fine, but I am unable to power on the head, I've tried 2 heads and 2 CHIBs, I connected the red and yellow wires to positive and black to neg on my power supply and I can't get either head to turn on, am I doing something wrong?
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
If you want me to "Lighten up" then knock off the RR expert routine and if you would bother to read the XTL5000 installation manual
you will learn that every connection I highlighted above is correct and the motorola recommended way to hookup an XTL5000 and
the cps ignition parameter should be set for "soft power off" so that either ignition or the power button can both be used to
power up or turn off the radio.
It seems to me that YOU are the one being the expert on here. Go check your community fleet for battery drain.
 

clbsquared

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Messages
1,060
Reaction score
622
Location
Isle of Wight County
The brick seems fine, but I am unable to power on the head, I've tried 2 heads and 2 CHIBs, I connected the red and yellow wires to positive and black to neg on my power supply and I can't get either head to turn on, am I doing something wrong?
If it worked on the brick in dash mount and it won’t work in remote mount, then it would seem you have a cable problem. Make sure the flex cable is seated correctly in your CHIB.
 

APX8000XE

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
46
Reaction score
4
Location
Classified
If it worked on the brick in dash mount and it won’t work in remote mount, then it would seem you have a cable problem. Make sure the flex cable is seated correctly in your CHIB.
I made sure everything was seated properly, is it possible the CHIB and flex I have are too new? I read somewhere that older heads require a different CHIB and flex. The heads are from 2006 and 2008.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top